DC Motor Speed Controller,6-28V 3A

Discussion in 'DC Control' started by paul_l, Jul 9, 2020.

  1. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Fun time ....... :whatever:

    Connections to the controller couldn't be simpler - 4 terminal connections


    Which are Left to Right 1 & 2 - Track, 3 +ve Supply, 4 -ve supply


    Without the meter just connect the 4 wires and jobs a guddun.

    Test No. 1 - just connect it up - it WORKS :handshake:



    Ran for over an hour at approx 5V and heat sink is still cold.
    Lowest voltage is approx 1.4V, test loco was a new straight out of the box Ixion Fowler 0-4-0T Mechanical shunter.

    The meter next

    Paul
     
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  2. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Can you change direction with it or is that a manual polarity change with the wires ?
     
  3. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Hi Toto


    Direction is controlled by the switch below the knob.



    The meter is a DSN-VC288 - a search online gave this diagram, be carefull as there are several different versions of these meters that look very similar, but the wire colours differ within the 3 pin plug.

    The wiring also differs if the supply voltage is greater than 30V. if so then meter needs a separate 4V to 30V DC supply.
    As I am using a 12V I can use the same supply for both the meter and the speed controller.

    Pin outs

    3 Pin
    Red VCC - supply +ve
    Black GND - supply -ve
    Yellow VIN - voltage being measured.

    2 Pin (heavy cable)
    Red I+
    Black I-


    I found this diagram to base my connections on.

    [​IMG]

    So far I have the Ammeter working, but the voltmeter is still a work in progress as the reading is backwards (inverted 12V when off and 0V when at full throttle) so I need to find the correct location to take the reading, and the ammeter reading is for the whole current consumtion.
    However that alone fulfills the reason for me building this controller.

    Paul
     
  4. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Just a pic of the display powered on - the voltage still works the wrong way round


    when the power is turned off the voltage reads 12.1V, when turned to full the voltage is down to zero, on the track the voltage is the other way round.
    I could just measure the input voltage....

    Paul
     
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  5. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Full Member

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    Er, does the swapping wires over not do the trick or does that bring a -v ?

    “just reverse the polarity” to coin a movie phrase :avatar:
     
  6. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Tried that, Connected at the input to the DPDT switch, I either get the reverse voltage 12.1V down to 0V, or connecting to the other terminal I get a straight 12.1V despite the setting of the throttle.

    My next experiment will be to try a separate 5V power supply for the meter only.

    May have to get the oscilloscope out - but that is starting to sound like hard work :facepalm:

    Paul
     
  7. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Back to the case

    The connectors have arrived, and need a 11mm dia hole, I tried to open them out with a drill (can't find my taper reamer), and broke the back face.

    Well i was going to have to add ventillation holes as well, so here is v2

    upload_2020-7-18_16-53-33.png

    Provision for a 40mm dia fan - I have some so will need to find them.

    9hr 52m later, clean up and temp fitting of the connectors




    Paul
     
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  8. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Full Member

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    Oh the joys of having a decent and working printer :facepalm:
     
  9. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    A bigger working printer would be better tho' - it's on Santa's wish list, however Mrs Claus seems to be raising the bar to get onto the good boys list :whatever:.

    Going off topic, I have been gathering the components to rebuild my CTC FDM 3D filament printer, upgrading the control board to a MKS SBase v1.3 - 32bit controller card, an E3D hot end and a bowden conversion, maybe drop down to a single extruder, and extend the build plate size.

    Paul
     
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  10. Kimbo

    Kimbo Staff Member Moderator

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    :whatever::(:confused::faint:
     
  11. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Full Member

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    Mines stopped working due to a stepper motor issue. It’s the X Axis which is known to have issues due to the cable movement. New one on order. See what happens.
     
  12. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Andy, have you tried just replacing the 4 wire cable to the stepper - just cut the cables about 1" from each end and splice in the cable.

    Paul
     
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  13. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Full Member

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    No, ordered a new one for about £2.
     
  14. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Maybe worth looking at a cable schlep to run the cables in to protect them

    upload_2020-7-23_22-25-29.png

    Paul
     
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  15. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Full Member

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    true, but if it’s only cost me £2 to repair in 5 years, I don’t think that’s too bad! :giggle:
     

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