On order from Jim. I took a shine to Richards ( Ben Alder ) so decided to get one to try. Pictures will follow on arrival. Cheers Toto
This will be the first of a few kits to be tackled over the coming couple of months. Probably be Saturday as I need to give the shed a good tidy up after all the exhibition stuff returning home. Looking forward to it.
I have one of these in the to do stack so I will be interested to see how you get on with it - that said it's one of Jim's so I wouldn't anticipate any problems and if there is any 'gotchas' Jim will have them covered in the instructions.
I think forming the curve to the bottom of the coach will be the biggest challenge but not one I can't manage. A few fidgety wee handles as well but I'll just take my time. Looking forward to getting it started. Toto
The kit comes with a printed card floor. Think I'll cut a piece of plastikard to size and when fitting snug, stick the card to the plastic floor. At least if it gets damp for any reason it won't just warp and mess up. Toto
The best way that I have found of rolling the turn under (tumblehome to most people) is to attach a piece of wide masking tape like the photo below Then roll the loose edge around a piece of tube or broom handle Next grip both ends of the tube and roll firmly until you feel it bend. In true Blue Peter fashion here's one I did earlier....
You will note in a couple of photos a syringe? I use the syringe to dispense my flux. I find it much more precise than dipping a brush in a pot and it can stand being knocked over which is a bonus. As an aside I use the water based flux from Building O Gauge Online for everything, brass whitemetal, steel etc. PS the rest of the site is worth a look around too because there are some cracking model builds on there.
What's the best way of removing the lacquer from the etchings prior to starting ? I remember Bittern telling me to do this. Is soapy water good enough. Maybe with a little cream cleaner ? Cheers Toto
Do you have any IPA, that should clean off any sticky stuff, for small stuff like sellotape glue I use MEK on a bit off cloth, plenty of ventilation of course! Pete.
Toto wrote: Hi Tom, Jim's etches aren't lacquered but they may be tarnished. You can clean them up with cream cleaner or just a wire brush/pan shiner. I use CIF/Bar Keepers Friend or Shiney Sinks for cleaning up. The only etches that I know of that come lacquered are the Hachette Partworks pieces and I think this is because they are designed to be glued rather than soldered to make construction easier.
Hoping to start the build this weekend. I need to tidy the shed from the exhibition stuff from last weekend and get some kind of orderly space to work in. I'm trying to mentally prepare myself to deal with the very first task of forming this curve for the carriage sides. Could have started with something a little more straight forward but once this installed obstacle is over, it shouldn't be too bad. I'll let you know how I get on. Prepare yourselves to be rendered poorless. Cheers Toto
Hi Rob, Thanks for that. I decided to start on something a little more straightforward first. I'll keep you in mind though. I have 5 of these in different guises to complete. 1 for my maintenance train and 3 third class corridors and a brake third composite with bird cage lookout. Glutton for punishment or wot?
Just resurrecting this thread as it may not be that far into the horizon before it falls victim of the iron. Although a full brake, this coach will be turned into a departmental workshop / fabrication coach. I have built an all third 5 compartment coach version of this as a bit of a practice piece to gat a feel of how easy or difficult these are to put together and I'm happy to say there was nothing to difficulty about it. Dare I say ...... almost a pleasure. . Even the dreaded tumblehome was pretty straight forward so my message is simple ....... fear not. This version will be constructed a little differently as I will be doing the internals to this. I have still not worked out exactly what it will contain although a workshop is part of it. I have some whitemetal parts ..... lathe, pillar drill and work bench which I'll use. The coach will probably get split into at least two via internal partitions. The plan is to blank out windows, doors etc as required and to construct the two ends and one side whilst the internal cameos are constructed on a floor section and inserted through the open side. There will be some long brass etches temporarily soldered in place along its length to maintain the integrity of the whole structure whilst the open side is maintained. I'd like to get my head around the brake rodding on the underside and understand how that would look as these kits dont currently have the full bhuna provided for this. Any pictures / diagrams would be gratefully received. No immediate rush for it as it could be several weeks to a couple of months away depending on how long my 4F build takes. I also have a 3 co apartment brake third version which will be converted into an accommodation / bothy type arrangement to co Pete part of the maintainence set. Cheers for now Toto