Whilst visiting my favourite retailer of choice, Casula Hobbies, the owner asked if it was possible for me to replace the pesky three link coupling on five locomotives for him. Why ? The locomotives have been sitting in the display case for over 12 months and had not moved, no interests as the couplings are not the thing that most modellers down under want or require. So, the locomotives I had to replace are as follows : 4F, Class 20, Class 24 and 2 x Class 42 Warships. This photo I recently posted on Instagram shows the works in progress... This thread is about the Warships in particular as these locomotives required more work than that of the 4F, Class 20 and Class 24. As can be seen in this photo, the Warship is fitted with the three links, associated detail (Vacuum pipes etc) and the lower skirt. The original coupler (tension lock) had been cut off the bogie frame, so I had to come up with a reliable method for attaching the Kadees. The required bits and pieces required for the job is as follows : 1.5mm drill bit and pin vice small flat file scalpel razor saw Dremel or similar with a cutting/grinding disk 4.8mm x 3.2mm styrene strip (evergreen styrene #188) 0.5mm thick styrene MEK Kadee Screws (#1649), Kadee nuts (#1640) Kadee coupler (#141 Long Underset - for the couplers only) Kadee coupler (#252 Snap together insulated gear box - for the draft box only) As can be seen in this photo below, there is not a lot of room between the bogie side frame and the front skirt. So, onto the first task of removing the three link couplers. These were feed through the locating hole on the buffer beam and bent around and secured inn place with CA. By twisting the hook bar back to almost straight and grasping the hook with a pair of pliers, these came out with a little force added. The next task was to remove the lower skirt which had been glued in by the previous owner. With the use of a scalpel, and some gentle flexing (being careful not to snap and pipe detail), this came away reasonably easy enough. Take the 4.8 x 3.2mm styrene and make two mounting blocks for the Kadees. Drill a hole right in the middle of the 4.8mm wide side of the strip. Cut and file these so that the hole is approximately 1mm from the leading edge. This is now glued in place on the lower plastic chassis, lining the drilled hole up with the original hole for the three link. Allow this to cure before drill through the lower plastic chassis. To be continued...
Moving right along... Now this is all in place, a coupler box from Kadee #252 and coupler from Kadee #141 need to be snapped together. There are two raised sections on the main body of the coupler box which need to be removed. This comparison photo shows this clearly. Once the coupler has bee snapped together, the width of the box is taken and transferred to the model and a section of plastic is cut and filed out of the buffer beam. The amount need to be removed is approximately 9mm wide and down to the height of the fixed in styrene block. Note that one of the pipes (hoses) has been removed. Cut two small washers from the 0,5mm styrene sheet and drill a 1.5mm hole through this. Take one of the Kadee screws (#1649) and feed (screw) it through the makeshift washer first, then through the coupler (which is loose) and then through the styrene block and chassis. Screw on the nut (#1640) and tighten down. A small amount of CA can be applied to stop the screw from loosening off. This photo is from the maroon Warship. Next step is to take the lower skirt and using the razor saw, remove approximately 1mm of material from each side of the opening and down to the 'faint' mould line shown on this piece. The line can be seen just above the centre hole in the skirt. Do not cut down no further than this. A scalpel will do most of the removal of material and file can clean the area up making it nice and square. Comparison photo prior to a little fettling with the file. Once cleaned up, the lower skirt should be test fitted to make sure it sits in nice and snug. Some more filing may be required and possibly the removal of a little more plasticon the rear of the skirt to allow the head of the screw to sit in behind the skirt. The metal chassis also needs to be modified to allow the screw and nut to sit comfortably. Take the Dremel or similar and remove a section of the chassis as shown in the photo below. Always cut/grind out less, stop, check and if need be, grind away again. There is a lump of metal on the top side of the chassis that will also require a small amountn of material to be removed. When you have removed enough material, screw the metal chassis back to the lower plastic chassis/valance of the locomotive, then refit the body. The pipe that had come adrift earlier simply needs to be re-attached by drilling a new 1.5mm hole beside the newly installed coupler box. A spot of CA from behind will ensure this does not come out. With everything back in place, the loco now complete with Kadees doesn't look too bad at all. The height the Kadees are mounted complies with the Kadee height gauge standard. Here is a photo of the Warship coupled to a Bachmann Alco S4. This loco is now ready for service, or I really should say to be placed back in the display shelf for a quick sale ! Cheers, Gary.
Oh yes, a big thank you to Gormo who had come to the rescue to supply me with two screws. The maroon Warship was missing the screws that attach the lower chassis/valance to the metal chassis/motor mount. Thanks Gormo ! Cheers, Gary.
