Another kit to build! (Keysers 'T9'.)

Whilst mooching about on Ebay yesterday, I came across a 'part-built' Keysers kit for the Southern Region 'T9', with about 6 minutes to run, and no bids. I sat it out and bid in the last 10 seconds as I usually do, and won at the minimum price of £45. I've not bothered with the Hornby 'T9', as I've read on a few forums that there have been a number of 'chassis rot' problems that I can do without, and this kit is complete with all the bits, including motor and gearbox apparently. Although it's yet another project for my ever growing list, I may look at finishing this before starting my 'GT3' kit build, just for the practice, before I start with the more expensive stuff. So many projects, so little time!!!

Keith.

 

Well, the kits arrived, I've had a good look through the box contents, and all seems to be there. It's not a Keysers kit though, it's an LSWR kit. Instruction leaflets with it are typewritten, which rather dates it a bit, and there is also a page from a magazine (dated 1983) which announces the kit, only 100 of which were made. There are parts to make either the original 1899 version, or the Urie superheated version, which is the version I will build (or rather, complete). The build done by A.N. Other is quite well executed so far, so no need for any dismantling, and there is a set of lost wax brass casting parts which were listed as an extra (for £1-15s), and four brass sprung buffers too. The motor looks a little dated compared to todays 'can' types, but like the old 'Saxa' salt adverts, we'll "See how it runs!" Here's what was in the box.

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.......and the 4 pages of 'destructions!'

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The magazine page featuring the kits introduction.

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So there it is in all it's 'glory' or not, depending on whether I can sort it out. Some aspects of the instructions are not particularly clear, which could mean some research on my part (don't know if 'LSWR Kits' are still in business or been taken over). The castings are of a far higher standard than those of the MTK Class 73 I recently completed (thank goodness!), and the kit also has the adaptability for EM or 00 gauge and use as a stationery model or a runner. I think I will probably look at completing the tender first, but will need to source some 2mm fibre washers (not supplied) which are the spacers required for the tender axles. Watch this space!
Keith.

 

Toto wrote:

I'll be interested in your soldering method on the white metal. [/quote]

So will I Toto!!!

Keith.

 

To answer your question Paul, I don't know, I just ordered a couple of packs of 20 from 'Eileens Emporium', 2mm hole, and since they are red fibre, I'm assuming I can pare them down thickness-wise if I need to. It's really just to take up the slack between chassis and rear of the wheels, but as it will need some slight sideplay, I think 'near enough' should be good enough, and the tender is an 8 wheeled 'double bogie' type which should be ok on tighter curves. At least now I have 'back-to-back' gauge and wheelpress to assist the build, and today I received my 4mm 'Poppy's Woodtech' Loco Builder Box, so should be good to go when the washers arrive (had the email to say they're despatched).
Keith.

 

Glued the builder box up yesterday afternoon and started Aralditing the tender bogies together, but doubt I'll get much else done today as Mrs M and self have a 15 mile drive to Sons to collect Grandsons from school and 'supervise' until Son is home from work. A couple of hours with Grandsons and I'll be too knackered to do much else than collapse into the armchair when we get back!!!
Keith.

 

Received the fibre washers from 'Eileen's Emporium' today. Since Paul asked the size, outside diameter is 4mm, thickness 0.4mm. Hole diameter is supposed to be 2mm, but is actually just under, since I had to open out the holes with a broach to get them to fit on the 2mm tender axles.
Keith.

 

Done a bit more work on the tender now. There are 2 alternative bogies supplied, the side frame version with all the spring detail is intended for stationary models, as the assembly stops the bogies pivoting. The basic version with no spring detail is intended for the 'running' version, but me being picky (or awkward, depending on your point of view!), I want the spring detail bogie and need it to pivot too. I deduced that if I reduced the depth of the two rails running down the tender central underside, it would allow this type of bogie to pivot, so after time spent with junior hacksaw and file, the bogies would indeed now pivot as required. Pic below shows tender underside with reduced height central rails, and the two variations of bogie pattern supplied.

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With the detailed bogies now glued up, I pressed the tender wheels onto the axles and checked them with the back-to-back gauge. Good job I got the 2mm fibre washers as I'll need a few to take up the slack! Having attached the bogies to the tender, I thought I'd have a quick look where and how I might need to modify the buffer beam to fit my 'standard fit' Kadee couplings, checking against my Kadee height gauge. I think I can get away with just cutting a horizontal slot in the buffer beam and Aralditing an overset coupling into the slot, so that's sorted, but I'll not fit the coupling until the tender is complete and the main body painted. This is the tender underside with bogies in position.

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Now with the wheels temporarily fitted (and the left bogie the wrong way around!), it's beginning to look something like the photo's I have of the tender.....some further detailing parts are still to be fitted yet though, and next job will be sorting out the brake gear, which from the look of the diagrams, will be fun, brass wire to either Araldite or solder through the bogies to hang tiny brake shoes onto, then take the wheels off again to paint the bogies.

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When it came to fitting the tender brake gear, one or two snags became obvious. If, as per the instructions, I used 1mm brass wire through each bogie to mount the white metal brake shoes on, due to the closeness of shoes to wheels, it was highly likely to cause a short circuit across these shoes and wheels so a 'work-around' became necessary. I decided to use 1mm plastic rod, thereby insulating the shoes from side to side.......only problem was that I hadn't any on stock. Eventually, I realised that I had some 1mm optic fibre left from some of my lighting experiments, so I used that. Having completed fitting the 8 brake shoes, I then saw that due to the closeness of each bogie set, it was not possible for the bogies to pivot on curves as one set of shoes was obstructing the other bogie. The only remedy was to 'amputate' the offending rod and shoes to provide clearance, duly done! Here are the two painted bogies fitted with the fibre optic rods.

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