Steve Beattie kit NBL Class 21 build

Discussion in 'Workshop Benches' started by York Paul, Aug 17, 2018.

  1. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Slowly but surely, a class 21 is emerging. ..... and it's looking great. :thumbs:
     
  2. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    Thanks Toto for that, I'd just say that the cab area now has total strength and there are still more etches in the form of beading to add yet not to mention the castings and the bottom skirt fairing.
     
  3. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Yep, but the unmistakable window and roof profile is there. One of the main elements that characterises the class. It's beginning to take on an identity. ....... and I'm jealous. :avatar:
     
  4. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    It will look better still when the gutter strips go on... this will make a sharp edge from the front dome back over the side windows and door to a point just short of the top edge curve to the roof on the bodyside.
     
  5. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Hi York Paul,

    Going back a stage to the green putty. I take it the whole white metal cast has had a skim of thus stuff and it's taken right up to all the surrounding brass interfaces. This will then be merged to integrate into the brass. So you really do have to create the final shape by sanding and judgement?
    The white metal is just an approximate starting place.

    It could take a few passes with the putty sanding and filling to achieve the finished profile.

    Toto
     
  6. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    That seems to be the case Toto, the white metal dome piece looks to be a former, unless I have fitted it incorrectly to the front roof panel on that rebate and when the front roof panel is positioned as it should be (as per the D6122 colour picture) on the cab walls, the dome casting needs to be fillered. Also the front roof panel seems to overhang the windows too much so I've now filed it back to within 0.25mm of the cab sides, I'll then add in a thin strip of etch which will start above the quarter light and extend back over the cab door and onto the body sidewall by 2mm, this strip will end exactly where the back edge of the rear roof panel locates onto the main body roof. I will make a diagram to explain the in pictures but again just study Tom Curtis's picture of D6122 to see what I mean.

    Now back to the cast dome piece, yes the forward slope from the window etch is carried up at the same angle to the arc with Green Putty, then the top surface all the way across its arc is brought in with Green Putty, once dry these surfaces are smoothed with wet and dry and the "rounded edge" can then be fashioned. This process is a lot like when I was making sculpture at Wolverhampton Uni... time spent burning late night oil making small masters before building the investment mould for casting, that's why I said earlier its just like making a piece of art. All this process may well take several passes with the spatula knife in order to get the correct shape but then I know how good the loco will look when finished with care and effort. :thumbup:
     
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  7. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    Two 1833 motors from Taff Vale arrived in the post this morning, not bad considering I only ordered them the day before yesterday... £35 inc postage for the pair and I can vouch these run as quite as a church mouse and are very receptive , equally as good as the original Mashima motors. The Delrin sets also came but I haven't shown them, now we just need the worm and gears.

     
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  8. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    So that's the gearbox and worm drive sets ordered from Roxey who say they will put them in the post this afternoon :thumbs:, I've gone for a 20:1 ratio on the 3'7" bogie wheels for this loco, I'll probably swap the 26:1 set from the Class 24 and put those on the Clayton when I build that and then stick with 20:1 gearing on the rest of the Sulzer kits I'm building. Happy days ahead me thinks... we're cooking on gas now.:D;)
     
  9. Keith M

    Keith M Staff Member Moderator

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    Don't hold your breath ordering from 'Markits' Paul. Last lot I ordered from them (Q Class Wheelsets) turned into an almighty c*ck-up. Firstly, I (wrongly) assumed that I'd ordered wheelsets, ie 3 pairs of wheels, my fault, but when only 3 wheels arrived, I realised I'd 'goofed' so promptly ordered another 3 plus a few other bits. A month later when nothing had arrived, I sent an enquiry and received a sort of apology and the statement that they'd been sitting in front of a red hot furnace for the last few weeks, casting new wheels, so hadn't done any despatches (Seems a curious way to run a business!). I was assured that the items would be in the post 1st Class, and indeed they were, only problem was that although they were the same diameter wheels, they were for a different (LMS not SR) loco and the crankpin centres were several mm out. On contacting them, I was told that I'd had the last few wheels previously, but strangely enough, on posting the incorrect wheels back, the correct ones crossed in the post, so someone was telling me 'porkies' I think. As a result of this, and having spoken to a few traders who sell 'Markits' stuff and also often have to wait 6 weeks or more for delivery, I've decided that I will not build any more models which use only 'Markits' wheels etc, as I've had enough of the 'Bullsh*t and excuses from them, can't fault the quality, but indifference to customers has put me off for good!
    Keith.
     
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  10. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    Oh dear Keith, sorry to hear about your unfortunate experience, are Markits the same as Roxey Mouldings then? To be honest I was never impressed with Markits and at the time I was making those 4mm kits I had the similar nonsense played to me over the wheelsets for the C12, same old same old... we have run out and are casting new ones in the next few weeks, again another repetative violin concerto off the same hymn sheet from Southeastern Finecast who I understand have similar trading links. However I've dealt with Roxey a few times before and their stuff always arrives quite quickly and the chap I speak to is always very helpful. We shall see but thanks for the heads up over Markits Keith :thumbs:
     
  11. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Happily making models Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    Hi Both,

    Although Roxey do stock some Markits items in their Range Roxey is owned by Dave Hammersley who is a thoroughly nice gent.

    I have always had great service from Dave whether in person or mail order.

    I did have similar experiences to Keith from Markits back when I modelled in 4mm however so he hasn't changed much over the years...
     
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  12. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    Yes that's the chaps name... I just called him Dave, he's always incredibly helpful with advice and his products always arrive very quickly so I will happily recommend his business.
     
  13. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    I've now got a reasonably complete final shape for the cab roof which involved some etch filing and gutter strips adding to make the profile which needed a skimming of filler before wet and drying with fine flatting paper. I decided that Green Putty is best used as a stopper or fine filler and to gain the initial profile I needed something better, this came in the form of Cuprinol Two Pack Woodfil which basically is a fine grade Isopon compound that sticks like the proverbial Shh One Tee to a blanket :avatar:, much better than car body filler which tends to "rub" off on brass I think. So the main pass with the Cuprinol Woodfil and then left to cure properly over night.


    Then starting with the roof arc I carefully made the contour shape and then flatting back the front in the same way I then profiled the curve onto the roof.


    Note the cab roof strip now fitted and the inserts for the boiler filler port and smaller vent. Now I know this method works I shall build up the other cab in the same way then add in the side window frames, grab rail pockets and door furniture before fitting the blunt noses which I'll drill out for the marker lights which will be 2mm LED's.

     
    Last edited: Sep 22, 2018
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  14. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    First class job. York Paul. You gave really captured the profile well.
     
  15. Timbersurf

    Timbersurf

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    Interesting nugget about the grab of wood filler vs body filler. I will have to try some on plastic as my little tube of HUMBROL MODEL FILLER is not as good as I would like!
     
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  16. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    Thanks Toto, its onwards and upwards now I know how the cab builds up. Once all the etch soldering is complete I'll add the blunt noses and fit lighting with DCC Concepts resistor boards to avoid glare, the buffer beam casting needs profiling on the sides with a swage fanning down to the base curve of the fairing skirt.
     
  17. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    Yes I came across that by chance TimberSurf, I was scratching the crossing house out of Plasticard and needed some body filler, all I had in the workshop was Cuprinol Woodfil so I mixed some up using a piece of scrap etch plate as a spatula, the Woodfil dried solid and after a play around sanding back the etch I noticed that it didn't peal like Isopon P60 did... so I gave that product its P45 and converted to Cuprinol.:avatar: Seriously it really works and with a nice warm room temperature and only a small dab of hardener you can sand it back to virtually zero without pealing. :thumbs:
     
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  18. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    Now here is the almost compulsory pose picture that has become associated with these diesel builds, the blunt nose helping to finish the cab front, also the buffer beam which needs drilling and the side profiling to the shape of a Class 21, the hydraulic version Class 22 had a slightly different almost straight looking front valance profile.

     
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  19. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    It's nearly over the line York Paul. Absolutely fantastic.
     
  20. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    I'm looking at the join between the white metal frontage and the surrounding brass interfaces. Will you flood the gaps with solder then use a bit more putty to finish off and sculpt the final lines with it ? Same as the roof and side window joints.

    Quite tricky to get a nice straight, crisp finish on that. It could take a couple of passes just filling and sanding. I'm sure you'll get the result though. I'm assuming the top edge of the skirt fits in behind the bottom edge of the front face so it's set back a little ?

    Cheers

    Toto
     

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