Yarrawa Terminus Layout.

Discussion in 'Planks, Switching and Shelf Layouts' started by red clubbie, Apr 11, 2022.

  1. red clubbie

    red clubbie Full Member

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    i made up a small scenery test piece to see how some different techniques would look.
    I haven't really done much in the way of scenery before, so I thought it best to have a go....

    I also made up a road bridge kit which will act as a scenic break to the fiddle yard. 003.JPG 010.JPG 021.JPG
     
  2. Jim Freight

    Jim Freight Full Member

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    That's a pretty impressive 'go', I find this aspect of railway modelling to be the most relaxing and therapeutic side especially after the more intensive:headbanger:aspects, Jim :thumbs:
     
  3. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Very nice scenic demo. The bridge looks the part as well. Looking forward to more.

    Cheers

    Toto
     
  4. Gary

    Gary Wants more time for modelling.... Staff Member Administrator

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    I like the stormy look !

    With the back scene you are using, I would recommend adding a layer of insulation foam on top of the baseboard and shaping it down towards the back scene. It will give the impression that the railway is perched on the side of a hill looking back into the valley. ;)

    Cheers, Gary.
     
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  5. red clubbie

    red clubbie Full Member

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    Thanks Jim,

    Scenery is something that I'm not really sure of how to do. I don't know if I would call it relaxing....:lol: :lol: :lol:
    I used static grass, ground up dirt, ground up leaves, little rocks from the garden, twigs. weathering powders on the sleepers, coloured grout,
    Woodlands Scenics ground cover and little bushes.

    I really wasn't sure how it would turn out....

    Cheers,
    Geoff.
     
  6. Jim Freight

    Jim Freight Full Member

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    Nor' do I most of the time, I just add a bit of this and a bit of that, tweak it, re-arrange it, when it looks right, it is right, the only bit of patience required is letting some layers dry before you add another, it's a lot easier to re-work than a piece of rolling stock, Jim :)
     
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  7. red clubbie

    red clubbie Full Member

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    Hi Gary,

    I not really sure what to do with the transition from the layout to the backdrop scene.
    The layout is in the foreground and the backdrop is in the distance, so it's that transition scenery-wise, that has me a bit stumped at the moment.

    The thing I'm finding is that you have to think about 6 steps ahead on every aspect of the layout when you are trying to do something.

    Anyway, I'm not on my own as others have gone through the same thing.

    Cheers,
    Geoff.
     
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  8. red clubbie

    red clubbie Full Member

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    Spent some time wiring up the points....what a fiddly job that was. I decided to attach the feeders to the underside of the track for a neater look. I also attached the frog wire.
    Luckily I only have 8 points....:lol: :lol: :lol:

    I was thinking of laying the points in position first. i have drilled the wire holes as well as the point motor ones.
    I'm thinking it is better to pin the points first, in case I stuffed up somewhere.

    I can then measure and set in the flexi track to suit.

    Is that the best approach?

    Cheers,
    Geoff.

    009.JPG
     
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  9. gormo

    gormo Staff Member Administrator

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    It could well be the best approach Geoff,
    I reckon you never really know if you`ve got it right until you start running trains. You might think " I need that siding longer or that point should be moved slightly etc."
    which only becomes apparent with some running.
    With pinning first, you have the option to change things to suit, whereas a permanent fixture might prove rather difficult to amend.
    :tophat:Gormo
     
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  10. Jim Freight

    Jim Freight Full Member

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    Hi Geoff, I tend to pin my track anyway, also for testing to ensure I can really run my trains as planned for a week or so and then ballast when happy.

    It also gives time to iron out any wiring issues and any forgotten insulating rail joiners :whatever:

    Jim
     
  11. red clubbie

    red clubbie Full Member

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    Thanks for the comments guys, good advice....

    I think it is a good idea to pin the track and points, prior to any final setting of the track. I've drilled suitable holes in the point sleepers and I will
    do the same for the flexi track as i lay it.
    I had planned on not starting any scenery or ballasting, until after I had run the Layout for some time, in order to see if there are any running problems.

    I've laid the BUS wiring, so it's on to track laying now.....:thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:

    Cheers,
    Geoff.
     
  12. red clubbie

    red clubbie Full Member

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    As I'm just about to lay some track, I thought I'd spent some time checking my rolling stock.

    The weight of them is the issue I'm going to address.
    Using the NRMA Recommended Practice for weights, I found that many of them were way underweight.

    I converted the Imperial to Metric and made up a Chart I could use based on the length of the rolling stock.
    As an example an LV van I have, weighed 30.6 grams when it should have been 75 grams.
    An RU wheat hopper weighed 19.5g when it should have been 85.2g.
    K and S trucks were also underweight as well as a MLV bogie van.
    So some weighting was needed. I had some old lead flashing that i cut to size and added to the underside of the MLV.

    Initially the MLV weighed 48.4g but it now is 97.3g. The standard should be 107g, but it's close enough and I can't fit anymore weight anyway..:lol: :lol: :lol:
    005.JPG

    I'll repaint and weather the underside when the glue dries....

    It's an interesting topic to see what others think of the weighting of rolling stock'
    More to follow.

    Cheers,
    Geoff.
     
    Last edited: Apr 23, 2022
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  13. Walkingthedog

    Walkingthedog Full Member

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    I have always found that points tend to need moving slightly to get the track to fit well. I take it the holes for the wires are in the middle of the track allowing for a bit of movement. Personally I wouldn’t lay all the points first.
     
    Last edited: Apr 23, 2022
  14. red clubbie

    red clubbie Full Member

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    I purchased an old Lima van on Ebay a while back and repainted and detailed it to a NSW LV van.
    One of the advantages of it is, that you can remove the roof, so when it came to re weighting it i could remove the roof.

    Originally it weighed 30.0g but it should have been 75g.
    So I found some nuts in the garage and glued them in.
    Popped the roof back on and all good...
    008.JPG

    Cheers,
    Geoff.
     
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  15. red clubbie

    red clubbie Full Member

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    I may have to enlarge the holes slightly to feed the droppers through. This will give me some variance.
    The position of my points are pretty well set for the Track Plan.

    Cheers,
    Geoff.
     
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  16. Jim Freight

    Jim Freight Full Member

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    Hi Geoff, those weights sound very high to me I would only aim for about 50g (approx 2oz) for a typical 4mm scale OO gauge 4 wheeled wagon :scratchchin:

    That would be for mixing kit built stock with diecast metal chassis stock in a train of 20 wagons, if your trains are much shorter your main concern is that they can be pushed across pointwork when shunting/switching when they are next to the loco.

    Excessive weight could adversely affect the bearings if steel axles in plastic bearings, or worse still plastic axles in plastic bearings.

    Jim
     
  17. Walkingthedog

    Walkingthedog Full Member

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    My O gauge wagons weigh 150 grams so I agree with Jim, 50 grams would be better.
     
  18. red clubbie

    red clubbie Full Member

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    Thanks for the comments Jim.

    I agree that i certainly wouldn't want to over weight them over the standards.

    All my rolling stock has metal axles and wheels with brass bearings, so they do run well.

    All of the stock that I have re weighted, is below the standard, bar the LV van and a white metal guards van that is over the standard weight, but I can't take weight out of that one.

    When I lay the track, I'll know better how they will behave....hopefully not too many problems., but I can remove some weight if needed.

    I will probably only have 3 or 4 wagons with a guards van at most on any train.

    Cheers,
    Geoff.
     
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  19. Gary

    Gary Wants more time for modelling.... Staff Member Administrator

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    Don't know how I missed you photo of the D50... :whatever: But I love it !

    I have an old brass D55 (Bergs) and I bought new driving wheels for it, I haven't replaced them yet as it's a bigger job than what I could possibly do.

    As for the wagon weights I believe you are adding too much weight. According to the NMRA standard, a nominal wagon of around 28grams in weight, similar to your Lima louvre van (30g), should have only 14 grams (1/2 ounce) added per inch of the wagon length. This would mean your Lima van should only have an extra 28 grams added at the most as it wouldn't be much more than 2" long.


    Cheers, Gary.
     
  20. Gary

    Gary Wants more time for modelling.... Staff Member Administrator

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