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Gladiator 0-4-0 LMS Ramsbotton Industrial Loco in 7mm

Discussion in 'Kits, Kit bashes & Scratch builds' started by Toto, Apr 19, 2017.

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  1. Apr 30, 2020 #121
    jakesdad13

    jakesdad13 Staff Member Moderator

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    Thats what I was trying to remember yesterday :facepalm:
     
  2. Apr 30, 2020 #122
    Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    On looking at this, there is still quite a bit to do on this. I was speaking to Dundee last night and saying that things like the hand brakey thing and the reversing lever can be bored out for but painted separate and fitted with araldite once the main body and cab have been painted.

    The same with the backhead and some of these other fiddly little fittings. The brake rigging will be late on as well.

    I'll tackle the boiler if out but again the ha d rail itself can only get final connection once the whole lot has been painted as it adjoins the edges of the bunker sides.

    Quite a bit of thinking needs to be done to get these things in the correct order. Even the wheels and axles will need to come of one last time to paint the chassis. ...... jesus.

    Loads to do.

    Toto
     
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  3. Apr 30, 2020 #123
    Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Happily making models Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    Welcome to the world of loco building, it's great fun though isn't it
     
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  4. Apr 30, 2020 #124
    Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    I am enjoying it. My eyes have been opened a bit on this build though. The number of times the wheels etc have been on and off ...... :facepalm: and it will happen again a good few times again before I'm through.

    Final clean, prime, finish coats :facepalm:

    I thought I was close to completion but no way. There are still so many small details and pipes etc to fit and then trial fit the various sub- sections in between.

    Another thing is I am still learning what half these parts are .... and where they should go so my overall understanding of these things is also benefitting. Does not help with the quality of the instructions and lack of guidance and pictorial assistance.

    Very time consuming but as long as I can see a " reasonable " end product ..... then it's all worth it.

    My first real attempt so I'm not expecting wonders.

    Cheers

    Toto
     
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  5. Apr 30, 2020 #125
    York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    It might be the first real attempt for you but a lot of people wouldn't have seen it through like you have and certainly not published their work as updating progress reports, the proof if ever it was needed is to check of the volume of part completed kits on the second hand market that are knocking around, all stopped for some reason whether it be for the want of knowledge, experience, tooling or loss of interest.

    As Rob says it is a very enjoyable and fun part of our hobby, so here's to seeing many more delivered from your bench Toto.:cheers::tophat::thumbs:
     
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  6. Apr 30, 2020 #126
    Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    One thought,

    I bored out the handrail known yesterday and they are a snug fit. They require a little pressure to insert them. If they are all the same, as they should be, maybe I wont glue them at all, opting for the ability to remove them should the loco need to come apart again. ..... opinions .........

    Toto
     
  7. Apr 30, 2020 #127
    York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    I personally cannot see a need to remove handrails, to me if you pressure fit the knobs in situ then all you are achieving is the base Heljan standard... I don't mean to debunk them but we all know how their stuff falls apart when its taken out its box. I'd press the knob in halfway then add a dab of either epoxy or cyano to the back inside surface to hold the knob then press home to complete the fixing.
     
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  8. Apr 30, 2020 #128
    Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Fair enough. Just a thought. Really for maintainence, as long as the footplate and chassis can come apart then why would you really need to remove the handrail.

    Fixed it shall be.

    Toto
     
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  9. Apr 30, 2020 #129
    Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Lazy day today.

    Nothing done. However, there will be a visit to the shed tonight. I think it's time to tackle dressing the boiler.

    I also have a levery thing to scratch build as it was not included in the kit. ( actually 2 parts ).

    So, I have the mutt to walk and then time to get moving.

    Progress report later

    Cheers

    Toto
     
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  10. Apr 30, 2020 #130
    Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    A quick question,

    How much of this stuff do you need to use. I'm assuming just a very thin smear of it onto a lightly sanded surface to give the epoxy something to key to.

    Toto
     
  11. Apr 30, 2020 #131
    Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Ok we're in the shed and setting things up for a dry test run ....

    first off the handrail knobs and the rail itself,


    a nice snug fit so a tiny drop epoxy dabbed onto the fitting as its being pushed home when it comes to the final fit shortly.


    and the other side below .....


    and again .....


    now one of the mystery fitting which turns out to be a water filler cap.....


    and other associated domes, chimneys etc .... ( dry fit so forgive the squint fittings ).

    and one final shot for now ....


    Now ...... strip out the handrail knobs and look at mixing up some epoxy on a piece of card for the real deal ...

    cheers for now .....

    toto
     
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  12. Apr 30, 2020 #132
    Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    OK,

    first load araldited ...... permanently .....


    and again .....


    and another .....


    and with the handrail removed just in case any araldite managed to work its way anywhere it should not have .......


    Now ....... some cab fittings to be bored out for ...... more later ....

    cheers toto
     
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  13. Apr 30, 2020 #133
    Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Now ..... locate position and make provision for two holes in the cab floor for these ......


    They wont be fitted until the cab is painted. I can look to see how these would have been painted and get them done. They will be glued in with Araldite when the time comes.

    cheers

    toto
     
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  14. Apr 30, 2020 #134
    Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Just looked at the photo Rob provided and realised that the valves on top of the boiler nearest the cab are 90 degrees out of kilter. Oh well ..... too late now. They are well and truly fixed in place now. That will teach me to double check and triple check in future. If it had been fixed in any other medium ...... there would have been a second chance.

    Tough cack. As they say.

    Toto
     
  15. May 1, 2020 #135
    Mr Porter

    Mr Porter Failure is always an option. Full Member

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    Why not file them down and refit new ones. You could even fit proper Ramsbottom safety valves.
    :headbanger:
    Jim
     
  16. May 1, 2020 #136
    Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    They'll do for now, maybe something for the future.

    Toto
     
  17. May 1, 2020 #137
    Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Happily making models Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    This is where life gets interesting, types of safety valves on older pre groupling locos tended to change later in life as boilers were changed. So you will see the same loco potentially at various points in it's working life with Ramsbottom safety vales (like the ones that you have fitted, albeit it the casting is only a partial representation of Ramsbottom type- it's missing the top lever) and Ross Pop type which are the ones fitted in the photo.

    This is why ideally you need to choose the specific example of the loco that you are planning to build and the period in it's life that you want to represent and then ideally find photos of both sides of the engine at that time. The latter isn't always possible so you do have to accept some compromises and use photos of other members of the class in the same period and hope that your particular loco didn't have something different fitted...
     
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  18. May 1, 2020 #138
    jakesdad13

    jakesdad13 Staff Member Moderator

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    The reversing lever is fitted to the left side of the cab, looking forward from the footplate, and the handbrake to the opposite, righthand, side of the cab. If you look at Dundees photo, post 119, you can see the reversing rod, painted white, and handle fitted close to the spectacle plate and handbrake column on the opposite side back from the cab rear plate almost central to give room for the handle to turn.

    Cheers, Pete.
     
  19. May 1, 2020 #139
    Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Thanks Pete. I'll get them fitted. I was up for it last night but delayed whilst I looked for other photo's.

    My comment in post 134 is incorrect. I have fitted the valves correctly as you are guided by the form of the base of the piece which straddles the top of the boiler curve. Back on track with that.

    Hi Rob, as you say variations need to be nailed from the start. Some slight changes not quite as important as others. I can live with any slight errors as long as it is acceptable as a representation to a degree. Maybe other loco types would be more desirable or critical to get accurate.

    Not just that ........ always learning and finding things out.

    Toto.
     
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  20. May 1, 2020 #140
    Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Ok ..... another late start today .....

    boiler door to be glued in place .....


    looks the part ....


    and one more .....


    and thats that. Now ..... the fun bit iis on its way ..... back soon

    toto
     
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