Another "Judith Edge" kit.

Discussion in 'Kits, Kit bashes & Scratch builds' started by Keith M, Mar 11, 2020.

  1. Keith M

    Keith M Staff Member Moderator

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    Having just ground to a halt with the 5 Pullman coaches I'm modifying for my "Winston Churchill Funeral Train" as despite their being ready to reassemble, I'm awaiting delivery of some unpainted seated passengers for the coaches from China. Unfortunately, the situation in China being as it is, I don't anticipate delivery for a few weeks yet so decided to look at another kit purchase and chanced upon this kit for another of Mr Bulleid's designs, the 500hp Paxman engined prototype diesel shunter, BR number 11001. This had a fairly short life, as it was intended for 'heavy shunting' and main line use with a top speed of around 43 mph, but unfortunately it wasn't particularly good at either, and despite only having entered BR service in 1950, it was gone by 1959
    The kit is almost entirely brass fret with a few resin mouldings of the smaller components such as sand and battery boxes, all nice shiny frets and axle bearings, but unwrapping the brown paper from the box had me flummoxed initially... only the label in the bottom right corner gave it away!

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    Last edited: Mar 11, 2020
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  2. Keith M

    Keith M Staff Member Moderator

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    Opening the box, nicely tissue wrapped frets, and you'll notice overlays for the usual "Boxpok" wheels. That's because the correct size and pattern are unavailable currently, overlays will be applied to Gibson 4854S driving wheels.

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  3. Keith M

    Keith M Staff Member Moderator

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    A few other small components. Buffers are not supplied, but suggested are Gibson 4909 LNER/SR stepped parallel 16" head.

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  4. Keith M

    Keith M Staff Member Moderator

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    .....and seven A4 sheets of instructions/information/drawings etc.

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  5. Keith M

    Keith M Staff Member Moderator

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    Now I just need to order the wheelsets/buffers from Alan Gibson, only got their answerphone as they're busy, so got to await them returning my call. Once I get these, I can make a start, but I won't choose motor/gearbox yet, I'll wait until the body is built then see what space I have as no recommendations are given, just that "Almost anything should fit". With luck I might have some idea of size/space by the time York show comes around (if it's still on!) and if Chris Gibbon (Highlevel kits) is there like last year, then I can get a suitable one from him.
    Keith.
     
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  6. Bo-Bo

    Bo-Bo Full Member

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    Keith this looks like a lovely kit, look forward to seeing the build progress.
     
  7. Keith M

    Keith M Staff Member Moderator

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    So I set to and got the wheel bearings soldered into the side frames, then bent up and soldered in the 'L' shaped frame spacers (00 and EM gauge are supplied). With that done, and the chassis fitted into my assembly jig, the remaining straight spacers were sprung into position and soldered. All seems true so far, but I'll cut out and try the connecting rods on the test axle ends in case slight bearing adjustment is needed. The fourth set of bearings (to the right in this pic) is for the jackshaft so I'll need to swap one of the test axles to that position and check with the appropriate conrods. Drive can be either front (furtherest away from the jackshaft) or centre axle of the six driving wheels, but that'll be decided on depending on motor/gearbox choice later. Chassis will be cleaned up when bearing positions have been checked and adjusted if necessary. Wheelsets/buffers have now been ordered so further progress will likely be dependant on their arrival.

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  8. Bo-Bo

    Bo-Bo Full Member

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    Keith nice start to the build, I like your assembly jig.:thumbup:
     
  9. Keith M

    Keith M Staff Member Moderator

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    So plodding on with this build, I moved on to the body and got this well on the way to being ready for spraying, though there are a few 'bits and bobs' still to fit including some resin parts, but we're getting there! (Think British Rail used that slogan once upon a time, though not sure they've actually got there yet!!!)

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  10. Keith M

    Keith M Staff Member Moderator

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    Like the "Fell" kit I did recently, it's not a kit for a novice (says He confidently :hammer:). There are lots of bits so tiny as to be almost impossible to hold even in tweezers and there are times I question both my sanity and choice of '00' gauge when '0' gauge would be so much easier (I think). Some bits are so small it takes me all my time to see them never mind solder them in place, but I'm just pressing on.......we'll get there.......eventually!

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  11. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    The results are excellent, especially when you realize the pictures are greater than life size.
    I thought the move up to O gauge would make things easier to see and build, nah doesn't quite work that way, you now have to add more finer details as you can see them :facepalm:, and often with all scales we put detail in that no one will ever see, but we know its there :facepalm:

    So keep the updates comming

    Paul
     
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  12. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    Or............ you could just buy highly detailed O Gauge kits and leave them in your wardrobe, garden shed, under the stairs, in the loft............. :avatar:
     
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  13. Gary

    Gary Currently Unemployed ! Staff Member Administrator

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    Nice handy work Keith. Maybe I should have a crack at one of my brass kits I have, either the OO or the O gauge...

    Cheers, Gary.
     
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  14. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    Go for it Gary... have you a particular one in mind ?
     
  15. Keith M

    Keith M Staff Member Moderator

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    At least there is no 'white metal' in this model Gary, so normal electronics solder is the way to go, assembled using the gas torch and phosphoric acid flux rather than an electric soldering iron. It can get very addictive though and I'm already considering a 'South Eastern Finecast' "River Class" tank loco even though they were converted to tender loco's well before the era I model after a serious accident.
    Keith.
     
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  16. Gary

    Gary Currently Unemployed ! Staff Member Administrator

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    Not at this current time, but maybe later in life when I retire I'll decide !! ;);)

    Cheers, Gary.
     
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  17. Keith M

    Keith M Staff Member Moderator

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    Plodding on with this kit, I made up the coupling rods. As with other jointed rods I've made up previously, I don't use the supplied rivets (I'm not a rivet counter anyway!:giggle::giggle:) instead I use my supply of brass Lacemakers pins, these are 0.55mm diameter and about 10mm long, much easier to work with as I can at least see them, which is more than can be said for some of the rivets! How I go about this is as follows. Once the rods to be jointed have been drilled out enough to clear the 0.55mm pins, using a 2mm bit I 'countersink' the rear of the innermost rod, put a pin through the outer rod joint, then impale a small piece of thin paper between outer and inner of the joint, finally passing the pin through the inner part of the joint. Turning the assembly over, I add a tiny drop of flux into the 'countersink', followed by an equally tiny piece of solder, then apply the gas torch until the solder melts around the pin end and into the 'countersink' area. Once cooled, I snip off the excess pin, file the joint flush with the back of the rod, tear out the piece of paper (which then gives the joint operating clearance) and that's it, job done! I find this far easier than faffing about trying to see/hold/position and finally attempt to peen over the end of a rivet of such tiny proportions that it's difficult to see the blessed things!
    Anyway, rods made up, with a pin alongside for comparison, and the box if anyone needs a reference to get some.

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    Last edited: Mar 27, 2020
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  18. Keith M

    Keith M Staff Member Moderator

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    I've also been making up the brackets which hold the brake shoes in position, rather small and fiddly, and again I've used the brass pins rather than short bits of brass wire to 'hang' the shoes on, By doing it this way, at least the pin head prevents the wire from falling out of the bracket should I inadvertently give the joint too much heat. The 'double' brackets fit between the 3 sets of driving wheels, the 'single' ones at each end, and I foresee a modicum of cursing will be involved in fitting these. No details are seemingly available regarding the cab interior, so I 'Guesstimated' a sort of crude 'control panel', brass pins again coming in handy to represent levers. The complete panel will be glued in before fitting the cab roof.

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  19. Keith M

    Keith M Staff Member Moderator

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    Having made up the rod sets, I though it might be a good idea to check them on the chassis to ensure correct alignment. I only have 3 check axles, so had to do this in 2 stages, here's the main conrods, which dropped on nicely.

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  20. Keith M

    Keith M Staff Member Moderator

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    Finally the other set of rods, which also fitted nicely, which means at least that everything lines up ok and all is well so far.

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