Paul_L's Connoisseur 4F build

Discussion in 'Kits, Kit bashes & Scratch builds' started by paul_l, May 27, 2020.

  1. Torry

    Torry Full Member

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  2. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Cheers Torry, I think I have something similar in the shed from my son's cycling stuff, I wil investigate further.

    My intensions currently are to clean and polish the wheels and axles then coat with Birchwood Casey Perma Gun Blue
    as per my driving wheels, although for the axles an alternative is to heat the axle to 200c to 300c then drop into a jar of oil and allow to cool. Then spray with WD40 dry PTFE lubricant.

    Paul
     
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  3. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Happily making models Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    I must admit that's what I do with axles and buffer heads and pretty much anything else made of steel which doesn't have anything that will melt....
     
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  4. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Coupling rods it is

    Now Murphy must have gone out, for my Chassis2Pro jig I have the 3/16th short and long pins, the 1/8th short and long pins, and a set of 2mm long pins. The etched holes in the coupling rods are a nominal 2mm - so fitting the 2mm pins allowed me to set up the coupling rods.

    I fitted the 2mm pins and inverted the guides so that they will support the coupling rods



    Tested the rods fitted


    Then cut some 6mm MDF to act as a sacrificial base


    I will tin both sides of the middle layer then sweat the layers together.

    Paul
     
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  5. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    And the photos ...... :scratchchin:

    Not saying I dont believe you ..... or looking to start a conspiracy theory or anything. How can you expect glory with no photos. :facepalm:

    Toto
     
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  6. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    O ye of little faith

    Center lamination was tinned both sides and then all three layers sweated together - ok so I forgot to take that picture

    For the rod with pivot pin, again center layer tinned both sides up to the pivot pin. The brass rod was used to keep all lined up and the layer sweated together. Finally the brass rod was soldered in place.


    The rod was trimmed flush on the back side. The boss added to the pivot pin then trimmed to size. The remaining bosses added and we have


    Now repeat for other side - probably after dog has been excercised.

    Paul
     
  7. Walkingthedog

    Walkingthedog Full Member

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    I’ve got the photos.
     
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  8. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    I did finish the other coupling rods but then spent the rest of my time on Toto's chassis.

    Next step was to ream out the coupling rod holes to accept the bushes, and fit the crank pins onto the wheels.


    I also blackened the axles by heating the axle untill turns blue, then dunking into an oil bath - in my case a jam jar half filled with vegtable oil.

    Next up to re-assemble the rolling chassis and check for free running - fingers crossed

    Paul
     
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  9. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    I have every faith oh humble one...... :avatar:
     
  10. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Although I've been busy on Toto's tender for the past few days, I have managed to re-assemble the chassis, and fettle the rods so it's now ready for running in. Well once I get some replacement 12ba nuts and washers - guess who lost 1 of each - who knew when you run the chassis backward and forwards to check for tight spots the nuts unscrewed - well I do now :facepalm:.

    Paul
     
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  11. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    Oops!! :facepalm:
     
  12. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Next stage is to remove the coupling rods - I just got em working :facepalm:

    Then fit the brakes, brake hangers, sandboxes and pipes then the brake linkages.
    Fit balance weights to the wheels then paint the chassis, before fitting pickups and motor (oops I fitted the motor 18 months ago - Ah well the practice will do me good :whatever:).

    Sounds like a good job for tomorrow.

    Paul
     
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  13. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Mmmmmmmm ......... this all rings a bell. :scratchchin:

    Enjoy.
     
  14. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Stripped the coupling rods and started on the brakes.


    From left to right Brake hanger brackets, same folded, completed brake hanger and shoe, and finally the individual brake shoe and hanger.

    I intend to use Slaters plunger pickups, and according to the instructions Jim recommends painting the chassis before fitting the plunger pickups. This will involve fitting the securing brake gear in place, before painting, and I'm struggling to see how I can remove and re-fit the wheels and fit the plunger pickups.


    I will re-read Yorkies 4F thread to see what he did.

    Paul
     
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  15. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Looks like Yorkie had similar concerns, post 124

    but got away with it post 146

    So will plod on and keep my fingers crossed, but will have a look at Rob's suggestion of using 14BA screws to locate the brake gear, allowing them to be removed

    Paul
     
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  16. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    I remember just before stopping the build that I was querying how to do this. I think the removable solution may be best in the long run. Depends how complicated it is. I'll be watching this with interest as I will be returning to this very issue soon.

    Toto
     
  17. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Ok back to work

    Toto had been in contact with Jim, as he was facing the same quandry, and Jim the sage's advice, it's tight, but make sure the Slaters plunger bodies fit in the holes before fitting the brake and saning gear. Assemble the plunger pickups before fitting and insert the wire through the frame using it to help guide the pickup body.

    So full speed ahead with the brakes

    Sorry forgot to take pickies



    Now onto the sandbox assemblies

    Each whitemetal casting needed minimal cleaning, but do require a hole drilling to take the fixing peg for the sanding pipe.


    The fixing peg needs drilling to take take the sanding pipe made from 0.9mm brass wire


    Note the 2.6mm hole to the left of the fixing peg, this was used to hold the peg during soldering of the wire.



    Then fitted to the sandbox.

    The wire then bent to shape - left slightly too long at the moment they will be trimmed one the loco is re-assembled.


    Now for the other side

    Paul
     
  18. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Nicely done Paul. It's all coming together. Hell ...... it may even run. :faint:
     
  19. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Now that's a bit optimistic, I'll aim for holding together, then I'll worry about running :avatar:
     
  20. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    Paul I'm posting up a couple more pics on my 4F build thread showing how I did the pick up arrangement and sand pipes if this helps.:thumbs:
     
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