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Advice needed for securing worm drive onto motor shaft?

Discussion in 'Kits, Kit bashes & Scratch builds' started by York Paul, Sep 16, 2017.

  1. Sep 16, 2017 #1
    York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    I've got a PRMRP conversion kit for detailing the BBT Hymek on the go and recently I've been paying attention to the bogie frames, I just did a dry assembly of fixing the motor into position and meshing the worm to the gear cog on the axle, everything went well with nice easy movement when tested. The next stage is to fit the Delron cog as part of the final assembly, however this is the point at which some advice is needed... when fitting the worm onto the can motor shaft is it enough to just tighten up the grub screw or do I need to drill an indent into the motor shaft for the grub screw to bear on? This shaft seems to be hard to drill into, or another option is can I superglue the worm into postition as to help maintain the grub screw's grip... I'd prefer to do this than drilling the shaft. The worm slides directly onto the can motor shaft and does not need the brass inner sleeve as some earlier PRMRP Hymek kits did. All advice is gratefully appreciated chaps as I just don't want to run the risk of a drive failure to the loco latter on... I can then post up some progress pics into my Bit and Pieces thread.Thanks in the mean time. Paul
     
  2. Sep 16, 2017 #2
    Kimbo

    Kimbo Staff Member Moderator

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    Hi Paul, on the one motor chassis I've started I just added a dab of thread lock on a cocktail stick.Testing it, seems ok, although I've not yet added the chain drive to the second axle. :scratchchin:
     
  3. Sep 16, 2017 #3
    York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    Hi Kimbo ... thanks and cheers http://www.click I'm glad you suggested that as I thought that was the way to go. I think the chain drive is going to be a bit on the tricky side to fit :hammer:I'm not wiring the bogies up as PRMRP suggest... instead I've drilled the frame sides to take Slater's splunger pick ups with Negative return power fed back via the insulated wheels when the loco is in forward drive. Now there's a point which way is forward on a diesel with two cabs.
    Cheers Paul
    Kimbo wrote:
     
  4. Sep 16, 2017 #4
    Keith M

    Keith M Staff Member Moderator

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    You could use superglue as suggested, Loctite threadlock is what I use, intended for locking nuts onto threads and can be removed if necessary whereas with superglue, maybe not.
    Keith.
     
  5. Sep 16, 2017 #5
    York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    Thanks Keith :thumbs:, in the end I did use Locktite Superglue since the worm can be extracted out from the inner bogie frame via a cut out. I worked on the basis that I couldn't see a need to seperate the worm from the motor shaft.
    cheers Paul
     
  6. Sep 16, 2017 #6
    Keith M

    Keith M Staff Member Moderator

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    I thought I'd not need to remove the worm from the Mashima motor for my GT3, but fortunately used threadlock instead of superglue. Sadly while test running it, the motor lasted 10 minutes then died on me, so good job I didn't use the superglue as the worm had to come off to send the motor back for replacement. Happily, Chris Gibbon at High Level kits is replacing the motor FOC for me, otherwise I'd have needed a replacement worm as well if I couldn't have got it off again!
    Keith.
     
  7. Sep 16, 2017 #7
    paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Heat will break down the glue - watch out for the fumes tho'.

    Thread lock is the better solution as super glue needs oxygen to cure and works best on porous surfaces - like your fingers - don't ask :avatar:
     
  8. Sep 16, 2017 #8
    Gary

    Gary Wants more time for modelling.... Staff Member Administrator

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    Just a thought, can the shaft on the can motor be partially filed flat so that the grub screws tightens down on the flat filed surface of the shaft ?? The shaft would only need the width of the grub screw filed and not very deep either. I would still recommend the use of thread locker as mentioned above.

    Cheers, Gary.
     
  9. Sep 16, 2017 #9
    York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    Thanks everybody for all advice given ... thread lock it is on the next power bogie:thumbup:
    cheers Paul
     
  10. Sep 16, 2017 #10
    Kimbo

    Kimbo Staff Member Moderator

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    :thumbs: yep, that's the way to go, it's always worked for me.
    If you can Paul, it would be nice to see some build pictures :thumbs: Kim
     
  11. Sep 17, 2017 #11
    jakesdad13

    jakesdad13 Staff Member Moderator

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    Gary wrote:
    These motor shafts are made of an incredibly hard steel, they just laugh at files. The only way to make an impression on it would be with a Dremel type grinding wheel.

    Pete.
     
  12. Sep 17, 2017 #12
    York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    Kimbo wrote:
    Hi Kimbo, I'll certainly put up a few build pics of the Hymek... I've done things a bit differently in the bogie U frame construction and I've also a few ideas on a body frame structure. I'll load a few pics over the next dayor two.cheers Paul
     

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