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Toto's work bench

Discussion in 'Workshop Benches' started by Toto, Jan 13, 2016.

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  1. Jan 13, 2016 #1
    Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Hi Chaps,

    after seeing some of the terrific kit builds etc ( especially the L Cut builds ) I thought I'd chuck up some pictures of some laser cut plywood bridges that I built previously for Highbridge.

    I dont have the complete running series of photographs that I had on my original thread for Highbridge but you will get the picture ........ in fact ........ quite a few of them......:avatar:

    I hope you enjoy,

    First up is my single lane bridge which I shall be using as a pedestrian footbridge

    some of the parts laid out..

    [​IMG]

    Starting to go together.

    [​IMG]

    taking shape.

    [​IMG]

    and another.

    [​IMG]

    and the top side rails

    [​IMG]

    The finished article

    [​IMG]

    We move on to the double track version

    [​IMG]

    and another

    [​IMG]

    another

    [​IMG]

    and together

    [​IMG]

    and all three,

    [​IMG]

    They are good kits but the underside cross members are very fragile and easy to break. Once all glued together though they are really quite strong.

    Hope you liked the results. More will be available to view on my Highbridge thread once I get moving again ( hopefully this weekend )

    thanks for popping in.

    Toto
     
  2. Jan 13, 2016 #2
    gormo

    gormo Staff Member Administrator

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    Nice Work there Toto,
    Laser cut is really taking off now as people realize the possibilities. You can even design your own and get it cut. Just needs the right design software for your computer.
    Well Done old son!!..:thumbup::thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:
    http://www.click Gormo
     
  3. Jan 13, 2016 #3
    Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Thank you kind Sir.

    I intend to air brush them at some point. For now though I'll concentrate on the rest of the layout build. Hopefully this weekend.

    Cheers

    Toto
     
  4. Jan 13, 2016 #4
    SRman

    SRman Full Member

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    That bridge does look very good.

    Your comment about some parts being weak really echoes what applies to the real things too: each component may be weak (or have weaknesses in when stressed in certain directions), but when it is all put together, the bits all brace each other and form a strong overall structure.
     
  5. Jan 13, 2016 #5
    Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Hi SR Man,

    They are easy to build as well. A coat of primer and a top coat of something and they'll be fine.

    Cheers

    Toto
     
  6. Jan 13, 2016 #6
    Ron

    Ron Full Member

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    Looking good Tom, glad you're back to modelling! :)

    Cheers
    Ron
     
  7. Jan 14, 2016 #7
    Gary

    Gary Wants more time for modelling.... Staff Member Administrator

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    I'm looking forward to see what colour you will be painting these superb looking bridges.
    Question : Can you see any wood grain in the timber parts ?

    Cheers, Gary.
     
  8. Jan 14, 2016 #8
    Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Hi Gary,

    No grain I'm afraid. Just a flat finish. I'm looking at either a light blue or green finish.

    Cheers

    Toto
     
  9. Jan 16, 2016 #9
    ianvolvo46

    ianvolvo46 Staff Member Moderator

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    Like em Toto very interesting thread what make are they?

    Ian
     
  10. Jan 16, 2016 #10
    Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Hi Ian,

    from memory they were Greenwoods. I'd need to take a rain check on that though as they were build some time ago now.

    I'm pleased with them.

    cheers

    toto
     
  11. Jan 16, 2016 #11
    Gary

    Gary Wants more time for modelling.... Staff Member Administrator

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    Toto wrote:
    The reason for asking is if they had a grain effect in the timber, an application of sandable auto primer/filler may have had to be used to fill the grain.

    Cheers, Gary.
     
  12. Jan 17, 2016 #12
    ianvolvo46

    ianvolvo46 Staff Member Moderator

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    Cheers Toto I'll do a bit of googling or... go ogling as my phone predicts...?

    Ian
     
  13. Feb 29, 2016 #13
    Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Just done a little retail therapy with some dosh that never left my wallet in Glasgow.

    Some Humbrol weathering powders, maskol and some washes, thinners and varnishes etc.

    Looks like I may have a go at messing up a wagon or two. I need to go back to some of the how to's and read up now. I have some Dapol un painted wagons that I could practice on or maybe a grounded wagon body or two.

    I'll watch the humbrol videos again as well. I am slowly getting my head around the use of the layers of different varnishes used as layers to either assist paint in flowing ( through fine detail ) or sealing in powders and washes etc. I just need to get it clear in my mind the best order to do the various coats in.

    Could be interesting.

    Cheers

    Toto
     
  14. Feb 29, 2016 #14
    Gary

    Gary Wants more time for modelling.... Staff Member Administrator

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    If I remember correctly, you did purchase an airbrush...?? :scratchchin:

    One thing you need to watch for is the darkening of powders when a clear coat of varnish is airbrushed over the top. I would recommend a few very, very light coats of varnish applied. Allow each layer/coat of varnish to dry properly before applying the second or third applications. If you can get hold of IPA (Isopropyl alcohol), have a go at the method I use. It is easy and can be done in no time at all.

    Cheers, Gary.

    EDIT : make sure the varnish is FLAT or MATT and not a GLOSS ! :thumbup:
     
  15. Feb 29, 2016 #15
    jakesdad13

    jakesdad13 Staff Member Moderator

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    You can get IPA ( not india pale ale ) on line delivered quite cheaply in bulk, thats where I got mine, also MEK, and acetone, useful for unglueing metal parts, I have a 03 part built kit and some of the white metal parts need to be removed from the brass cab and re-fitted.

    Pete.
     
  16. Feb 29, 2016 #16
    Gary

    Gary Wants more time for modelling.... Staff Member Administrator

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    Please make sure the IPA is 99%, and not that watered down stuff..! (it doesn't taste the same :eek:)

    Cheers, Gary.
     
  17. Feb 29, 2016 #17
    paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    If your going to apply transfers or use the enamel washes, then a coat of gloss varnish is recommended, for transfers it helps cover the edge, and for the washes it helps the flow characteristics especially for panel lines. Once dry seal with a thin gloss layer, then apply matt cote for paint and powders, and a final coat of matt or satin coat to seal the whole job.

    Paul
     
  18. Mar 2, 2016 #18
    Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Hi,

    My maskol arrived from Hattons. Still awaiting the weathering powders and washes etc from Humbrol though. Ho hum.

    Toto
     
  19. Mar 3, 2016 #19
    Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Well,

    Back home tomorrow. I think I may do a raid on the shed and look for a suitable doner to undergo some medical experiment treatments on the weathering front.

    It seems to be the topic of the moment. I have a few candidates ( if I can find them ) they'll probably be quivering in a corner somewhere dreading the arrival of the bogie man.

    With a bit of luck, Humbrol will have extracted their finger and my weathering powders and washes will have arrived in time.

    We'll see.

    Toto
     
  20. Mar 3, 2016 #20
    ianvolvo46

    ianvolvo46 Staff Member Moderator

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    Careful Toto don't get the matt confused with the' Matt or for that matter the mat...!:scratchchin:
     
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