This topic of using neodymium magnets (rare earth magnets) for uncoupling Kadee couplers has been covered on every forum under the sun, not to mention on youtube. This method I have chosen is possibly the easiest of all methods around. You can even install the magnets in ballasted track ! I'm using this method on Jack's HO scale shunting plank 'Jay Dubyew North Yard' : http://www.platform1mrc.com/view_topic.php?id=632&forum_id=7 First up, the video of the uncoupling in action... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AOnJn_px0JE Ok, the easy bit, the installation. Mark out where the magnets will be placed. I put a few wagons on the siding and left enough space to be able to shunt back, about 50-60mm. Make sure you mark them where the wagons will not foul any rolling stock in other sidings. I then marked 3 lines and highlighted the area in all sidings. Using a 3mm diameter drill bit, drill 6 holes on the inside edge of the rails. In the pic below, I shone a torch up from underneath. I then placed a piece of tape on the underside of the baseboard. The magnets I used are cheap as chips, if not cheaper ! Ten magnets for $1.29 and free delivery is good value. I ended up buying ten packs. One Kadee 308 under track magnet retails for around $9.00 in Australia. http://www.ebay.com/itm/170885974581?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649 Installing the magnets is easy. Squeeze a small amount of PVA or superglue into the predrilled hole. The tape underneath stops the glue from leaking out. Using the string of magnets as a handle, place magnets in as shown below. Doing it this way makes it an easy task. If using superglue, these will set fairly quickly, PVA takes a little longer. The finishing height of the magnets should be just below the height of the sleepers. Install one side first, then turn the string of magnets over (up-side-down) so that there are opposite poles on either side, then proceed to glue in the next three. There you go, job done. It's simple, cheap and it works a treat ! Cheers, Gary.
Hi Gary, I've had a quick peak through the post and it looks great. How you got away with posting on Christmas Day ......... Well ....... That might make a great how to as well. Good to see Jacks layout coming on. Enjoy what's left of Christmas Day over in Oz. Toto
Toto wrote: I think the pic I posted up in the Ç'mon then.., Who got what' explains how I managed to post a thread on Christmas day ! Cheers, Gary.
A neat method Gary - different to the process I use as described in YMR and if I may so so, your method is easier coz trying to get five 3mm cubes in a row is a tight fit between plastic sleepers base is a real PITA.
You're right there Sol. I used the method that Perry, yourself and others devised on YMRC, but I found this method as a simpler solution. I also like this method as it is easier to retrofit into a ballasted track with very little mess and really no need to ballast over. Cheers, Gary.
Brilliant, simple and easy to retro fit! I have been using the Kadee #334 between the rails units for years and never liked them although they work well and also easily seen (by all). I now have 10 packs on order. Thanks for a great Christmas idea. Peter PS Thanks to Ron for posting on the BRMA Forum.
Sol wrote: Doesn't work, don't think the magnetic field is large enough as the 3mm cube magnets are that much smaller. Couplings just move very slightly, nowhere near enough to uncouple. Cubes will work in rows of five, but the round ones look to be much easier to fit. Noted for future reference Ed
Magnets arrived today. Set up the first as per Gary's notes and it works very well. I found that by placing the magnets about 2mm from the rail gave better results. It took me about 10 minutes to install 5 sets in my Colliery Sidings. All I have to is paint the magnets to match the ballast and no-one will know the difference. Thanks again Gary.
Great news. So does this mean there'll be a plethora of Kadee #334 uncoupling magnets on ebay...? Cheers, Gary.
Any ideas for mounting in styrene sub roadbed? Got me a little stumped. Thinking about using 3mm MDF to create an insert under the track to hold them securely. Reidy
Can I ask how deep the styrene sub road bed is ? If the sub base is atleast 8-10mm deep, it shouldn't be an issue gluing the magnets in. I would also recommend drilling and gluing the red magnets first (see diagram), followed by the green position, after the glue has dried on the first two, ie atleast 24 hours. The blue and yellow magnets can be positioned last, leaving 24 hours between positioning. The top of the magnets should be sleeper height. I used neat PVA for this purpose. Remember you can do all magnet locations on your layout over four days or nights. If you attempt to glue all six magnets at once, they will want to pull out of position as they are attracted to the other magnets. Cheers, Gary.
I've used 50mm styrene as the base board essentially. It's been more trouble than it's worth in hindsight though. Had delusions of grandeur being able to sculpt out the foam for depressions below track height. That's all very well, but getting the wire in tube point control right has been a chore. Now this is extremely annoying. Drilling the styrene doesn't work so well... but wait! Idea: the tip of the soldering iron. I'll get back to you! Reidy
Thanks Paul. I might have to look into some flat ones. I bought the cylindrical ones that Gary used in his demo without putting enough thought into it. Reidy
