What card do you guys use for constructing buildings to be covered with brick paper? In OO gauge if that makes any difference.
I use 2mm mounting board, as in picture framing. You can buy it at art supply shops, it`s comes in various colours and it is very strong when cut down to model size. I also use cereal box card ( 1mm ) for thinner applications, although if you laminate the cereal box card, it gains considerable strength as well. The laminating allows you to create an interior wall and then create an external wall and then glue the two pieces together. I have two videos covering a coal office build where I used the mounting board....the result was extremely robust. https://platform1mrc.com/p1mrc/index.php?threads/episode-112-18-scratch-built-buildings-pt-1.3402/ https://platform1mrc.com/p1mrc/index.php?threads/episode-113-18-scratch-built-buildings-pt-2.3434/ Gormo
I use different thickness grey board, most of the models I do are multi layer and this makes for amazing strength in the completed model. The Tudor buildings I made using mount board from a picture framer and that is really good material, it just takes a bit of work to cut so a sharp knife is needed. The Red Lion which was the POTW was made in 1982 so it says a lot for the longeveity of card models.
Something to keep in mind when buying card is the gsm and ums. UMS is sometimes referred to as 'microns'. GSM refers to the 'grams per square metre' and UMS is the 'thickness'. You will find that grey board and/or box board comes in a variety of sizes and UMS. Size isn't a matter, although this depends on the size of the model you are intending to build. The UMS is important. To make it simpler for you, 600ums = 0.6mm, 1000ums = 1mm, 1800ums is 1.8mm and so on... To give you an idea of the GSM/UMS ratio, take a look at the column down the left hand side of the page on this website : https://plazadj.com.au/shop/boxboard-c-252/?zenid=5r90leca74od6iqjntob5hcr26 Cheers, Gary.
Thanks Gary, that is interesting and a great site for product. I have registered with them and placed an order for some specialty product I have been looking for. Excellent.
One trick I learned a few years ago was to make sure you have odd layers. If you have two layers stuck back to back, they can sometimes pull against one another when your glues set causing warping. The third layer for some reason cancelled this out. I also used to cover mine in das modelling clay, but, before I did I coated it in woodknot resin as that soaked in and kept the moisture of the clay out the card (again stopping warping) the said model is still standing in one piece.
I've used 3mm foam board for some building construction, the type with a paper layer on each side. It cuts easily and cleanly and makes a good solid building. Keith.
As I rarely model in 00 these days, I still like to use card for some models. Like Keith I use foam board for building carcasses though in my case in 5mm thickness. Card like paper blunts knife blades in no time at all, so a fresh blade changed regularly is important. I use a small, really cheap, 69p snap off blade knife, there's about 8 blades ( I haven't counted them ) bought from a small thrift type shop local to me. To glue the brick paper to the carcasse I use Pritt Stick heavy duty, it sticks like p** to a blanket! Pete.
