Rob, any ideas why they wont combine into a single entity, that's a pain in the proverbial, my get around is definitely a bodge.
They won't combine until you do something in 3D with them such as extrude or cut. - unless I am misunderstanding?
There must be a way to do it.. you can add textures etc for the pictures, why not a 3D version to give a worn metal effect with dimples where it’s been painted with a tar brush over where the paint had peeled off before, or the grain and pattern of wood.. even a little rough finish for a brick or stone (not all are smooth!) can’t believe we have come this far yet don’t have these options yet. Andy
There's a free program called Blender that you can apply textures to 3D models with. Unfortunately, I'm only just scratching the surface with it and using some of its basic features to make casting trees, and I don't really know how go about adding textures. There are lots of tutorial-type videos out there on YouTube though I believe there are various 'ready made' textures, and I even think there is some clever way of manipulating a photograph of a texture, into an actual 3D texture itself that can be applied to models......no idea how though!
A quick google search came up with this Create a surface texture Select Symbols > Surface Texture . Select the edge of an object. Select the location of the start point. ... Click again to specify the next point. Do one of the following: ... In the Surface Texture dialog, select the symbol type and add annotations. Select OK. And a video to go with it Not watched all the video yet, but may have potential Paul
Wathed the video, not quite what we are after, this may be closer to what we want. However, it uses Blender to create the texture. Looks simple ....... Make sure you save your models before trying this out. Paul
Paul, I agree option 1 isn't wants needed, as for option 2 I'm bugging out of that thank you just a chicken at heart.
Although I have an idea how I might create graining using splines, I would have to question the actual need for it. In reality, the only areas where wood graining might be visible is on the insides of open wagons. All painted exterior surfaces were filled and stopped etc. before the application of multiple layers of paint and varnish (depending on what the item of stock was) so there wouldn't be any visible wood grain on the real thing, let alone at 7 or 4mm scales. I will be the first to admit that I am a detail freak, but it has to be visible on the real thing for me to want to replicate it in miniature.
Rob, I'm glad the detail freak doesn't see the need for graining. I decided against it after looking at the videos Paul posted - just a lot beyond my skill levels. I've been tinkering with my planking method an have come up with a slightly easier method which I think gives more consistent results, I will right up a brief precise and post it later.
I'm with you all on this, however texturing would be useful for stone built buildings, walls etc. I have downloaded Blender, but have not tried to use it in vein ..... yet. Actually, I still have too much to learn on Fusion360 before starting another reason for migranes Paul
Same here.. I found it odd as doesn’t use the buttons we’re currently used to. Which doesn’t help. Kept trying to rotate and ended up with a menu on screen
I tried Blender a few years ago but it didn't click with me. I suspect that with any software you have to have a need or real desire to learn it for a purpose or you will struggle. At the time I had no specific thing that I wanted to create so didn't have the impetus to stick with it.
Rob, after 30 years as a software designer I absolutely agree with your comments, need or desire is totally to get a grip on complex software, I've seen numerous development fail because of a lack of both or either.
Agree too. I've learnt the bit of blender I needed for my purposes. For me it's the time it takes (and my lack of available time!) to learn the new bits, which prevents me from getting any further with it than necessary. When you look at some of the things people who make minis for wargaming can do with Blender, or even jewellery makers, it's clearly a very capable bit of kit.
While trying to improve my new method of plank cutting, Rob suggested a different way of doing it. It's more difficult to explain than do and after a couple of practices it's quite easy and makes a better job than my method. The basic diagram, half and end with the end post on the right and a line 2.2mm in from the lefthand side. My planks need to 2.3mm wide with a 1mm x 2mm groove on each side and this method starts with the righthand cut of the left most plank, hence 2.2mm. There is also a line .1mm from the left edge and running horizontally across the end, but that's for later. First step is to extrude the basic shape, in my case 1.5mm deep Next a thin extrude (this was a new bit to me). Open the extrude dialog and click on thin extrude and select the line 2.2mm in from the left. Distance is the depth of the cut, Wall thickness the width of the cut, this defaults to 1mm so is also set to .2mm. This creates a single cut line. Next Pattern on a path. Again a new to me select features as the object type then select the single cut line as the object and the construction line as the path to follow. a random distance, start point 0 and the quantity of cuts required in this case 11. I then adjusted the distance until the cuts fitted into the space, you could have calculated this before hand. The final step was simply to select the .1mm section on the left and extrude it .2mm. This produces the half width cut which is needed for the mirror of the other half, and extrude the end post. End result after mirroring a nice van end ready for detailing. Give it a go it's much easier than any other method I have used and would work equally well on flooring.
Help! I have obviously hit some strange combo of keys and lost my history bar, how can I get it back?