As my plank is being built in a confined space I was concerned about damaging the wire in tube handles if they were sticking out of the front of the baseboard. So before I inserted the wires into the tube I bent the handle end vertical, then heated it up and in my case melted it into a cow to disguise it **see images ( both cows operate a wire in tube point control). Of course you can superglue other things ie vehicles/ huts/equipment the choice in endless. Attached files
I have seen this method used before on an exhibition layout a couple of years ago but they had a change over switch for the point polarity built in, it was disguised as a pile of sleepers on one point and a stack of packing cases on another I remember being well impressed but had forgotten about it until now, nice job . Pete.
Good idea Ian... I used a similar concept for removing a lift out section in my layout - two wire hawsers down through the baseboard with one attached to a diamond T breakdown truck and the other to a WW11 pillbox... works a treat...
Ha Pete that doesn't surprise me I tend not to do original, in fact I now recollect Mikes' Diamond T/pillbox layout. Ian
Brilliant Ian... a cow and a red hot pocker. Now that is 'branding the cow' ! This is the method I used for wire in tube... The wire (0.8 - 1mm dia. welding rod) is inserted through RC car aerial tube, which is quite rigid. These were then glued to the top of the baseboard with 'No Nails'. The surface of the baseboard will be covered with scenery etc. The ends were bent 90* and inserted into a hole in the slide switch handle. The switch throws the point and also switches the frog polarity. Diagram : And how I positioned the switch in the baseboard frame : Cheers, Gary.
I tried wire in tube on my Highbridge layout but never got a reliable switching method with the switches not fully throwing. My inexperience more than anything else.of course ....... I did the wrong thing and changed to Cobalts rather than persevere. I would like to try it again at some point though as it just offers something different and more operational involvement......... One day ..... Once my skills and patience have matured maybe ...... Cheers Toto
Hi Gary very impressed, that's a really good diagram for those not familiar with the system. I'm fortunate Toto my layout is dc so using insulfrog points no switching required just tinto and tapas Ian
My system is more 'wire in groove' than 'wire in tube', basically some flower arranging wire is pushed through a thin plastic tube (from small plastic spray bottle 3 for €1.50) and bent up at either end. A groove is then cut in the corkboard covering and the wire and tube combo laid in it. This is covered by replacing the corkboard cut out allowing the whole wire and tube to move as one. One end goes through the point and the cow gets the other end ... works for me because the lengths of travel are short. Ian
I use 0.8mm. brass wire in 1mm bore brass tubing. It's a bit dearer but works very well. For the knobs on the end I use a short length dowel drilled in the centre to take the wire which is fixed by loctite or you could use a screwed connecting strip obtained from cutting the plastic from a chocolate block wiring strip.
You guys are very inventive.....I`m impressed.. My next foray into manual point control will involve push bike brake cables.. .....details yet to be worked out. http://www.click Gormo
Cheers Ron actually it was the other 5/8ths idea... well she used to have horses... dare say it'll cost me at some point Ian
