Hi, Could anyone help me please, I have bought a Signalist SC1 V1 issue 2013. We are trying to programme it to run 2 aspect signals x 4. We have followed the instructions and tried everything can anyone explain where we are going wrong as according to the site they are easy to programme. We have a Digitrax Zephyr xtra Command Control in operation. Many thanks, Gloria(GWRGirl)
Hi Gloria I've not used the SC1 and having and NCE system, I'm not up on the Digitrax system. Your signals, are the common cathode or common anode, the SC1 can cope with either, but needs to be wired up for the correct one. Now have you decided the address you want to use for the SC1 ? Page 20 of the manual starts describing how to set the addresses, as it will use your accessory addresses, you need to plan / map out points, signals and any other accessories. For example, on my layout Accy address 100 - 105 I use for my traverser Entry road 1 to tracks 0 to 5, then 200 - 204 is for Entry road 2 tracks 0 to 4. My points are Accy addr 1 to 6, and my signals will be 70 to 80. Which signals are you using ? Paul
Hi Gloria, another question, do you use, or have you looked at JMRI ?. Back to the SC1, did you program it on your layout, or a program track ?. Paul
Hi Paul, Thank you for your reply to my query. tried to programme it on our programming track. followed the instructions given, but sadly to no avail. My signals are mostly Berko I think that is the name. I have a couple from CRS with a module included but not taken out of their packaging I think also its a bridge too far excuse the pun, I decided to buy the modules to try and make life a lot easier as wiring skills and soldering is next to none I am sorry to say. We have fitted a automatic signal one which works ok as when the train passes it changes to green and then red as I have only 2 aspect ones but found it stays on red until the train passes the sensor before changing back to green. I am thinking is the actual signal wired up wrong from the factory. The number I tried was 99. I hope this helps Paul, there is nobody down here that can advise or help us really. My kindest and best regards, Gloria.
Hi Paul, Have had a look at JMRL site all seems to complicated for me I am afraid. I thinking of getting in touch with CRS Signals to see if the will take it back or programme it for me. Also I have 2 other modules for points and signals which I am thinking of selling now. I bought an automatic train detector with a sensor but I think the signal is wired up wrong but not sure about this as once the train passes underneath the sensor changes to green and after it passes changes to red and don't revert back to green until the train hits the sensor again, according to the wiring code on the module green goes to green red goes to red and black goes common. Regards, Gloria.
Hi Gloria Sorry for the slow response - been at work, and getting ready for a short work trip to Germany, however ....... Hang fire on selling just yet, as you have said there's a fair investment in bits, and you'll loose a a fair bit on selling them. Can you list what you have, and what you want to achieve, and the time scale you want to achieve it in. There will be a bit of a learing curve (for us all), but it is do-able. JMRI, is crackable done in small chunks - for you the decoder pro part will be really useful for your loco decoders. For the signals if we take it easy, and start with 1 module and 1 two aspect signal, if you can supply the model type and number, I'll check the wiring specs, and see if we come up with the same wiring configuration. Then go through the setup process. Hopefully it will be similar to point control - I managed to crack that one. Paul
Hi Paul, The wiring is red wire to terminal for signal which is marked A the green wire to B TERMIAL The supply is red and black. There is a jumper plug to programme it. On the signal itself there is 1 red 1 green and a black one which has a resistor that goes to K on the board. The terminals are in order a,A,B,C,D,E,F,G,H,K. J2 is the terminal from the controller or switch. As regarding the other bits that I have I will have to look it up I think they are to do with points. Hope you had a nice day at work I start back in the morning I only work 3 days a week even though I am retired. May I ask what part of Germany you are travelling too, as we went to Hamburg and hopefully next year as well. My kindest and best regards, Gloria.javascript:emoticon('', 'images/emoticons/smile.gif')
Hi Gloria Bamberg, I'm getting picked up at 5:45 am to travel to the airport, and will return home approx 11pm on Wednesday, literally a flying visit, to see how they have setup thier systems and if they will map over to ours. Maybe get chance to taste the local beer, seeminly the smoked beer is a speciality, not something I am really looking forward to tho. Looking at the Berko and Eckon signals they appear to be common cathode (-ve), so on the SC1 module would be connected to k, and the red connected to A, and the green to B terminals. And the DCC connections to J2. After that were down to programming Paul
Hi Paul, Yes that is correct, I have tried to programme it with those connections in place, I have tried to programme it using the programming track which is situated on the control panel away from the main layout. I don't seem to be getting any luck at the moment with anything regarding signal installation. But see what happens. I bought 2 signals from TrainTronics had one working but now stopped as I was testing the module that came with it on other signals. It seems to work ok but don't know where to fit the resistor wire. If I touch the main feed with it both lights come on together the red one is dim the green one is very bright they both come on together though. So now waiting for a another automatic module with a sensor fitted from Block Signalling. I have to sort out the other sensor on the module that is fitted so the sinal light runs in sequence. I/e red to green and vice versa. Hope you enjoy your trim to Bamburg or is it Hamburg he he. Talk again soon take care and thank you for all your help you are giving me. Regards, Gloria.
Careful Gloria, I blew one of the green leds on a traintech two aspect signal with a direct connection. Connect the resistor to the common, bottom connection i think. Not got a great connection so will check when I get a better Internet connection Paul
Hi Paul, Thank you for that I think I have damaged the signal I mentioned, but not sure will check later. Gloria.
Hi Gloria Just seen this thread. I believe that Becko signals are 12 volt and the sc1 is for 5 volt signals I am not too sure if that is correct for the signals you have. I will read up a bit more on the sc1 are there any part numbers on your signals? be seeing you Bob
Hi Bob, Thank you for your reply, We have received a little information that they are definitely 12volt. The sc1 is around 4-5 volts that was from Block Signalling Company we haven't fitted anything as yet as still not sure. I am not into electrics as such. The trouble is what I would like is a complex system based on the real thing, being an ex GWR Employee. I have bought all sorts of boards to operate our layout, which seems no use to us now so might consider selling them on as they are for points on not signals. Hope I have explained myself. My kindest and best regards, Gloria.
Hi Gloria take a look at this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wL4I3MXxKZo I know you said that you are not into electrics but this is explained pretty well if I can help please let me know. be seeing you Bob
Hi Gloria If the SC1 only outputs 5V, and the Beko's need 12V (especially if they are grain of wheat bulbs), then you may need to use some form of switch. This could be a 5V relay or Opto-isolator, switched via the SC1, with the outputs being supplied by a 12V supply. Paul
Hi Paul, Lovely to hear from you, did you have a lovely time in Germany even though you were working. We have 1 board with a sensor which is working fine. We have bought another one but a smaller one an Aspins LED signal controller which has a common cathode, it is not fitted as yet as there is a small hole to be drilled for the signal wires under the baseboard also the controller needs a hole drilled in the track for the sensors. Thank you also for the help you have given me. My kindest and best regards, Gloria. document.write('/images/emoticons/emot-1280303093.gif');
Hi Bob, Thank you for the link to YouTube I will definitely look at it and see if it helps me. I am using a separate power unit which is a fusion adjustable from 1 volt to 15 volts, so hopefully things may work out. My partner and myself are members of the N Gauge Society, and will try and get to 1 of their meetings at some point. There maybe somebody there that lives to close to us and maybe willing to help if we have problems. Once again thank you for your help. My kindest and best regards, Gloria.
