Mossys 3D Models

Discussion in 'Workshop Benches' started by Mossy, May 19, 2022.

  1. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    I’ve got 5 different wagons to assemble C2 and C3 opens, D1 and D2 Bolsters and the P6 Coal hopper, so had to decide which to start with and just for the %^$£ of it choose the P6 hopper – it’s just a bit different.

    It’s pretty basic: body and chassis. 8 bottom doors, axle boxes and brake gear along with a 3 point axle compensation system. I forgot to add the axle boxes to the photo!

    IMG_1205.jpg

    After a through wash and brush up of all the parts the holes for the 6 horizontal handrails were drill .7mm simple, then onto fitting the 8 bottom doors. Despite being an exact measure of the openings all of these were very tight and needed quite a bit of filing and fettling to get them to fit. I have already adjusted the sketch to reduce then by .25mm in both directions to reduce the fettling required if I print any more of them. Anyway, I worked through each door fitting it to a specific opening and numbering them so I knew which fit where.

    IMG_1206.jpg

    Next job was to think through locating the compensation units. These are designed to be either fitted using 8BA cheese heads and nuts or glued. I initially planned to use 8BA’s. based on the fact, with no load of coal they would be barely visible and definitely invisible with a load. Mapping out a sketch of the position shows this problem:

    2022-05-19.png

    So cheese heads out of the window. With the other 4 wagons I have printed pips on the underside of the floors to locate the units to allow them to be glued. This wagon with separate bottom doors doesn’t really allow that method, perhaps I should have thought through it before printing the body but that’s life isn’t it. They are going to have to be position using pencil lines and care, to compound the problem the natty little axle spacing gauge Rob Pulham recommended wont be much help as it doesn’t fit over the bearings of the compensation unit. More thinking, tannin and nicotine required.

    Off for treatment

    Mossy
     
  2. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Could you just print the doors as one unit, with the appropriate pips / holes or recess for the W irons ?

    Paul
     
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  3. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    Hi Paul,

    The bottom doors sit flush with the bottom of the chassis, so that would probably mean printing the chassis as a separate body to the wagon body, so not impossible.
    I have been thinking of a possible alternative, but not sure it would work. There's now a .25mm gap between each bottom door and the chassis, is that enough to release any build up of air pressure, equally I could angle the print slightly along the long axis (say 10-15 degrees) which would minimise the volume of air being trapped at any one time.
    I could easily then add positioning pips to aid alignment of the compensation units. What do you think?

    Mossy
     
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  4. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    Opps I meant directly above the top of the solebar.
     
  5. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    D1 / D2 Bolster Wagons Assembly

    While delayed rethinking the assembly of my P6 Hopper I decided to make a start concurrently on assembling the D1/D2 bolsters, which should be a relatively simple build.

    Job one was to solder up the suspension compensation units, these are pretty simple and cheap units, they didn’t take long to solder up. I’m impressed with these and will be using them for all my builds. They are ex WEP but now sold by Walsall Model Industries £3.30, they also do another unit for 3’ 6” which I may well also use for my brake vans.

    IMG_1208.jpg

    Buffers, couplings and wheels all came from Invertrains. The wheels are pre blacked, so I used Rob Pulham’s cherry red heat and veg oil wheeze to blacked the buffer heads and coupling links, the brass coupling hooks blacken with brass black. I actually did all these pre-assembly jobs for the P6 at the same time.

    IMG_1210.jpg

    Next on to the wagon body.

    Job one clean out the holes for the buffer bodies and coupling hooks in the drag beams, all needed easing out a little (note for the future draw the holes slightly bigger on future models). That’s all the prep work done on the body.

    The floors were then fettle a bit before they fitted neatly into the bodies. Here I tried something a little different. Rather than gluing the floor down with superglue I used 5 second UV activated glue to spot glue the floor down and stuck them in my wash and cure for a further 10 minutes just to make sure the curing was complete then superglue to in fill the gaps not glued. Finally all that’s left to do was to glue the overhanging sides to the floors. A nice few hours of work. The bolster is just posed not fixed.

    IMG_1213.jpg

    Mossy
     
  6. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    Yesterday I only a couple of hours available for playing before family time took over, so decided to look at fitting the D1 axle boxes and compensation units. I decided it would be easier to fit the axle boxes first and then the compensation units, a decision based simply on the space available and the brittle nature of the axle boxes, I also decided to continue with experimenting with the 5 second UV glue rather than standard superglue or araldite.

    What became apparent very quickly was that the UV light pen activates surface glue easily but isn’t strong enough to penetrate 1mm think resin. The first axle box simple didn’t adhere to the chassis, so as an experiment after a clean up of the parts, I reapplied glue to the back of the chassis and axle box, but then also tack glued the axle box in 4 places where I could see the glue and use the light pen easily. With the box tack glued, I then cured the unit in my wash and cure machine. The result was nice and firm and well glued. With a successful experiment I then add and cured the remaining 3 axle boxes and the 2 brake V’s, sadly time ran out so the compensation units will be fitted today, along a repeat exercise for the D2 wagon.

    An interesting couple of hours. The UV glue is much easier to use and to apply exactly where you want it over superglue, that’s a plus, but if you don’t have a UV curing machine how do you cure it properly. I know there are UV light pens available on the interweb but couldn’t find anything out about their power.

    So the beastie looks like this so far:

    IMG_1214.jpg


    Mossy
     
  7. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    I forgot to mention another bit of prep work that was done prior to the build. The D1 and D2's have 10 lashing rings, 3 on each side (location holes visible in photo above) and 2 to each end. Rob Pulham creates these with bent wire, its a slow and difficult task, but, I saw on Paul Lancaster's Highland wagon build, he used eyelet pins easily found on the interbinty. I bought a pack of 500 for a couple of quid a while ago, so decided to give them a go. Easily bent then blackened using heat and veg oil and now stored to be fitted later. As bought on the left, bent and blackened on the right.

    IMG_1215[9405].jpg

    Mossy
     
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  8. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    Not complete but I could resist, D1 on the left D2on the right. Brake gear still needs attaching plus numerous other tidying up bits.

    The bolsters are just posed and won't be attached until after painting. The D1 is a fixed bolster, the D2 moves on a patented swing plate.

    Compensation units attached using 5 min epoxy which we all know takes 24 hours to harden. Tomorrow is a walking day so the missing bits will have to await till Wednesday at the earliest.

    Mossy
    IMG_1216.jpg IMG_1217.jpg 2
     
  9. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    Looks very good..
    Must get back to my wagon, but need to draw the correct axle boxes.
    Andy
     
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  10. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    The d1/2 is very simplistic compared to that monster your drawing and its axlebox looks like a nightmare.

    Mossy
     
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  11. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Happily making models Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    I like those and may have to invest in some myself when I get back to wagon building.
     
  12. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Looking very good Mossy.

    You can also use 3D resin to gap fill (seemingly you can add filler as well to make a paste) then cure in the wash n cure or useing a nail varnish curer. I treated the boss to one a few years ago, she reckoned I wasted my money as she doesn't use that sort of nail varnish ...... oh what a pity I said, i'll look after it then :avatar:

    Paul
     
  13. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    It’s not that big? It’s only a 10ft wagon (I think?) i just lack drawings, details and knowledge! :facepalm:

    I have no idea what the bottom doors look like as Airfix/Mainline/Dapol/Bachman failed to model it in OO.. so to scale it up to O leaves some issues to resolve.. especially as not one survives! I’m amazed how quick you can turn these out?
    Andy
     
  14. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    Rob,

    They came off ethief but to be honest I cant even remember what I searched for. They are very soft so I'm not steel but some king of alloy. The bag of 500 cost less than a fiver.

    Mossy
     
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  15. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    The search term is Eye pins

    upload_2022-5-24_10-21-57.png

    or for door hanles

    Head pins will give these

    upload_2022-5-24_10-23-4.png

    A wee bit o filing.

    Both are normally gold or silver plated.

    The following is a UK manufacturer with the wire being Nickel.

    Paul
     
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  16. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Happily making models Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    Thanks Paul,

    I looked last night but they all had threads on them.
     
  17. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    Mine came from China, I think £3.75 for 500 post free, so obviously not an overnight service but I wasn't in any rush for them,

    Mossy
     
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  18. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    Despite being happy with the mark 1 D1 and D2 bolster wagons, I wasn't totally happy with squeezing the floor past the inner side nuts etc and took the opportunity to open out the holes for the buffers and couplings so decided to try cut one end off as a separate body so the floor could be slid in and the side fitted afterwards. So (ignore the hideous craftsman 'apricot' resin bought as a part of 2 for 1 deal making a lire £14), the 3 parts looked like this:

    IMG_1219.jpg

    But after a few wipes with a file they fitted together very neatly as this:

    IMG_1220.jpg

    Next I need to commit myself to gluing all 3 parts together. :thumbs:

    As I have noticed a whoopsy with the P6 hopper which requires some significant sketch changes and to keep Rob happy I am also brewing a K1 cattle wagon, (eta 8:30 this evening) piccies to follow assuming no print failures.

    Mossy
     
  19. Mossy

    Mossy A classic grump Yorkshire man Full Member

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    The K1 printed sort of, actually, its scrap. Basically I didn't put enough resin in the vat and it ran out about 5mm from the top of the vans. What a ...head.
    Actually having inspected what had actually printed I found (hard to miss) this:

    IMG_1225.jpg

    Now that is exactly what I found with the original test print and corrected a couple of days later, so what the is going on. After a few minutes of digging I decided to anoint myself as a double .... head, but upgraded it to triple .... dick head. Yes I had fixed the problem but never regenerated the .stl file, so effectively I have just reprinted the original error just in a lurid orange resin. To compound the .... up, my free subscription to 369 ran out on Friday which I then renewed, simple of course, except since then fusion 360 refuses to load correctly. :facepalm:. Just to further compound the situation the brake gear for the D1 needs changing, the cross members are in the way and I can't make the adjustments without 360. Life never rains it just pours, just part of life's rich tapestry.

    Mossy
     
  20. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Staff Member Moderator

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    Oops..

    I think I did that once too! :facepalm:
     

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