You could just add the plate(s) then hide them, only showing them to export each version as an .stl file. Ready to print when required. I had thought of doing this for the number plates. Paul
Yep - Those are the ones where they narrowed just before the cross beam giving slight nip - not obvious but there.
Rob. I agree with Paul, add the plates as another body and then they can be flicked off or on depending what's required. Def the best solution.
It also makes management a lot easier - all canvases, sketches and bodies in the one place, now to try and follow my own advice Paul
Pual Been there got that tick. The number of times I have told people back it up, back it up and guess whos by far the most slovenly over backups. Not me of course.
In between working on bits for the lathe I have also been attempting to draw up injectors for a J52 This is what it looks like on the side of the loco I also have photos from each end that I took during a visit t the NRM at York. This is where I have got to and still some way to go but I am getting there.
Rob, That puts my slab sided wagons to shame. At a guess its less than 10mm across and so much detail. The boss is out on an all day walk, do I fired up the printer, no 3 of Mark fish wagons has just finished printing. I have decide to use up the remainder of that black resin I bought but didn't like because you can't see the details without a layer of primer. There's enough to finish all his wagons.
It's growing, I keep doing 10 mins here and there in between jobs on the lathe. Still a way to go but as BR used to say "we're getting there"
A little more done this morning. It's going to look mighty fine as a brass casting by the looks of things
At the minute 25mm, they have been drawn at 12mm to the foot so I would need to rescale it to confirm
Oh you naughty boy, why the ^%$£ didn't I think of that, draw at a scale of 12mm = 1ft, then when finished scale it down to 7mm to 1ft. That would save hours of converting feet and fractions of inches to decimals. Even overscale the detail is amazing, how much of it will show with a lost wax casting? If you want send me an stl I will 3d print one so you can compare the results of lost wax v resin, granted nothing looks like brass better than brass.
Or just drawer them in 12" to the foot, then divide by 43.5, you can define the measurements in imerial as well so no converting fractions to decimal. Rob, those splines if they were castings they would have a small fillet at the base - not only will that make 3D printing the master easier, it would also help with the lost wax casting process as well. Amazing bits of work. Paul
Since I took the renders I had softened some of the edges with fillets but had missed the splines, thanks for the reminder.
Paul, I appreciate you can use imperial measures as easily as mill's. but 2 questions. Would the grid also appear in imperial? Could it cope with a daft measure such as 1ft 2 5/8"?