Bending Tender Flares and other long but narrow bends

Discussion in 'Hints & Tips' started by Rob Pulham, Sep 27, 2018.

  1. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    As promised on my J6 Build thread after bending the curves in the tender flares I took a series of photos using a piece of scrap to demonstrate how easy it is using a variation of a method described to me by someone on RMweb years ago.

    He used the thick rubber heel design for replacing worn ones on shoes I use one of the rubber safe jaws of my Proxxon Vice.

    First of all I just use the one soft jaw. You will note that the soft jaw has a thick triangular section that fits in the V groove of the hard vice jaw.

    [​IMG]

    opposite that to form the longitudinal curve I use one of the lengths of rod that came with my Metalsmith drilling table.
    [​IMG]

    Next I fit the strip to have the flare bent in it into the vice between the soft jaw and the rod using the opposite V groove to hold the rod in position and ensure that the bend is going into the thickest part of the rubber soft jaw.

    [​IMG]

    Once you are happy with the position tighten the jaws to create the bend

    In this photo you can just see where it's pushing against the thicker bit of rubber in the V groove

    [​IMG]

    Finally a couple of shots of the finished bend.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
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  2. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    It is worth noting that the piece of scrap used for the demonstration piece is full thickness whereas usually tender flares have been halfetches to help them bend easier.
     
  3. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Clever stuff.
     
  4. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    :thumbs: :thumbs: Now just need to remember where this is for time I need it :whatever:

    Paul
     
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  5. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    That's why I did it as a separate thread to my build thread. It would have got lost over time in there.
     
  6. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Good thinking captain.
     
  7. jakesdad13

    jakesdad13 Staff Member Moderator

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    Very useful tip Rob, I have wondered a few times how to go about it as the thought of messing it up put me off doing flared tender locos.

    Cheer's, Pete.
     
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  8. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    Thanks for that great tip Rob, I have the body side fairings on the Class 21 to curve soon and these have three half etch lines on the reverse...the fairing etch is the length of the loco body so presumably its a case of feeding the etch across the bar bending incrementally.
     
  9. Timbersurf

    Timbersurf

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    Y.Paul/Toto, given the investment you guys have made in kits, I would not preclude purchasing one of these, seems a pretty good deal given its 3 in 1 function, I am seriously considering one and I don't even need it! It's a good tip Rob, but assumes you have that vice with the V's in :oops: (or do all kit guys inherently have a proxxon vice! :giggle:)
     
  10. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    Thanks for the link Timbersurf that looks like a strong piece of kit. The Proxxon vice is a cracking thing and its angle and direction is adjustable via a ball joint coupling, the rubber pads fit nicely into the Vee slots on the jaws. Rob's vice has the holding down base whereas mine has the vacuum pad which sticks like the old proverbial on my bench edged with the UPVc Eurocell cladding.
     
  11. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    Hi Timbs,

    I suspect not but they are not expensive to buy when compared to the cost of even a wagon kit.

    Regards Rob
     
  12. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    I think mine was £26 in a sale, the other type with provision for bolting down onto a work station surface are around £37, these vices are just the ticket for our small engineering type jobs but probably would suit heavier metalwork bashes where a Stanley or Record vice would be better.
     

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