Just read the write up on Wickes's page, it doesn't say whether its self adhesive or not. If it is, I would suggest laying it on a silicon baking sheet first so as not to crack the clay on lifting once set. Looking forward to seeing how you get on with this mate. Cheer's, Pete.
I've used Wickes plaster bandage when drylining and plasterboarding, but not this sort. I'd imagine it will be adhesive backed but not sure if on both sides. If not, you could try double sided tape. Incidentally, the plaster bandage (which does NOT contain any plaster, it's used for covering plasterboard joints before plastering) is useful for mesh fencing. You can split the 2" wide size down into 2x1" for '00' gauge, I'd imagine '0' gaugers could use it straight from the roll onto 'fence posts' as it's self adhesive. I've used it on my layout, and it's exactly the same stuff as sold by model shops for the same use, but much more expensive from them! Keith.
Not made it to Wikes yet, so tried an alternative - a thin coat of PVA on the back of the moulding, then a layer of tissue, a light spray of water to soak the tissue, and pat it down - very gently to minimise damage. Wait 15 min and apply another thin layer of PVA ( I used Hobbycrafts Craft PVA which is fairly runny) and another layer of tissue. So far so good, and has survived the first coat of grey paint. Paul
Just caught up on the read. The stone work looks good after a few applications of colour. Another option for colouring is to pick out some of the stones and dry brush with some burnt sienna and burnt umber, then apply the darker washes to tone it down. Looking forward to the next chapter. Oh, don't forget this method... http://platform1mrc.com/p1mrc/index.php?threads/painting-and-installing-retaining-walls.118/ Cheers, Gary.
Two washes of black Hopefully I will be able to do the Matt Stone dry brushing before I go to bed. Paul
Looks the doggies doo dars Paul. Even though the roller must give off a certain level of repetition, it's not obvious when looking at it. I take it you have been selective in where you have made any joins. Toto
Nope just kept rolling along, unfortunately any backward and forward action will produce the undulations. Did the first bit of dry brushing You can see some of the tissue in the bridge support cut outs, the photo makes these look lighter than they are. I will try Gary's suggestions on one of the spare pieces Paul
The undulations are not necessarily a bad thing. Looks better than be perfectly flat and unform. You could maybe have been heavier with the Ryan brushing. There again, depends on the finish you want. It does look good though.
Considering its only the start of painting, it looks pretty good to me . As for the slight undulations, I wouldn't worry, if any one notices just invoke rule 1!! Cheer's, Pete.
Backing foam dried, so a test fit The wall will need cutting to the correct profile - probably a 45 degree slope Paul
To avoid repetition in the roller, just press or scribe a few extra lines into the larger stones. Cheers, Gary.
Picked up a roll of Wikes Plasterboard jointing and repair tape - so time for a test later. The two stone piers were attached to the timber supports using Decorators Chaulking, which will hopefully protect the clay from damage from vibration during transport and assembly. Also fitted over the bolts were some tattoo ink mixing cups. This is to prevent the glue / plaster etc getting on the thread during assembly. Once the stone piers were set, they were wrapped in cling film for protection from the glue and plaster . Then the polystyrene scenery supports were added And a thin coat of filler on top of the track bed to help level the different areas, once dried was sanded Started working on the Girder bridge before the main bridge - to go here This will be made from plasticard, and have a walkway on the side, supported with Cast iron brackets As a test these were made up on the 3D printer I like the righthand one the best, two will be glued back to back to give a flange effect. Paul
I think the right hand bracket has the edge because visually it looks to have better structural integrity, .
The right hand bracket has my vote too! A smear of vaseline on the bolt threads will help protect them as well. Cheer's, Pete.
Started on the Girder 30 thou base with an 10 thou overlay, that has had rivets applied, then vertical strips to represent the frame, and finally the walkway brackets. Test with the walk way decking Paul
Managed to get the first yard of flex laid I've used my track jigs to help straighten the rails, and then applied the clamp To help secure the track in position I have used both my home made track clamps and in the foam areas German pins (from the florists or floral section of Hobbycraft) Paul
What are you using to permanently fix the track down ? Have you glued the underside of the track ? Toto