The DCC decoder fom John at YouChoos arived in the week, so today's little job was to install it in the Sancheng Fowler 4F I picked up a couple of weeks ago. I'm using my normal choice of decoder, Zimo MX645R with a large stay-alive First job is to remove the small brass screw on the draw bar linking the tender to the loco Then remove the 4 small screws, 2 at the front and two at the rear, to allow the body to be removed from the chassis Chassis removed, you can see what a neat little unit this is. I've been running the model on a TCS decoder, that I have used in OO gauge rolling stock, to test and run the locomotive in. The hole into which all the bits and bobs will have to pass through. Speaker selection needs to be a careful choice so that all the electronics fit through the access hole and can then be pushed back into the boiler. I normally like to drill out the chimney hole. As the brass is quite thin its an easy job to do with a small drill then open out with a reaming tool. This I have found easier to do than using a large drill as the metal can heat up quickly and you don't want anything un-soldering. I do the same on plastic o gauge and oo gauge locos. Trying out several speakers and stay-alives to see what will fit in. I ended up using a Zimo LS55x22x9 4ohm 2 watt twin speaker in a 3d printed enclosure. These speakers give excellent loud sound. (to loud sometimes but the volume settings can be altered at set up} Soldering up the track power wires and motor wires is a simple job. All the joints are then insulated I found that I could tape a large stay-alive to the back of the speaker which passed through the access hole and slid into the boiler easily followed by the decoder. I like to insulate all the wires and joins on these speakers when fitting into a brass locomotive. Next job is to set it up on the program track and set the cab number plus set the chuff rate to the wheel revolutions.