Yep, but interestingly the posh wine and food store in the market square of Leyburn sold mulling sachets for wine, cider and gin (who wants warm gin???) but also bottles of mulling liquor for all 3 in 2 different capacities, one bottle and three bottle. The Christmas party meal was also excellent, more than plenty with seconds of all five courses veg soup, venison casserole, roast spuds, carrots, brussels and broccoli followed by Christmas pudding with brandy sauce, cheese and biscuits, tea/coffee and mince pies. £6.50 a head, self prepared and all on time for 22 people. Pity the weather today was &^%^(*&^ we just drove back home.
Have another look at the photo Mossy. The vertical bar is an inverted "T" with the horizontal part forming the pivot. Only the upper part of the vertical bar is threaded and the central part of the handle is a threaded tube and this bears down on the lid when rotated around the fixed central bar. There is a cap on the top of the vertical bar to stop the handle from being wound off completely. I'm currently working my way through some of the NERA photographs of the Class A that should be useful and I'll send these to you shortly. Tom.
Unless you wind it a bloody long way, that will never work, as the bottom will hit the upright of the tank!
Hi Mossy, you need to make T bar head diameter bigger as the bottom face needs to engage with the top face of the lid. May also be worth while putting a wee fillet on the inner edge of the T bar head, which will give the impression of the head being threaded - probably too small to see tho. Paul
Do these help? They're from the Tanks, Cab and Bunker drawing for a NER Class O but show the typical layout for NER tank filler lids. Tom.
Yes thanks Tom, I drew mine from the lid provided by for the Gladiator class B, and that's oval, your drawing looks circular and checking my Connoisseur's G5 that is also circular. I think I need a full scale re-think but there's no rush. I could easily redraw mine from your scans.
Thanks Tom I have saved these myself as I have another G5 waiting in the wings for it's turn in the build queue.
On an aside, I had a print fail, not sticking to all of the plate - the bit that had stuck was nailed and a nightmare to remove. Print fail was the base layer not stuck to the build plate 2 points This was the first print using Anycubic Craftsman since using some Anycubic Standard resin, which did print without issue. It was cold ....... So room temp this morning 15C ...... heating is on but takes a while to heat up, one of the issues with a 100 year old house - doesn't understand the concept of heat insulation. As the resin is kept in the same room as the printer, it's also at 15C. Tried a different approach as a test. My Ultrasonic Cleaner also has a heater function, so I set the bath temp to 24C. I then cleaned the build plate for 5 mins, during this time the extra energy from the cleaning process increased the bath temp to 26C. Resin added to tank (now up to 16C). Build plate removed and dried off, fitted to printer and started the print. Build plate tem at 24C as the plate was lowered into position. By the time 3 layers had printed resin temp had raised to 19C and build plate was at 20C. Paused the print after all the rafts had completed printing and all looks good. 2 hours into the print room temp 17.5C, resin temp at 23.5C (heat from the UV curing is keeping the temp up) and the print is looking good. May be of help for your printing during the UK colder months (Sept to July ) Paul
Rob You have a couple of J21's unbuilt which probably have white metal tank lids, are they oval or round? My guess is oval. I wonder if oval lids are an LNER feature when in NER days they were round - seems a silly thing to do, but Class O's are far later than my A, B and what will be a C. Jim McGeown's G5 is circular, the Gladiator N8/N9's (NER B) has oval fillers and my J21 (NER C) ex LRM and further back also has oval caps. Do I spot a trend?
Paul I do something similar but not as sophisticated or monitored as you. Bathroom sink, resin and built plate immersed in hot water from the combi boiler, topped up with boiling water from the kettle whenever it seems to be cooling off until finally I get board or I get caught by ...., then refit the build plate, resin in and hey ho off I go.
I knew you heated the resin, but not the plate. I bought some resin from Anycubic as part of the Black Friday sale (the only thing I bought for Black Friday) £152 for a 10L Anycubic Standard + Mystery Box. It was certainly a mystery as 10L of ABS like resin arrived (usually retails at £40+ per litre), the mystery is supposed to be you don't know what colour youre getting. In my case 5L of Green, 3L Grey and 2L White. As the Green is translucent it requires a shorter exposure time. Looking online however the ABS like resin needs 0.2 to 0.4s extra exposure time. I still have 1.5L of Craftsman Apricot and 4L Craftsman Beige left, but will carry out some exposure tests before I run out. Paul
My kids asked for suggestions for Christmas and one of the things on the list was ASB like resin. I thought to use it on brake gear and any small parts which might be vulnerable. A week or so later I was texted by my daughter about why prices were showing in US$ and where the %^&^$£ it was coming from. I think I know at least part of my present from her, but it spoils the surprise. I saw the black Friday deal, but if they advertised Anycubic Standard how come you got 10l of ABS like? What was the mystery box it looked like odds and sods om the ad.
No they were always round. Here's an extract of the, not so detailed, General Arrangement for the Class A and the similarity to the Class O drawings are apparent. Any oval filler lids provided with kits are down to poor research or quality control in manufacture! Tom.
Thanks Tom, so I need a complete redraw but that doesn't matter. I also need extra sets for my class B and Class C, and I guess Rob may well want some for his 2 or is it 3 J21's.
The filler lids on tenders were different from those on tank locomotives. You would need to consult the appropriate arrangement drawing for the tender used with the Class C (J21). Tom.