Here's today's victim, one of a rake of 11 minerals I have to weather up. So I decided to have a play with a new paint and technique which took the model from this condition............... to this condition in less than 30 mins work...................................... No spray gun required, just a couple of brushes and two types of paints............ (I've only done the body work in the this experiment). So what do you think ? Do you prefer Clean ? , Dirty? is it to dirty? Do you prefer the left hand panel or the right hand panel?............ You will not offend me, so lets have your comments good or bad and If I need to adjust things then Ill give them ago for you and reveal how and what products were used. Kim
Kimbo Definitely a massive improvement! I found doing the streaky sides with pastels, IPA and a brush it worked really nicely to come back with a 'soft' brush and very lightly dust all over the streaks to try to get rid of the stroke marks once dry. What method did you use? What commodity is this wagon carrying? Reidy
The 16T minerals look good Kim, in the weathered condition I think you need a mix of treatments and degrees of decay The right side pannel I like the rust patch starting etc You can also have a few not long from overhaul ie lightly weathered to brighten things up. Another tutorial for you, looks like its a nice and easy method with just the 2 paints and a couple of brushes
I like the overall result. The right hand panel with the rust worked in looks the better to me. It's very convincing. I think it's good to go. The other wagons could be done the same but to varying degrees. A good job. Toto
Very good Kimbo mine are in the post, may be the light, but to me could do with a little more rust red, added to the muck mix. Paul
I like where this is going. The weathered wagon looks good and I think that the degree of weathering is different on all wagons, so the amount you choose to apply is up to you. More weathering one end as opposed to the other would be quite common I would imagine. I'm guessing you have used a texture paint similar to the Tamiya products to get the raised effects. Maybe a few washes of orange/brown rust will high light the wagons heavily weathered areas a little more. One technique I wish to try is using the heat off a soldering iron to put 'stretch marks' (dents) into the side panel of open wagons. Cheers, Gary.
Not tried it (yet) but I wonder rather than using a soldering iron, trying a hot melt gun and glue, there are some lower temp hot melt glues and guns which may be a bit kinder to the under lying plastic model. Paul
I like the right side weathered -- but just my choice - I think a clean one would stand out to much now, after seeing the weathered one- I must stop looking at all these fantastic models of every one - -- so much to do already -- regards Dave
Thanks for all the responses and comments http://www.click There's a lot more to do so any ideas you throw at me I will try out and I'm hoping it will give some of you the confidence to have a go (but please try it out on a cheap wagon first) So 1st prize to Gary, spot on mate. The "New" paint for me, is from the Games workshop range, Citadel, technical paints - "Typhus corrosion" just love the names they use on their paints. Its a textured paint. When I get time I will do a video, but basically I painted the model with the texture paint paying attention to all the corners and recesses. Don't use a good brush. Once this was dry (with the help of a hair dryer) The model was then painted with an Acrylic "Raw Umber" neat again once this was dry, I then used a thinners to wet the panels and remove most of the paint affect leaving areas where I wanted a build up of "crud" For centre panel rust patches just run the thinners around a slightly larger section than required and then when using the Brush / cotton buds to wipe off the excess you can reduce the size and shape of the patch to your requirements. So after the above you are left with this. Now this is the right hand panel on the wagon in the original pictures which was photographed before any further work carried out on it, as correctly pointed out by Reidy [size=in his comment the brush strokes need attending to. So after the model had ][/size]dried for 24 hours i then set about "refining" the effect, firstly using a cotton brush and flat paint brush dampened with thinners. Carefully wet the area and then remove the paint effect where required. [size= ][/size] After a few minutes work this is how this same panel ended up. Its now ready for further treatment which will be .........???? (to be decided, suggestions please ) As Paul has commented adding a red rust effect will be another detailing to apply Left hand panel before...... left hand panel after clean up with a little bit of decal removal to hopefully represent some chipping and a final shot of the wagon "finished" at this stage Gary[/u] the idea of taking a soldering iron or hot air gun to add stretch marks /dents is a good one but just gives me a slight twinge in the "manly department" when the models cost so much. (the above paint treatment is fully reversible) But I might man up one day and give it a go Feel free to send me a wagon to have a go on I'm with you on that one Whizzo, nothing should be clean and out of the box, especially mineral wagons.Chris / Toto, hopefully by the end of this project they will all be at varying levels of "grottyness", no clean ones for me......... OK over to you guys.....what treatment next ? Lets have some more feedback and discussion. Kim
Gee Kimbo, I thought I was going to win this wagon..., of course after you have dented it with the soldering iron... Cheers, Gary.
Hi kim , regarding the soldering iron - some one tried that on an LGB wagon over here but the distortion did not look right , and at £40+ ouch other people have tried a flame pencil iron - I think it will be lots of practice on scrap plastic first just my thoughts kim // but where you have got to with the weathering - looks great - regards Dave
If you wanted to warp the wagon can I suggest sending it up to the guy I bought the Q1 from. He managed to warp most panels without too much problem.
