I'd also add the .STL file is damn good at what it does, and is very versatile, I have created an eliptical wagon number plate in Fusion 360 at 11mm x 4mm, with lettering under 0.5mm in height. Exported as and .stl, then resized in the slicer software to print at 8 inches x 3 inches (18.5 times magnification) printing perfectly sharp. As Jim has noted editing is not the most straight forward. I have used MeshLab and Meshmixer to help repair files, not a great experience, but then again I try and avoid stl's until I get to the print stage. Paul
Sometimes the IdeaMaker slicer repair tool has actually repaired a broken STL file, from there I export the repaired STL and re-import it into SU, really a last resort trying to use a 3rd party STL file for other than just printing out, rarely worth the hassle for what I print. Starting from an STL file is like reverse engineering software, possible in the early days before Windows and compilers, e.g. assembled code in the 8 bit days, but far too complex now, oh dear, now I'm drifting back to the ol' days, where's my slate and chalk,
Another blunt instrument approach is the slicers them selves. Importing the stl into the slicer program and hitting slice, it will normally have an option to repair any issues - mostly these are support or lack of support issues, but do spot holes etc. Repairing these and then exporting (Save as in Chitubox) will give a fixed (or more fixed than the original) file. Paul
The first “repair” I did on the 4wheel NSR project coach was with the repair tool in Chitchubox. It worked as in it sealed it up but left it a different colour, which as Jim may have found from SU, is when a surface is revered. Something we don’t have to contend with when creating in 123d or Fusion.
I’ve found an issue with Fusion.. importing STL files makes them 10x over size. No idea why. Resizing in fusion then also moves its position in relation to the last as I cannot find a way that a model made up with STL files all collected together can be resized as they are all components.. I think my only option is to go back to 123D and resize the whole model, resave each file for fusion, reimport as new version and recolour to keep everything in its correct place and orientation.. ball ache but hey.. if anyone finds another solution (or wants to have a go and see if the same happens) let me know..
Hi Andy, this may be due to units translation during the import / export process, make sure that the same units are applied throughout, I have been caught by this too, Jim
As far as I can see, both are set to MM.. good shout though.. may need to check further in settings..
It does sounds as though mm and cm are involved, I read that STL files are dimensionless, which I think means that all the dimensions carried in the file are in 'relative units' so if the exporter writes the STL with one 'STL' unit equal to 1mm, then the importer has to do the reverse, i.e. translate 1 'STL' unit to 1mm. Jim
Whilst I don’t disagree, it seems odd the original STL is to 7mm scale. import in to 123D and it checks out correct. Import the same files in to Fusion and they are over scale. infact, I tried some STL figures I have and they also do the same. would someone else check this with an STL and see if you have the same issue? If not, it does then point to one of my settings somewhere .. or that it’s IS a fusion 360 issue.
Infact, it’s not me, it’s a known issue.. https://forums.autodesk.com/t5/fusion-360-support/stl-files-10x-scale/td-p/7889073
Thanks for the update Andy, I've bookmarked that for future reference, don't you just love these tools, and F360 is so £££ to 'lease' as well, also that thread is from 2018, bit like M$, they add new features whilst old ones stay broke. Jim
Sounds very much like the system we have at work.. just about to start out 4th year with SAAB.. but still keeps crashing, they blame our servers, till we had an independent assessor came in and say actually there are issues, but they wouldn’t cause the issues they are having
I’ve found an oddity in Fusion with the rendering.. for some reason it’s still picked up the photo environment background, which I turned off, through the windows! hey ho!
One of the models we touched on here were the lamps for Leek. Must say I’m most grateful to Rob for his input on the posts. Sadly, the ribs don’t stand out very well. But that can be looked at another day.. I wanted to show the progress made. I’ve been experimenting with the clear resin, and yes, as everyone else finds, as soon as you wash it with IPA, it goes cloudy.. version 1 of the lamps. The Suggs Windsor lantern is the main work at the moment with the Suggs Rochester lamp following later. v2 saw the head hollowed out and the top removed. Here it has just been coated in a Halfords lacquer for car body work. Seems to have brought the clear finish back a bit. I’ve had to beef up the curved arms here simply to be able to handle the model, but even in 7mm still looks to scale the post and cap are seen here having been primered. a trial fit. and on to painting.. the lantern on the cocktail stick and complete.. the post is hollow and has been made to carry the power leads up in to the lantern head where an LED can be placed on the top. (Once I find them!) more as we progress… but else where as it’s going off the fusion thread.
Hi Andy, Good to see the progress on the lamps it's been a while. It's probably worth suggesting that you try Johnsons Klear floor polish or 'Pledge Multi Surface Wax with Klear' as it's now known (I believe). Aero modellers use it to restore canopies that have become cloudy with age. I spray all my models with Klear* as a gloss coat before adding transfers which I subsequently seal with a spray of matt varnish * I have a stock of the original Klear which I hope will see me out.
Not had a bottle of that for over 10 years. I’ve heard that suggested before. I’m not sure it will matter too much for the parts I’m doing. Had it been glazing for a window, that’s a bit different and something to bear in mind though!