Discussion in 'Tools' started by Toto, Jul 9, 2019.
Not really .... just as it comes.
and ........ the first results from mould one .....
one full mould after the third attempt ( heating the mould up )
and out of the mould ........
detail retained but a little flash to clear up ....
and more ......
and exhaust ports ......
full suite of parts ......
and the last one.
Mould two is cooking as we speak and should be out the oven shortly. It will take a few hours to cool down though before it can be opened. May get the photos up later.
Great work Toto... that looks an impressive result
I'm having to wait a bit longer before trying to crack open the second mould. Its the longest part of the process waiting for the can to cool down enough to enable the mould to be separated. Hopefully get the rest of the 24 and 25 moulds done next weekend.
And mould two is off the boil and stripped down ready to have its gates cut in.
and here we are .....
and the other half ....
This could be touch and go as the cab fronts have elements of the mould which go very deep. A smidgeon off coming through the other side. On hindsight I should have tried to take the depth of the part a bit more evenly between the two halves.
the proof will be in the spinning. They may burn through quite quickly. it may on the other hand be ok.
time will tell.
Now ....... to get ready for the return to work tomorrow.
cheers for now.
All very interesting stuff...
A steep learning curve but with reasonable success so far. I dare say there will be a few wasted moulds along the way but that's the nature of the besst. I am enjoying this so far. Just as well really as I'm in baw deep now.
I suppose its pretty much like anything else a few wasted moulds reflect the cost of learning the trade which is all a part of the initial investment. We've all done that in building kits. I remember the first 7mm wagon I ever built was a Parkside Tube wagon which rocked on a flat surface, the culprit was an axle bearing keep which I'd put in upside down, the kit maker didn't explain very well that the bearing cup hole was offset from centre. Just one of the tricks of the trade I had to learn for myself, the wagon by the way is beyond useless as it consistently derails over point even with weight added.
Good start there Toto. Good to see the exhaust ports are turning out nicely they'll make a great accesory kit once the etch bits are added.
I've been there done that mate, so I removed the offending axle, cut the pin point ends off and made a rocking cradle for the axle. It works a treat with 3 point compensation.
What an excellent solution Pete... I'd never have thought of that. What was your rocking cradle like? Sorry Toto for bombing on your thread.
No worries ..... we're all interested. we like solutions here so let's share em.
This vulcaniser will pay for itself no worries. I can see the average loco requiring around 7 or 8 moulds as there are some big pieces to be cast and you may only get 4 pieces to a mould.
Experience so far tells me a max of two moulds per day due to cooling / curing times giving 4 per weekend. I'm considering a second vulcaniser but once the initial volume of moulds have been done .... they would be semi redundant until a new kit is introduced ......
I guess its all down to the lead in times for introducing any new kit onto market which will dictate how quickly moulds need to be produced, I think completing four moulds over a weekend is very good going indeed and probably a similar chore such as ballasting track, good relief when its done and working. I think its a great thing you are doing Toto and many modelers will be grateful for your products.
I hope so. It's a sair fecht.
I will dig it out and take some photos mate, its easier than trying to explain.
Back on the mould making trail .....
laying out the parts which consist of cab floors, radiator housings and cab fronts evenly around the mould.
a fresh silicone rubber dosc ready to fit into the can.
and in it goes. Both the can and the rubber disc have been coated in the french chalk release agaent to prevent them from sticking to one another
then the steel core is pushed firmly into the centre of the silicone disc.
Then I start to lay the pieces in place and push them into the mould to create an indent.
I took the parts back out and cur some material out of the indent to make the part fit in a bit better. The silicone when " cooking " will run into the voids and define the detail.
all the parts have been fitted onto the mould and are ready to go.
registration studs are then pushed into the mould randomly which will ensure that when the mould has cured and is taken apart, it will only be possible to fit it back together one way providing perfect alignment between the two mould halves.
the upper half of the mould is now to be prepped by adding some french chalk top and bottom
then cutting out the premarked centre piece to fit over the steel core piece.
just like that. The silicone rubber is pressed evenly around the whole of the mould in order to help the upper disc make its intial impression of the top of the parts. prior to being
driven home when the outter can is screwed down.
some french chalk added prior to fitting the upper can to the lower.
and thats it. Now in the cooker at 90 degrees for two hours.
Meanwhile ........ the next mould is being prepared with its parts prior to the vulcanising can becoming available once the first mould has cooked and has cooled down sufficiently enough to enable the release of the newly formed mould. This usually takes about three to four hours after the cooking process has completed.