3D Printer Early attempts

Discussion in 'Workshop Benches' started by Colin_W, Nov 13, 2019.

  1. Colin_W

    Colin_W Full Member

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    I was lucky enough to purchase a 3D printer a few months ago and after making the obligatory add on's for the machine and the multitude of Arduino/Raspberry Pi boxes decided to have a go at some 00 Gauge arches for my layout. Initially the idea was to make them in a modular form i.e The arch it's self, the under-arch fill in and the buttresses. Eventually I decided rather than gluing fill in inserts into the arch and the buttresses to the side ( very difficult with PLA plastic ) I would print the whole piece as a single item, making various copies in the CAD program and just changing the design of the infill.
    First attempts.jpg

    Adjustments were needed to the depth of the bricks on early attempts.

    Looks like I now need to learn to paint.
    IMG_20191113_122357577.jpg
    IMG_20191113_122405681.jpg
    IMG_20191113_122411013.jpg
    IMG_20191113_122320316.jpg
    This is the last one. Needs paintwork finished also adjustment to the brickwork. I printed it in black as holding the previous ones( printed in white ) up to the light allowed it to shine through. Also I had a hiccup with the print so didn't clean it very well hence the hairs and dodgy window frames.
    I'll keep trying :(
    Col
     
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  2. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    They look pretty good to me. :thumbs:
     
  3. MalcT

    MalcT Full Member

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    They look good Colin. Mine are built from downloaded sheets glued to card.


    MalcT
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Nov 13, 2019
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  4. Matt

    Matt Full Member

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    They look great, really impressive!
     
  5. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Full Member

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    The usual questions..

    what’s it drawn in?
    What printer are you using?

    looks good :thumbs:
     
  6. Ben Alder

    Ben Alder Full Member

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    Looks good - the striations show up horribly in close ups but to the eye are invisible, esp once everything is in place on the layout. I have been doing a bit of this recently, albeit second hand, I do the research and a guy with access to a printer does the work. Here are a couple of shots of one of the projects which I'll elaborate on later in its own topic. I have since done another column and sanded it smoother but TBH, there is no difference to , admittedly elderly,eye. 20191019_221206.jpg 20191102_231937.jpg
     
  7. ianvolvo46

    ianvolvo46 Staff Member Moderator

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    I'm very impressed Ben the arches look great and the water column is stunning :thumbup::thumbup::thumbup:

    Ian vt
     
  8. Colin_W

    Colin_W Full Member

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    Hi Andy, I'm using Tinkercad which is a free online cad package. It's a bit basic but does the job. The printer is a "Creality Ender 3" not the pro version. I'm using PLA and at the moment a 0.3 extruder but may try a 0.2 for the next print. Having said that Ben is right you tend not to see the striations, the pics have to be close up but step back and a bit of paint and everything looks better. The PLA is very hard to glue.
    Thanks for the kind comments guys.
    Col
     
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  9. Colin_W

    Colin_W Full Member

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    Hi Malc, these look like the 'Scale Scenes' sheets and I really like them. My problem is I'm in a shed and although It's not damp the temperature varies quite a lot and the paper and card tend to suffer. The plastic arches are actually based on these very sheets (which I down loaded pre 3D printer) you have used.
    Col
     
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  10. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Full Member

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    Ah, Tinkercad. I went for the sister program of 123d design but that’s been super-seeded by their newer fusion360 which I just can’t get to grips with. (It doesn’t import its earlier relatives files either unless it’s an STL file which is a pain in the bum if you need to edit.

    I have a CTC Bizer with a .2 nozzle but I can’t say as it’s that up to much. I see much more detailed items printed by folk and an quite envious at their results. Most of my final prints and produces (and sold) via Shapeways website.

    This was my latest project. The add on platform, rapier name plates and air res tanks (not shown/fitted)
    4AC8C586-361A-426C-BCC9-59D74E90C0EC.jpeg

    I still have some painting to complete.
    96159B5B-E61D-4EEF-8269-39766B5B040B.jpeg



    Good work on your arches! :thumbs:
     
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  11. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Full Member

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    that’s never OO Ben? Looks O gauge... if it is, that’s stunning even more than how good it looks if it is O gauge!:thumbs::tophat:
     
  12. Colin_W

    Colin_W Full Member

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    Thanks for the kind words Andy. For a printer that's not up to much that looks pretty damn good to me and I understand the envy factor looking at that. I have spent the last 2 days sorting out a printer problem which turned out to be the bearing at the end of the Z drive had slackened off and was moving a tiny amount causing the extruder to hit the work piece and move it on the bed. Nightmare! Oh the joys :faint:.
     
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  13. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Full Member

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    Ah, Tinkercad. I went for the sister program of 123d design but that’s been super-seeded by their newer fusion360 which I just can’t get to grips with. (It doesn’t import its earlier relatives files either unless it’s an STL file which is a pain in the bum if you need to edit.

    I have a CTC Bizer with a .2 nozzle but I can’t say as it’s that up to much. I see much more detailed items printed by folk and an quite envious at their results. Most of my final prints and produces (and sold) via Shapeways website.

    This was my latest project. The add on platform, rapier name plates and air res tanks (not shown/fitted)
    View attachment 16697

    Good work.
    no, that’s what’s been printed via Shapeways, but my design.
     
  14. Ben Alder

    Ben Alder Full Member

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    Yep, good old 00, and a rather poor phone snap at that. The guy can do it in 0 or N if required. I'll have some more shots once I finish off the second column.
     
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  15. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    For flat surfaces, I tend to print that surface directly on the base - With PLA, I use 3M blue masking tape on the build plate, cleaned with Lidl's Blue window cleaner, and pre-heated to approx 60 deggrees. The PLA seems to stick to the build plate without issue (provided I've levelled the build plate correctly :whatever:)
    Although recently most of my 3D printing is being done on my Anycubic Photon resin printer, the main restriction with the resing printers is the build plate size.

    Really effective results gents

    Paul
     
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