G`day Folks, Hereunder I will insert more information passed on from Ray. As the title suggests, it`s a kit conversion which can save you a lot of brass compared to the commercial RTR model currently available. The Lima Centre Cab Shunter chassis is not exactly the right length between the wheels for the Dapol kit side frames, but it is near enough to give reasonable representation. Besides, at UK around £30 (excluding tools) it is a lot cheaper than buying a Heljan model ! You need to ensure that the Lima model is one with a PLASTIC chassis and NOT a metal one because you need to cut up the chassis. I think mine was an HO model as it had the original Lima continental couplings. The Lima motor is a good runner when cleaned and lubricated and is easily maintained by removing the railbus body. (Motor Maintenance instructions provided below) REQUIREMENTS 1 DAPOL(Airfix) RAILBUS KIT C047 UK cost under £10) 1 LIMA Centre Cab Shunter (MUST be plastic chassis NOT metal chassis) UK cost under £20 Masking Tape (Tamiya 5mm or 10mm) Brunswick Green paint (Humbrol Aerosol or No 3) Mid or Dark Grey acrylic matt paint Yellow paint (Revell matt enamel 15) Silver Paint (Vallejo Model Color 177 Oily Steel) Black paint acrylic (matt) Phoenix Precision Paint Track Dirt (optional) Tamiya Plastic Scriber or Sharp Craft Knife Razor Saw Plastic Cement (Revell Contacta Professional) Superglue INSTRUCTIONS (DO NOT follow the Kit instructions) (Numbers in brackets refer to Dapol instructions) 1. Paint the kit roof (53) mid or dark grey. 2. Paint the sides, doors and ends of the kit Brunswick Green (Humbrol Aerosol or No3) 3. Mask off the side and end stripes with masking tape (Tamiya 5mm or 10mm) 4. Paint the side and end stripes yellow. 5. With a fine tip brush, paint the frames of the windows silver (Vallejo Oily Steel) When all paint is dry:- 5. Assemble the windows (49-52) into the sides and ends (As per kit instructions) 6. Cement in the Route Indicator Covers (43 & 47) and paper Route Indicators to body ends. 7. Assemble the body by cementing onto the roof and clip-fit onto the floor as per instructions. NOTE – the floor must match the door openings! You may need to fill in small joint gaps with Milliput filler and touch in with green paint. (DO NOT GLUE ONTO FLOOR) 8. Remove the kit body from the kit floor. 9. Discard the Lima shunter bodyshell. 10. Remove the motor from the plastic chassis – 2 small screws. 11. Using a Razor Saw, cut off the ends of the Lima chassis to just leave the motor mounts (see photo). 12. Razor Saw down the sides of the Lima chassis leaving it about 3mm smaller than the kit floor on each side. The Lima Chassis will eventually hang beneath the kit floor. 13. Carefully mark the position of the remaining Lima chassis on the underside of the kit floor, keeping it central in length and in width. (The two vertical Lima chassis supports must be able to sit on the kit floor for subsequent glueing). 14. With the Tamiya Plastic Scriber (or Sharp craft knife) cut out the kit floor, so that the Lima chassis sits on kit floor but will allow the motor to sit inside the kit body. 15. Superglue the Lima chassis to the kit floor on the ends of the chassis and the two central supports. 16. Offer up the Lima motor into the Chassis and kit body – it will be a tight squeeze! Screw onto chassis using the original screws (OPTIONAL) – You may wish to cut the kit Side Frames to exactly match the dimensions between the axleboxes to the dimensions of the Lima wheelbase. However, it isn’t too noticable if you don’t cut the frames. 17. Cement the kit Engine Cover (1) to the rear of the Side Frame (10) at the point where the angled exhaust pipe meets the solebar. You can use the Kit underframe (2) for reference by holding the side frame against it. You won’t need the kit underframe. 18. Cement the Steps (20 & 21) to the Side Frames (5 & 10) 19. Paint the front and rear of the completed Side Frames black. 20. Superglue the Side Frames to the centre lugs on the Lima chassis. (NOT to the kit floor). Ensure that the frames are parallel to the sides of the floor/body. You may need to add a couple of thin bits of plasticard behind the frames and cement them to the floor to ensure the frames are parallel. 21. Assemble the Heater (55 & 56) and cement into the kit Floor as per instructions. 22. Assemble the Headstock (11) and Tanks (12 & 13). Cement to the kit Floor and leading edge of the Lima chassis at the opposite end of the Lima chassis to the Heater. 23. Cement Springs (16 & 17 & 18 & 19) to the ends of the Headstocks with the Spring facing forwards and down. 24. Cement the Reservoir (54) to the floor as per kit instructions. 25. Cement the Body Tank (57) near the heater as per kit instructions. 26. Assemble the buffers and cement in place on the kit floor as per instructions. 27. Cement Tow Hooks in place as per instructions 28. Paint all underside parts black. 29. Pick out engine and exhaust detail in silver/steel and paint in some rust colour on the exhaust pipe. 30. Add some track dirt colour to side frames and to all wheels. 31. The body simply clips onto the floor at twelve points. There is a groove in each body clip that the floor sits into. 32. Add transfers. The front “whiskers” are awkward to apply without twisting and the “roundels” are not accurate – I replaced them with “pressfix” roundels. 33. Apply weathering if required. (OPTIONAL) The whole thing is quite light and would benefit from some additional weights added front and rear either on or below the floor. I found a good solution to the lack of weight of the Dapol Railbus with these flat weights https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SEALEY-S...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 Can be used for wagons or other locomotives - self adhesive too. That’s it ! You will have a couple of left-over kit parts – the under frame (2) and Brake Reservoir (15) and the wheels supplied with the kit will fit your old Triang or Hornby wagons! LIMA MOTOR MAINTENANCE Requirements Isopropyl Alcohol (Rubbing Alcohol) OR Lighter Fluid Cotton Buds Cocktail Stick Nail File or Nail Sanding Stick Teflon Bicycle Grease Sewing Machine Oil OR Fishing Reel Oil (NOT 3-in-1 as it is too heavy and NOT WD40 as it can attack plastic) 1. Remove the motor from the chassis via the two securing screws on the underside of the chassis and unclip the body. 2. Clean the wheels using a Cotton Bud dipped in Isopropyl Alcohol (or Lighter Fluid will do). You can turn the wheels using the plastic gear wheels. 3. On the Commutator Housing there is a large Y-shaped metal retaining clip that holds the plastic gear wheels. Gently prise it up to remove the gear wheels – REMEMBER WHERE EACH WHEEL GOES ! 4. Inspect each gear wheel for molding pips as these can slow/jamb the wheels. Remove any of these with a nail file or nail sanding stick. 5. Re-assemble the gears and apply a little bicycle grease for smooth running. Replace the Y-shaped clip – the top of the clip sits agains two plastic lugs, not between them. 6. On the opposite side of the motor, gently Prise up the two metal clips on the Commutator Housing that retain the Springs and Carbon Brushes. Hold the spring with a cocktail stick while you do this to prevent it escaping. Turn the motor upside down to let the spring and brush drop out. Clean/inspect the brushes for wear and replace if required. Set aside for later. 7. Remove the Commutator Housing using the two small screws on the outide of the Brush Retaining Clips. 8. Using a Cotton Bud dipped in Isopropyl Alcohol, remove any carbon black from the copper commutator. Remove any stubborn dirt using a Cocktail Stick. Use a cocktail stick to remove any dirt from the join lines between the commutator segments. 9. Replace the Commutator Cover and tighten the two small screws. 10. Insert a clean brush and spring into the Commutator Body and bend down the retaining Clip. Ensure that the clip is not too tight. 11. Add a drop of Sewing Machine Oil to the shaft bearing on one side of the commutator and the gear wheel end on the other. 12. Test that the motor runs freely on the track before assembly into the body.