Going back a few years, I purchased a box of Atlas HO scale power poles. They looked okay and I put them aside for when I needed them. Now I need the poles, I pulled the box out and thought to myself, 'these look a tad too small...' I jumped online and googled power poles, most notably power poles around the Miami area where I'm basing my layout on. I found out that the average power pole is 35' high and the Atlas poles are 28' high, less once planted into the scenery after the base is removed. I will post up a comparison photograph at the end of this thread. With me being an avid Boomer Dioramas fan (you tube and well worth viewing his channel), I watched his video on power pole construction and took on board his techniques. This may seem like a long winded and photo heavy thread, but the end results are worth it if you follow the building instructions. Okay, so where do you start, what do you need ?? Evergreen styrene is my go to material for the build of the poles. I love the stuff and it can be readily available at all good hobby stores. Here is a selection of Evergreen styrene I use. Use the number at the top left as a guide for purchasing. I may have missed some packets in this shot, but these are the bulk of the styrene required. Oh yes, you will also need some cotton and of course your preferred glue (MEK). Alright, lets get started... 1. Take the 4mm diameter tube (#225) and cut to correct length. I cut these to 123mm (35' HO scale). Use a coarse bread knife, hack saw or a razor saw to stress the tube, giving it a wood grain finish. You may need to run some fine sand paper over this once done to remove any burrs and styrene threads. This is the result... A 0.7mm diameter hole needs to be drilled through the tube, 6mm from the top. 2. The two (2) top cross arms. Use the 2.0 x 2.5mm styrene strip (#165) for this. I stress the whole 14" length in one go and cut the arms from this. These measure 35mm (10'). Drill three holes using a 0.7mm drill bit, approximately 2mm from each end and one directly in the middle. I stack the two pieces on top of each other so the holes line up correctly. 3. Now you have your two cross arms, it is time to mount them. Using the 0.64mm styrene rod (#219), feed a length through the one cross arm, the the pole (previously drilled hole) and then feed on the second cross arm. 4. Use the cigarette lighter to form a mushroom head on one end of the 0.64mm rod. This can be done by moving the flame up to the rod and allowing the heat to expand the styrene. 5. Take a piece of .015" (0.4mm) styrene sheet and drill several holes into this. Then take a spade bit and cut little square washes for the 'bolt' securing the cross arm to the pole. 6. Slide the washes onto the bolt (0,64mm styrene rod) and secure the lot together with MEK or your choice of glue. 7. Repeat step 3, 4 & 6 for the outer holes on the cross arm. This is how it should look. EDIT. I missed writing above about finishing the bolts off. Trim the bolts to 1.5mm outside the washer after it has cured and use the cigarette lighter to mushroom the end, forming the 'nut'. 8. The cross arms require some bracing and I use 1.5mm angle for this (#291). I always over cut the length approximately 16mm in length. You will require four of these. One side of the angle needs to be notched out. This will aid in fitting to the cross arm. 9. Fit the braces at 45* to the pole with the notched out sections behind the cross arm. I glue one in place and the trim the end off at the pole, allowing enough angle to run past the centre of the pole. The second piece needs to be measured out again to allow it to fit against the piece already installed. This is how they look. Once the first side is complete and cured, turn the pole over and complete the other cross arm. End of Part 1 (photo limit)... Cheers, Gary.