Torry’s 2022 Loco Competition Entry

Was going to wait the arrival of a new kit that I’d ordered to start this thread but looks like it’s still a few more weeks away. So here we go with a Gladiator SR Schools Class loco as an alternative.
I’m quite familiar with the class so I shouldn’t need too much research but really need to go through the instructions as I’ve never built a Gladiator kit before, although the kit was originally a North Star design. If the quality of the etches are the same quality as the attention to detail of the packaging I’ll be happy. They also include a DVD showing various build details, nice touch but as I don’t have a DVD player it’s unfortunately not much use. I think a USB dongle would have been better.
The picture shows the kit contents straight out of the box. I haven’t opened the tissue paper covering the etches as yet, reason being as soon as they get exposed in the open they tarnish quickly. But you will obviously see them as the build progresses.
I already have the Slaters wheels but haven’t decided on the motor/gearbox as yet.
Any questions during the build please ask away.
Regards
Bob (Torry)

 

Nice clean N/S chassis etches. This is where I'll make a start.
Sorry about the flash reflection.

 

Main weapons will be:
Ersa RDS 80 Soldering iron.
Resistance Soldering Unit (LRM)
145/179/100 or 70 degree Solder.
Various bending forming tools.
Proxxon Drill.

 

Part One: The Loco Chassis

Thought I would make a start and prep the Schools chassis now my poppies box has arrived. The box is the large version but it’s still going to be a bit tight as it only goes up to a 10’ wheel base and the Schools has, you guessed it, a 10’ WB. Still we’re see how we go when I get round to fitting the hornblocks.
The Hornblocks are Slaters, which I’ve already made up. I’ll be fitting them to all four wheels and all will be eventually sprung, but only after the chassis is painted. My backs playing up at the moment and the last thing I want is to spend hours under the bench looking for the latest escapees.
The coupling and connecting rods are made up. Although they are fine as is and look the part, I’m still undecided whether to use them or not? In the past I’ve always gone for Premier rods with my builds - when available that is - as I like the solid milled look. We’re see how we go once the motor/gearbox arrives. I can finally decide and get started before I start the gardening.
Pick up will be live frame with the loco picking up on one rail and the tender the other through the wheels.
Driving wheels are now blackened and fitted with 10BA crank pins. Bushes are also tapped 10BA.
Any questions please ask.
Cheers for now.

 

I know what you’re saying about shorting out Slaters Wheels Rob. In the past I’ve used wire down the back of the spokes. I’ve even used phosphorus strip soldered to a axle spacer. All work fine with standard wheels providing you’re quick with the iron. But this time I’m going to use a conductive paint. Reason being is the wheels I’m using are profiled to S7 standard and there’s not a lot of meat left on the back to start cutting groves. Possible, as people do it in P4 and S7 all the time but I don’t want to chance it.
I have used conductive paint in the past quite successfully and seems to work okay in a limited capacity. The advantage with the paint is it’s very easy to do all the wheels. Once covered in a thin coat of varnish and then painted over it looks good. The only downside I can think off is the long term durability.
I’ll be using this as I have in the past. (Other types available).
https://cpc.farnell.com/kemo-electronic/l100/conductive-silver/dp/PC02496

 

I've now managed to put the basic chassis together and tempory fitted the wheels to check the free running and levels. All found to be good. I'll fit the coupling rods I've ordered from Premier when they finally get here, but they seem to be taking awhile to arrive.
The firebox is also been fitted. The laminated springs can be made removable and provison is made for the modeller to do this if required, but I have'nt bothered as I'm using Slaters wheels so It's just a matter of removing the wheel.
Had to do a bit of surgery to the rear hornblocks as the MSC motor/gearbox I'd ordered didn't fit, but all's well now.
The brake hanger supports are just wire. I normally like to use screws instead, but felt the chassis wasn't rigid enough as is, I'm sure this will improve when it comes to fitting the motion brackets etc.
Still have to fit the castings and rear boogie splashers and brakes etc to the frames before I can start on the cylinders/motion, but it's a start.

 

Can’t comment on the old Hornby’s as I’ve no experience but the current (no pun) method of live frame pick up is more reliable and preferred by many modeller’s nowadays when building tender locos, especially with the super detail kits now available with comprehensive inner frame detail. Providing you take care and use a insulated drawbar there shouldn’t be many problems. I have heard though that some people have had trouble when using DCC. Apparently the chips can burn out if they’re not properly insulated.
In the past to combat potential problems, I’ve used a plastic primer when it comes to painting the model that’s also suitable for use on non ferrous metals which seems to work well, even with a cellulose top coat.

 

Yeah Rob but the end result is definitely worth it.

 

Been a little quite at the mo as still trying to sort out the fence damage caused by the recent storms so haven’t had much chance or enthusiasm to get near the workbench. Premier rods finally arrived after a month waiting which for them is unusual. Few bits a pieces on order from Eileen’s so hopefully should be able to crack on with the Schools soon. In the mean time just enjoying the excellent detail work Robs putting in on his Princess build.