Thanks guys, I will finish the wiring first and then attack the decoders...... a bit daunting at the moment!!!
It doesn't have to be difficult we are all here to help. The first thing you have done in your favour is raise the subject. It's just a case of raising any questions you have as you progress. Nobody will tire of answering them When I first started out on railway forums, I did not have a clue and had to ask questions, hundreds of them. As it happens, that is when I met Gary, Gormo and a whole load of other members who were only too happy to help and advise. Apart from building up a good friendship, that is why I am confident that I have chosen well in appointing the moderators that we have here ...... Their desire to help others and their genuine interest in every bodies posts and progress. There are many other members who are the same but unfortunately I can't ask them all to be mods. Just dive in with your questions and do as I did ( and still do ) and keep asking the question until you get the answer back in a format that YOU understand now matter how often you need to ask it. We have all been there. I for one am looking forward to watching your progress and will be only too happy to jump in when your questions arise as will the others. Cheers for now and enjoy Toto
Hi Whaler do you have a list of the locos that you need to put decoders into? It may well be that some one on the forum has already installed a decoder in one of your models and will be able to help you out. I've done a couple myself Kim
Kimbo and all, the first loco I will attack will be the following: The Decoder I am using is a DCC MC1Z102SQ, having removed the body I can see 2 wires going to the rear drive wheels and 2 going to the front light. Do I cut the decoder wires and if so how best to determine the length, and how much should I leave of the original wires? How do I know which is the positive & negative wires? I have read something about a resistance being needed before the light? Any other suggestions would be appreciated. Ron http://www.click
DCC Whaler? .. fire extinguisher? .. silver bullet? .. priest?.. that should cover it .. they're drawing you in ..! Ian vt
Hi Ron, The first thing to do is find a nice flat spot to secure the decoder to, looking at your photo I would suggest between the motor and the light bulb, use double sided tape. I would have the wires facing the motor end. De-solder / cut the wires from the motor terminals and split the bulb wires from them. This will leave you with two wires from the rear wheels (track pickups) and two wires to the bulb.[/*] Cut the two track pickup wires back to around the area at the side of the motor and position one each side of the motor. Slide a length of heat shrink on and strip back about 3mm of wire ready to solder the decoder wires to them.[/*] the red and black wires from the decoder can now be routed down each side of the motor and cut at the required length to meet the pickup wires.[/*] solder these wires together and cover with the heat shrink or use electrical tape to protect the joint.[/*] now offer the grey and orange wires up to the motor terminals and solder in place.[/*] At this point I would set up your dcc programming track and program the decoder running number. Make sure you only use the programming option on the NCE hand set (switch on and press "prog/esc and then button 4 " display will read "USE PROGRAM TRK" CLICK ENTER then click 1 "STD" - SETUP ) [/*] Once you have set up the running number then press ESC button to return to main track power. Operate the locomotive in forward direction, if it does not go forward but instead goes back wards then you will need to swap the orange and grey wire on the motor terminals which will correct this fault.[/*] Re the bulb, I have always changed bulbs on loco install. I would use a 3mm white or proto white led and wire it up using a resistor of at least 1k value. The reason for this is that bulbs run hot, leds run cool and seem to offer a better lighting control when lighting effects are required. (Jaycar suppliers will have the LED's in stock) Wiring is just a case of soldering the blue wire to the long leg of the LED and soldering the white wire via a resistor to the short leg. This will then mean that when the loco runs forward the light will work if the headlight function button is on, but in reverse the light will go out. If you want the light to stay on all the time then you will need to alter a cv number. We can do this later.[/*] Kim
Hi Ron, Here is a great book that will help you understand all things DCC : https://www.bookdepository.com/Basic-DCC-Wiring-for-Your-Model-Railroad-Mike-Polsgrove/9780890247938?redirected=true&utm_medium=Google&utm_campaign=Base3&utm_source=AU&utm_content=Basic-DCC-Wiring-for-Your-Model-Railroad&selectCurrency=AUD&w=AF45AU9SK2QXCMA80CCDA7YD&pdg=kwd-104398008339:cmp-680104063:adg-35441289072:crv-151945028117id-9780890247938:dev-c&gclid=CKvlyPiIl9QCFZCSvQod-LYJCg Bonus free postage ! Cheers, Gary.
Hi Kim, Many thanks for your tutorial, just wondering how I treat the 2 wires going to the front wheels which then continue on to the bulb? Gary thanks for pointing out the book which I will order. Ron
Hi Ron, sorry, missed that in the picture. So there is front and rear bogie power pickups, so all you need to do is firstly cut the bulb wires off. Unsolder the wires from the motor, which will then be soldered to the red and black on the decoder. Orange and grey then solder to the motor. I'll get a basic drawing over to you. Kim
So this is the layout of the wiring as the model stands ? This is how it needs to be wired. I've shown it with the wiring for an LED and a 1K resistor. Does that help ? Kim