Yorkie's Connoisseur 4F build

Well it was a bit of a late finish but we got there in the end.

 

I had this hunch that Toto would soon be on with the rest of the tender so did a bit of forward planning. So the group decision was to use the Markits sprung buffers which have some very nicely turned brass as opposed to the white metal cast buffers supplied, these buffers are very presentable but the downside is they are solid.

Now to fit the Markits replacements, first thing to remember is the buffer centre point is the same, the holes in the tender buffer beam needed opening out a little, once test fitted they were sweated into place... care here to ensure they go on straight and sit nice and flat on the beam.

 

The next job is to emboss the rivet detailing on the tender side frames, once done the front drag box beam is fitted into its etch line on the underside of the tender baseplate and solder up ensuring the front beam is equally spaced on each end. Now the sides can go on and once checked for correct alignment they were soldered to. All easy peasy so far so good.

 

Now then time to test the rear buffer beam against the side frames and to see what's what... because we are using Markits sprung buffers we need to allow for some buffer shaft clearance in the fitting and also in the spring movement of the buffer. This is a two stage filing operation.

 

So we file out a suitable amount of metal from the back of the side frame, at this stage this is to accommodate a good fit of the back of the buffer only. I filed a notch equal to the depth of the back and the diameter of the back of the buffer spindle shaft.

 

So now to detail the Markits buffer collar, I drilled into the four holes on each buffer collar with a 0.8mm twist drill then wiith 0.7mm wire passed through with about 0.5mm showing at the front I soldered at the back and then snipped the excess wire off. I now had a good representation of the bolts that hold the buffer casting onto the beam.

 

Its time now to dress the buffers again before soldering the rear beam into position. The buffer beam will now fit perfectly and the recently soldered wires representing nuts on the outer face will position the beam nicely but we need to file some more from the sideframe in order for the buffer shaft to move. I only filed out just enough for the buffer to spring without snagging and because these heads will have to come off when painting the tender there is enough space to get the securing nut on and off. In my case I'm waiting on a back order from Markits for the correct size head for LMS buffers... currently the slightly larger BR ones are fitted so I can move this build forward.

 

And there we have it... one completed rear buffer beam all soldered up, the slit in the sideframe allowing for buffer movement will be hidden once the footsteps are in place.

 

Now I've moved this onto the next stage and added the footsteps to one side, I'll do the pictures on this tomorrow as I've set the axleboxes into position using Araldite and these are currently curing but it is a good idea to add a little strengthening rod to the back of the steps, this not only stops the steps from accidental bending but also adds strength and support to the side frames.

 

This kit is going together like a dream, it has to be one of the few I've built where you can see real progress in a very short space of time. What I like so much about Jim's kits is you can build the kit to whatever level you want, add in as much additional detail such as inside working motion if that is what floats the boat or in your case Paul creating an enclosed tender cab space.

I'll be happy with just a nicely made 4F which I can weather to suit.

 

Here is the result of last night's work, progress on the tender build has been rapid to say the least, today will see sidesteps on the other side fitted and the inner chassis construction started. I'll add in couplings and vacuum pipe once I see how the inner chassis sits inside the tender, obviously couplings and buffer heads will be removed once painting occurs. So all I have to do is remove excess Araldite from around the axlebox castings and that will clean this side up nicely.

 

The tender steps, the back ones are somewhat narrower than the front ones and the middle step is equally narrower than its counter part on the front step, I made the back step first so save confusion.

 

And here it is with angles folded and soldered, the wider front step yet to be put together is on the right. There is a tiny twist to be made on the corners of each tread plate, I formed these using long nose pliers.

 

What's coming then Andy, have you had Edwards soap powder box of spanners done or Philip's plus or minus a thou micrometer printed?