WH Davis PAA hopper wagon build.

Discussion in 'Kits, Kit bashes & Scratch builds' started by Andy_Sollis, Apr 29, 2019.

  1. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    I thought it about time after all the brief photos to actually put together what I have to do to create the sand wagons from scratch (this is not focusing on the CAD side, more the modelling side post printing) using the chassis and hopper from the Hornby PGA model.

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    Here we have the original model. There are a number of liveries to choose from but I seem to have found the Tarmac and Yeomans are the most common second hand. None come in white unless you have the original BIS livery Hornby did way back when.

    Here is the detailing pack.
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    I will start on the chassis.

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    First we have to remove the ladders- these have a push out clip from behind the end support, twist and remove from the chassis.
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    The two lugs (one other side) can be chopped off. Also, remove the hand brake wheels whilst your at it.
    Do the same at the other end.

    Unscrew the hopper from the chassis from underneath. The ends clip in just above the buffers, but also just come out easy.

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    So we now have two units. Put the screw and weight to one side along with the hopper for now.

    Here is where the “butchery” begins.
    Remove the end pips for the steps if you didn’t already do that.
    Pull out the hand wheel. And finally, take the staple to those blobs sticking up as seen here. They are supposed to represent the airbrake distributor and air reservoir tank... that’s debatable. Try and keep as close to the deck as possible and not to remove the pipe run, unless you wish to replace with new.

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    So once that’s off, we need to remove the boxes in the middle on each side. These are from different version.

    Once this is done, you have a chassis ready to go and can do some trial fitting!
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    Ok, playing done, let’s get back to the chassis and ready to complete it.

    In the detail pack are 4 little pneumatic rams for opening the bottom doors. It’s not till you start adding little bits like this you realise just how much is missing.
    Anyway, here is how the 4 go. They line up with the centre of each door and the two “feet” of the ram sit on the upturned chassis solebar. The feet should align with the outer edge... yes, the ram does protrude beyond it.
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    I found super glue is best for this job.
    Once set, you cane paint them black with the actual rod to the door a silver colour.

    This completes the chassis work till painting time.

    Part 2 - the hopper.
     
    jakesdad13 and York Paul like this.
  2. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    And so to part two, as frankly, I can’t get in to GOT (or Game of Thrones for the non followers)

    So, we start with the hopper which we have separated from the chassis.

    There isn’t that much to do here. E964CEDF-B2D0-41B9-B8E7-69833D2DD31E.jpeg

    First I remove the support ribs behind the end support panel, this actually makes the next stage easier. Just gently scrape them away keeping the blade flat to the body. Do this at both ends.

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    Next it’s the the turn of the end support. I use a rule on the end to scribe a mark level with the step of the body shown above and more visible below. 16DE7049-23FD-4CE8-BA2E-DEB55DF26E64.jpeg

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    Gently, keep scoring along until it breaks off.
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    Then it’s file time. Ensure the step is square and flat and the end ribs are gone. It’s needs to be flat and flush for the new parts, so maybe even a little wet and dry. You can take the main livery off too ready for painting later.

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    Trial fit the top. Ensure it’s a neat fit all around, and when ready, superglue it on.

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    Returning back to the chassis, place the ends in the slots and try the hopper body in and ensure a good fit. Don’t glue it yet!

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    Hopefully it’s looking something like this.
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    If all fits snug, and it should, lift the body out, leave the ends on the chassis.
    Put some superglue along the horizontal bar and the verticals support ribs at one end and lower the hopper body back in to place ensuring it’s kept square. When done, repeat at the other end.

    Part 3 detail.
     
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  3. Gary

    Gary Wants more time for modelling.... Staff Member Administrator

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    Excellent thread Andy. This is where 3D printing will make certain modelling projects so much easier. Nice work so far. :thumbs::thumbs::thumbs:

    Cheers, Gary.
     
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  4. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    It will for the bulk production... although, when you consider the cost of the print and purchase of a second hand wagon, your still coming out around the £30 a time price tag. A Little more than I would have liked when I started this “adventure” shall we say. But, for the detail your left with, also a wagon that no one else makes, it works out about the same as a new RTR wagon.
     
  5. Gary

    Gary Wants more time for modelling.... Staff Member Administrator

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    I'm just glad I said easier and not cheaper ! :avatar::avatar:

    Nice to have bespoke wagons on the layout that no one else has. I'm sure in the end, there will be people asking for one, or two, or three... :facepalm:

    Cheers, Gary.
     
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  6. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    Thanks Gary.

    Originally it was a rake of 15... I’ve got my own, and hopefully 2 other persons interested.

    (I think they later ran down the ECML in longer rakes under WBB Minerals/GB Railfreight)
     
  7. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    Just a quick update - out the paint shops...
    3 different wagons. Dual door closed, dual door open and the single door closed.

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    The last one also shows the lower door rams. These still need to be painted and then it’s time for transfers.
     

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