Talerddig - micro layout

Well I watched the video and it went straight over my head - I think I'm wiring-dyslexic!

I'm at the point (no pun intended!) where I've read so much stuff, and watched loads of YouTube tutorials that I'm going around in circles and it's making me reluctant to lay my track!

I guess what I need to know is how can I wire my layout in the simplest possible way. I get thst I'll need two power feeds because the points don't face the same way. I still want to incorporate:

* Point motors
* 2 isolated sections (platform headshunt and end of siding)

The frog polarity stuff - can I just ignore it and accept slightly less good operation in exchange for easy wiring?

If so, do I leave the small wires underneath uncut? Do I remove the wire attached to the frog?

I guess what I'm asking is can I link the switch and stock rails for better contact but ignore the frog switching bits or do both have to be done together to work?

Sorry for all the questions, the scenic and stock stuff doesn't pose me any concerns, it's just this wiring lark - I know that this is a really simple layout and you're probably wondering why im so confused but I just don't get it at all!
Matt

 

Hi all,

As a diversion from thinking about wires and soldering I thought I'd turn 360° and work on a building!

Now this may or may not find it's way onto the layout but it's a pleasant little project in any case.

While browsing through some old magazines, I came across an article in the April 2011 Railway Modeller about Royal Oak/Muston crossing boxes. Now I know the prototype was a crossing box and not a signal box, but the cogs in my mind started whirring and I thought "there's a small box suitable for a micro layout".

Here's where I'm up to so far. All construction is in plastic sheet with SE Finecast embossed sheet for the brickwork.

Windows will have to be constructed using plastic strip once the walls are finished.






The rear wall is slightly out of square at present but that'll be rectified when I attach the rear wall.

Thanks for looking

Matt

 

One has become two!

I enjoyed the CCT detailing project so much that when another became available for a bargain price I snapped it up!

This'll have exactly the same work done to it - I've already 80% completed the underframe mods. My original intention was to replace the w-irons with brass ones but the chassis has so many lumps and bumps underneath that interfere with the installation of new w-irons - and removing said lumps and bumps weakens the integrity of the chassis - that I decided to revert to my plan b and use left over kit parts grafted on to the solebars. The white bits you may be able to see are slivers of plastic sheet to reinforce areas!



I'm also about to start a fresh stock project - two Dapol (ex Airfix) 35T tanks and give them a bit of work along the way. I'll post more later once I've started.

Now, baby bath time...

Matt

 

The penultimate day of my paternity leave didn't go to plan, modelling wise anyway!

I did manage to grab some time between walks, nappy changing and general household chores though.

My modelling is very on/off. When "off", months can go by with little or no activity. At the moment, I'm constantly flitting from project to project. I find this keeps me interested when the enthusiasm is flowing as it stops me getting bogged down in one task.

One thing I've realised with my "in progress" layout is I am not going to be able to run 10 coach express trains. Freight trains are going to be limited to 2 - 3 wagons. With this in mind I'm trying to focus on projects that I can work on when the urge arises, safe in the knowledge that I don't have to repeat the process 40 times which, as above, will help with the old motivation.

I've had 2 of these retro Dapol tanker kits for a while. My excuse for running them will be that there is an oil depot "somewhere" on the line and trains need to come to Talerddig to run around. The tweaks I'm going to make to them are:

*Replace the wheels
*Add 3 link couplings
*Replace buffers
*Replace ladders
*Refine some details under the solebars

First up I added bearings into the axleboxes. This meant that I had to pack out the solebars at the attachment points using slivers of plastic sheet to give me a bit more width to accommodate the wheels.


The two tank halves have no tabs to help with alignment so again I've used some scrap plastic sheet for this.



With some weight added inside the barrel the chassis is commendably free running considering the age of the kit.

You'll also notice I've used plastic rod to plug the holes on the side of the barrel - not yet trimmed.

And that's as far as I got!

Thanks for looking in!

Matt

 

I saw something like that in one of the magazines several years ago - I seem to remember they drilled a hole then filled the barrel with kitchen/bathroom sealent.

My method is far simpler and old skool (and illegal!) - I use 2p's! I find that 8p worth is the ideal amount in an item of freight stock. Conveniently, the barrel is exactly the same diameter as a 2p! Just don't tell anyone!

Matt

 

Am I better off looking into changing my Gaugemaster items for Peco motors and switches do you think?

Matt

 

Interesting! What are people's opinions of the Peco switches? I've read some reports of them not being too reliable but obviously have no experience of them myself.

Today's tanker progress:

I've used various pieces of plastic rod to add some additional detail to the solebars and chassis. This is only a representation, I'm not the type of person to get hung up over total accuracy!

The buffers are 51L products and add a bit of refinement compared to the kit ones.





Matt

 

As an alternative to the Peco switches, would the Gaugemaster GM500 be suitable?

Gary: the buffers make a huge difference. They're fiddly to assemble - meant to be sprung but I couldn't be bothered faffing so settled for gluing them instead. Fitting 3 link couplings is proving to be a challenge too because of the way the underframe goes together. You may be able to make out in the photo above that I've had to cut a groove right through with a razor saw to accommodate the hook.

Matt

 

More tanker progress.

I've filled the holes in the sides and also along the top where the join is less than perfect, but it is a 40 year old mould!

I've also added the small handle visible in photos which is represented by a blob of plastic on the kit.



Oh, and don't tell the Queen!



Matt

 

Hi all,

As ever, progress and enthusiasm has dipped now I'm back in work but I have found time to add the brake levers which are a combination of kit and Parkside parts grafted together. You'll also notice some strategically placed discs of plastic - not prototypical but to hide rough spots!





The spots of filler on the tank also need sanding down!

Matt