Yes. That’s right! As Rob said, as it was before would have pulled the brakes off not applied them.. looking good. ……. Must crack on with mine ……..
Hi Mossy Here's a couple of picks for the single shoe and the other side - are the shoes on the same axle or diagonaly opposite sides. Which side will the lever be on ? Good news is these shoes will need minimal fettling. Paul
Paul Pictures better than a thousand words so: Opposite side opposite wheel looks like this: Combined brakes like this: Just going to post revised brakes should be with you tomorrow. Mossy
Hi Mossy So if the 1st photo is correct Brake on the left - brake lever points to the right. The other side as per photo 2 For the brake to operate correctly, the lever will also be on the left - same end as the other side points to. my head hurts Paul
Left and right hand levers fit like this So if you push either lever down the operating shaft rotates in the same direction. Mossy
Thought so ....... working upside down and back to front, almost at the point of giving the shunter a large pole to shove between the spokes Been distracted this afternoon, my new Mono X arrived. Only a few differences - Build plate has an etched checkerboard effect on the underside. And the screen looks sharper and thats with the protector still in place. The yellow bonnect was supplied without its peel off protectors , my original still has them in place - stops that mucky idiot of an operator touching it with resin stained gloves Now i'm confussed - I know that's very easily done these days - within the manual - ok stop that mock chocking - YES I AM READING the Manual Page 6 so UV setting of 100% for Transparent resin - Green, Clear and Red & 80% for the rest. Page 17 has you setting the exposure to 50% Dropped the exposure to 80% as I'm using Anycubic Craftsman Apricot (factory setting was 100% - factory setting of my first Mono X was 50%). Best part of 3 hours to go for the test print. I will then try a print from the original Mono X Paul
Paul Thought so ....... working upside down and back to front - that's what screwed the first D10 build. The spare I had was %^&* so it got binned. Since then I have had 3 print failures trying to print a new body. The skate is failing to attach itself to the build plate across one long axis of the plate. I thoroughly cleaned the build plate with acetone until I wasn't getting any more of the black stuff off. Second print failed identically so more cleaning, this time including alcohol cleaning of the resin vat and the screen protector, yet another failure. So I have gone right back to basics and releveled the build plate and gone through yet another cleaning session. Print run 4 will be started later today. Your fancy Mono X 4K came very quickly, mind you ot would have been from their UK stocks I guess, and it's cost was little different to the Mono X I bought a few months ago. Mossy
Yep - checking the Quality Control Label, it was made last August. EeeeeeeK - while reconfiguring the wiring for all 4 printers (putting them on an extension lead with individual power isolators), I caught the printer power button. Quickly resyoring the power - delayed by a round of cussing - it asked me if I'd like to rusume printing - well you could have blown me over with a feather - errr YES. Approx 570 layers into a 1036 layer print, this could be interesting. Paul
Don't trip up like I did with the firmware version, check your printers firm wear is the current offering from Anycubic. Mine was hopelessly out of date. Mossy
Top photo looks wrong as the link from the brake hanger needs to be above or below the shaft the hand brake lever turns, as it has a crack angle in it, otherwise it would turn like a clock hand!
I’ve never changed mine. one of the FB groups advised against it as people have been printing bricks due to a flash error or version issue.
Andy, Mine refused to print anything until I updated the firmware, but looking at the QC label it was built 3 years earlier, so potentially the firmware was well out of date, Mossy
Well the good news is it printed, even wiith the power outage part way through - caused by some dumb clutz. Not the latest firmware, but I'll stick withit for the moment 3.4.8 UI_V1.2 My original Mono X has been flashed to 3.5.4 UI_V1.2 I remember when I flashed the original, there a two versions of the board, and hence two different updates. Paul
While I have been doing battle with the D10, these two have been kept under wraps. The build process is identical to the D10. The brake levers are only partially fitted (print failures mean I am reprinting some righthand brake levers. The detached ends are also being reprinted because I changed the design and screw things up. Hopefullu later today both wagons will be completed. I'm amazed how clear the NER 1A on the axleboxes shows up. A D1 fixed bolster wagon: A D2 Bolster wagon with a swing bolster: Mossy
Impressive - Mossy Works ramping up to full production Just doing the RERF tests on both Mono X's Both set to 80% UV Exposure, and using the same resin - Craftsman Apricot. The Test print got binned, not because there was anything wrong with it, I just couldn't get it off the build plate without destroying the base. That checkerboard etched surface certainly does the job, but looks like I will have to adjust the bottom layer cure time. I'm hoping the optimum cure times are the same, otherwise I will need two seperate profiles and keep the images seperated. Looks like today will be non-modelling day - It's supposed to rain in Scotland during the summer Paul
Rain, and your on the sunny dry side of Scotland, we are on about our 8-9 day of sunshine but the Headingly test starts today so it's bound to rain in the next 5 days. I have spent many summer holidays in the highlands, you can just about guarantee at least half the days were ruined by rain, two come to mind, one it rained for 13 days out of 14 and we were there with 3 kids the other after 10 days of rain, we simply packed up and returned to sunny Yorkshire! In general the best weather in the highlands is found during May and June. Mossy
D1 (left) and d2 (right) finished. Bolsters just propped in situ. Back to the D10 next once I have figure out how to do the securing rings on the bolsters. Mossy
Starting the new D10 build. The D10 has two fixed bolsters like the grey one in the picture above, however it also has six smaller bolsters which fit into pockets 3 per side. These can be lifted in and out as required. I have chosen to fit the metalwork on these before doing the basic build work on the wagon. Using the age old method of annealing brass wire and wrapping it around various circular formers coupled with lots of fiddling about I got about half way through these last night and have finished them off this morning all up I'm quite pleased with the results. I still need to do the same for the D1 and D2 bolsters but I now have a working method to get the job done. .7mm wire for the main bolsters and .5mm wire for the smaller ones. I'm rather pleased with the results especially on the small bolsters but less so those on the large bolster so may well modify those. Mossy
Nice, they are coming together nicely. I do like the colour of that resin, it's really easy on the eye.
Thanks Rob, I have hand a real good look through Tatlow and decided I don't like the iron work on the big bolsters so its coming off and being replaced. The interesting is the number of variations shown through out the photos in Tatlow