A question for 4mm kit builders - How do you wire an Anchorage Open Framed Motor?

Discussion in 'Hints & Tips' started by Rob Pulham, Jun 12, 2019.

  1. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    Hi All,

    I am back on the trail of the 4mm Highland locos and would like to get the barney at least ready for a test run this weekend at the Stainmore Railway show. What I am struggling with is how best to wire up the open framed Anchorage motor that came with the kit.

    I have never had to wire a motor that didn't have specific terminals before. I assume that you would solder the wires to the screws that hold the brushes in place but I am happy to be corrected or offered a better way of doing it.

    IMG_1251.JPG IMG_1257.JPG
     
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  2. SMR CHRIS

    SMR CHRIS Staff Member Moderator

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    Hi Rob
    I’ve fitted several similar motors supplied by a customer but not under that brand name
    I unscrew the Brass caps for the brushes and pre solder wires to them them before refitting this way doesn’t heat or distort the plastic insulator.
    Just making sure you solder to one side of the screw slot.

    Edit
    Some also cone with a circular piece with a tab for soldering the wire too but few and far between or not include by the kit packager.
    This is as you may guess is fitted by unscrewing the Brass Brush holder fitting the ring and reinstalling the Brass brush holder
     
    Last edited: Jun 13, 2019 at 10:03 AM
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  3. Keith M

    Keith M Staff Member Moderator

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    Those 'Anchorage' motors are something of an 'Antique' nowadays I think Rob. I'd agree with Chris regarding the connections, although you could make a complete ring of wire (twisted back on itself) then tinned before fitting under the brush holder screw. Failing that, make a couple of simple solder tags from some thin brass fret offcuts, of which I'd guess you'll have plenty, again fixing under the brush holder screw!
    Keith.
     
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  4. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    Thanks guys, I agree they are a bit old hat but it's what was supplied and the motors themselves are brand new (or at least they were 30 years ago...).

    Thanks for the suggestions on fitting, you have confirmed that I am on the right lines as to 'where' to fit the wires I just need to choose the how. If there is enough clearance under the body I will stick a piece of PCB to the side of the motor so that any subsequent removal can be done without having to resort to taking brushes out etc to release the wires.
     
  5. SMR CHRIS

    SMR CHRIS Staff Member Moderator

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    Hi Rob these motors even though they are quite old usually perform very well and produce plenty of torque
    In a perfect world the motors come with a ring tab but most ones supplied in kits tend to be missing this part, possibly due to orders in bulk by the kit manufacturer and in the packing the tabs aren’t included.
    As Keith noted you could make this part up from some scrap brass, it needs to be thin as the further out the brush holder sits it then reduces brush pressure slightly often the springs will accommodate this with out issue or stretching the spring slightly should take this up.
    Looking at the motor you have been supplied it’s body is uninsulated from one brush Holder/retainer so you will only need to wire up one side and then use the body as the ground, old school this will be all ok for DC but for DCC will need insulating in some way. Second insulating bush and brush holder as a replacement.
     
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  6. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    Thanks Chris,

    I hadn't noted that it was only insulated one side. That will make things a little easier I am only preparing it for a DC layout anything more and the customer will need to cover it. With it being 4mm I am not charging that much so need to be careful with how much time I put into it.
     

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