Mossys 3D Models

Discussion in 'Workshop Benches' started by Mossy, May 19, 2022.

  1. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Lots of light supports along the bottom edge of the front and rear buffer beams. Backed up just behind with mediums and heavies along the base. With the heavies nailing each corner.
    I put a 0.2mm dia fillet down the edge of the valance, then add a lot of medium supports. The fillet moves the support slightly in from the edge so making cleanup easier, and keeping the corner sharper.

    I'd add some footplate to the bottom edge of the tanks maybe 2 to 5mm wide, and apply a fillet to the internal join, this will beef up the structure.

    The photo appears to have curvature on the front section - the smokebox and boiler would help stabalise that.

    It takes quite a bit of experimenting to iron out the issues

    Paul
     
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  2. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    Thanks for all that Paul, yes your right the front is slightly curved, another thing to look at. I have the boiler printing at the moment, but that like the body is really a test to find errors on my part and to get some idea of optimal printing. I am going to concentrate on the chassis as if it won't run smoothly there's little point having a fancy top dressing is there.
     
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  3. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    Finally all 3 major components have been printed, almost a week of work
    Chassis Run 1 9hr failed
    Body Run 1 11 hrs catastrophic failure
    Chassis run 2 with the chassis inverted successful (sort of)
    Body Run 2 again with the body re aligned successful (sort of)
    Boiler run 1 7hrs successful (sort of)

    47 hours of printing over 4 days. The chassis and boiler have minor problems, all easily corrected, the body more fundamental problems with the print and again minor niggles,
    all of which was not unexpected, it's the first time I have drawn and tried printing a loco body and chassis. With the 3 bodies pushed together a lookie likee Clas A loco

    Loo 1.jpg

    The next task is to test build the chassis and all it components. It's been drawn with a rigid chassis, but could easily converted to sprung horns blocks if required, also after discussions and advice from Rob P, it has proper radial trucks front and back (a new one on me). Cleaning the radial mountings has been frustrating but once clean the truck move quite nicely but worrying the trucks with open top and bottom are very flexible radial.jpg so I may well print new ones with closed top and bottom.

    Initial fiddling with the brake gear looks promising, 1 minor blooper with needs the hangers reprinting but that's about all. Most of which is for next week as we are going to a 3 day Indian wedding with over 500 guests (another new experience), I'm told the parents house is valued at over 2 million with 5 acres of grounds and boasts a large outdoor heated swimming pool, so my mates son seems to have done rather well for himself!
     
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  4. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    That looks the biz!!

    daft question that you or Paul L may say yea or nay to… is it worth the side tanks being solid for some extra weight? Or would printing them separate cause an issue with body lines?
     
  5. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    It may look the biz but there are lots of bits that need tweeking, there a world of difference between drawing the thing and seeing it in resin. The worst problems are the distortion of the drag beam, (probably a lack of moral support) and which I haven't even looked at is that the smokebox door is at least 1 and more likely 2mm undersized, how, who knows lost in the mists of time.

    I will defer to any answer Paul comes up with but I would have thought better to leave them open resin is quite light were as with open space there is somewhere to put additional weight. Would printing them separately cause a problem, 11 hours is a long time to wait and find out, I will stick with them as they are.
     
  6. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Combining the Boiler and body parts into one, will save on combined print time 11hrs body + 7hrs for the boiler, will take just the 11hr body print time, and maybe even have room on the build plate to print the chassis as well. Giving 11hrs in total for a loco print.

    However, rather than print the side tanks solid, I'd fill them with supports (full width) to help retain shape, then if weight is required glue lead into the tanks, especially for this model would be directly over the axles. Additional lead can be added to the smokebox and bunkers if required. Solid resin is expensive and can give issues with not being fully cured.

    That is damned fine looking Loco

    Paul
     
  7. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    Cheers Paul,

    Yes they are nice looking beasts this one is modelled as originally designed by TW Worsdell (built without coal rails) If you can find a colour photo of one in it's original livery - wow! Saxony green panels, black and white linings and the outside a rich maroon colour, polished brass Ramsbottom cover, brass polished ring between the smoke box and boiler and lots of other fittings either polished brass and or copper. Just beautiful, but way beyond my painting skills.

    Sorry should have said my TVB bands have arrived I am just setting one up now and hope for a quick test before leaving for Brum tomorrow morning.
     
    Last edited: Aug 25, 2023
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  8. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    Paul,

    Your right I could print the body and boiler as a single unit, but I drew the fitting for the retaining bolt on the smoke box, so printed as one would block it. Having said that both can and will be printed as a single print run, that's already been checked saving the 7 hours. As for the chassis, it will be ASB like not Craftsman so need to be printed on its on. And yes the void behind the side tanks is ear marked for any additional weight needed exactly because it's directly over the wheels.

    Mossy
     
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  9. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Just extend the hole through the footplate, it's how I've done the passenger tank. The smokebox nut is a little fiddly to fit, but if you make the hex hole a little oversize, thread a screw through the hole, attach the nut to the screw, pull down until the nut starts to enter the hole. Then apply a spot of super glue to the nut side and pull into position.

    Anywhere you can see evidence of layer lines or feel layer shifts at the print angle, is a good pointer to vacuum traps, and may need additional venting.

    Paul
     
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  10. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    Paul,

    The boiler feels very smooth so I guess no vac traps needed, equally the chassis is fine, but there is a district ridge on the side tanks extending all around the body. That needs investigating. In the mean time the only thing I have manged to get done is the number plate. I found an excellent diagram in one of Ken Hoole's books, down to heights of font down to 5 5/8", 3/4" etc, BUT no font details, of course it could be a company specific one. so for the moment I have just used a generic not very lookie likee.

    490 No Plate for Class A.png
     
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  11. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Open up your word processor, type in North Eastern Railway Gateshead works - in Block capitals, then just work through all the True Type fonts you have installed, until you get a near match. Face it when printed at the correct size the name will be approx 1mm high - the Loco number may need to be closer than a near match with them being bigger.
    You are then going to cover them in primer, final coat and highlighted in white, nearies may well be close enough - I can hear Rob and Yorkie banging thier heads on the walls already :avatar:

    Paul
     
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  12. Tom Burnham

    Tom Burnham Full Member

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    Mossy,

    Here's some enlargements of actual Class A number plates, number 490 taken from the official works photo. and and a clearer one of number 674, both locos being in their original condition.
    Tom.

    Number Plate 490_edited-1.jpg Number Plate 674_edited-1.jpg
     
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  13. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    I’m inclined to agree.. at some point there has to be a compromise. Especially where the font doesn’t exist..

    that said, I did create the LmS signal box font a few years ago for Paul. Cost me around £12 to create it.
    Andy
     
  14. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    Paul/Andy,

    I agree using word to locate the best fit is the way to go, I just haven't had the time to do so, also since I have over 200 true type fonts installed, curtesy of loading Pageplus to edit the 2 books I have had published it going to be a long and tedious task even assuming 2/3 of them are instant rejections.

    Tom I like the 2 enlargements but interestingly visually they don't fully match up to the diagram in History of NER loco on page 211of Ken Hooles book. He quotes 3/4" for the lettering which I calculated to be .43mm (but I am crap at maths) and 5 5/8" for the number, I have rounded that down to 5 1/2" and calculated it as 3.2mm. So why did I specify .6 and 2.75 on the drawing? Anyway those are fixed looks better but still not quite right. I have also fixed the mounting to match both Ken Hoole and the scans. Just a suitable font to locate. I think the rails that the text wraps around needs adjusting to get closer to the plate rim, that's for another day.

    It amazing isn't it taking so much trouble over something which will be almost invisible and as Andy says will have primer, base and top coats sprayed over the top, but it's still good to do, I must be stark raving ^&**(((.

    Second Go.jpg
     
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  15. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    Superb craft there Mossy... you are indeed a slave to detail... lovely work.
     
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  16. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    Thanks Paul,

    I think I got a dose of detail contagion from Rob Pulham and just can't seem to shake it off.
     
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  17. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    Yes Rob leads the way in micro making... lovely knowledgeable chap I first met at Thirsk some years ago... will catch up with him and others at Guildex on Saturday.
     
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  18. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    Actually, it was Paul who said about the primer..:hammer:
     
  19. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    Collar and Cuff don't match.

    I'm not talking about dyed hair v au natural, but body and chassis. Parking the number plate for a few days I have finally made a start on making up the chassis. It fits perfectly when married up to the body, but, temporarily fit the wheels to chassis and they no longer marry up. The rear wheel cut-outs of the cab floor are to small for the wheels, which also means the potentially the cab internal side bodies will also be to small. I tried figuring it all out in Fusion but in the end gave up and chopped up a copy of the body to produce a test bed.

    test bed.jpg

    The rear splasher cut-outs are over sized but when fitted to the wheeled chassis I can get proper measurements and set about adjusting the full body and probably (but hopefully not the cab interior splashers). It's printing now so I should have time to see what's going on later today, not a happy bunny but such is life!
     
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  20. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Hi Mossy - fun time

    Take measurements from the Fusion model, then check these agaist the printed model. Overexposure may be causing the model clearances to be too tight. If the overall sizes appear too big or small you can scale each axis within Chitubox.

    The other bit to be aware of our model toerances are greater than the real thing (e.g. flange sizes) so you made need to make some clearances a bit bigger

    Paul
     

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