DJH 8F Build

Discussion in 'Kits, Kit bashes & Scratch builds' started by Kimbo, Sep 18, 2020.

  1. Kimbo

    Kimbo Staff Member Moderator

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    This will be the new build thread for the 8F, a recap on what’s in the box of the DJH kit from Tower Models.








     
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  2. Kimbo

    Kimbo Staff Member Moderator

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    Like the Q1 build I’ve decided to start the tender first as per the enclosed instruction sheet. I’ve also decided to try and get some paint onto the completed sub assemblies to avoid the inevitable cleaning processes.

    ‘Straight forward chassis to bend up, then solder 4 outer bearings and two larger inner bearings, these will help the model around tight curves. Plus the drawbar pin needs to be soldered in.




    Checking the chassis is nice and square using the Slaters axles, I then added the 2 spacer sub assemblies, one of which at the rear will hold the tender water scoop.


    a little bit of clean up on these two parts and also a few holes to drill out.


    add the brake shoes and rear check for both square and clearance of the brakes against the wheels.....all good


    viewed from below, the tab and slot method of construction, plus very clear drawings and instructions makes this build a dream....


    wheels stripped off the chassis and blackened out with gun blue as from the moment you take Slaters wheels out of their packaging they start to rust up. I’m going to clean up the axles as well and add a drop of oil to hopefully protect them.


    chassis cleaned whilst this was going on and outside drying ready for a spray coat of etching primer, followed by a coat of black enamel paint.

    should have this section finished off tonight ready to move onto the tender body.
     
  3. paul blythe

    paul blythe Full Member

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    Looks interesting. I built the 4mm version many years ago. This looks to be almost a 7mm blow up of that kit. i dont remember having much trouble building it.
     
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  4. pertyowl

    pertyowl Full Member

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    Hi Kim,
    Looking forward to the build and more complex build than the Q1 with all that Valve Gear.
    The Dodgey one.
     
  5. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Looking good Kimbo. Following this all the way.

    Cheers

    Toto
     
  6. Kimbo

    Kimbo Staff Member Moderator

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    cheers Roger....thanks for reminding me ! :avatar:
     
  7. Kimbo

    Kimbo Staff Member Moderator

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    Today’s efforts....


    Re assemble chassis now that the paint has dried



    Next sub assemble is the tender body. Sides and rear are one fret which just need two bends to form.


    tabs and slots make this a very easy assembly to put together. I just tacked it down and checked all the alignments were correct, followed by a bead of solder on the inside to give a nice clean joint.




    Front hand rails next, these are fitted on short hand rail knobs.


    Rear hand rails are just .7 mm wire bent to shape



    Side frames just need the support tabs bent down....and then a long rivet detailing fret sweated along the panel.


    then solder up, again a tack each end and one in the middle, check square, then add a bead of solder along the joint


    castings required minor clean up and there is a very satisfying “click” as they go into position. Soldered up on the inside plus a 1mm rod added to reinforce the side panels, just visible in this picture.


    front steps are a nice bend up etch with a couple of fiddly rivet details to sweat together


    rear steps are a similar assembly. So here’s the end result for today.




     
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  8. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    Lovely loco and a lovely build with very clean lines... am following your thread Kim with avid interest... nice work mate:tophat::thumbup:
     
  9. Keith M

    Keith M Staff Member Moderator

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    That's gone together quickly Kim, maybe I ought to try a different flux as your build is far cleaner than mine. I use Phosphoric acid which does the business but it's blooming messy and more work to clean up . What do you use? Although I have a couple of brands of paste flux which I use for plumbing jobs on occasion, I won't use that for modelling as it's worse than the acid flux.
    Keith.
     
  10. Kimbo

    Kimbo Staff Member Moderator

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    Keith, I use an Australian distributor:-

    http://www.brunelhobbies.com.au/soldering/solderFlux.htm

    for new kits (or very clean brass) I use no 2 and wipe the joint with a tissue straight after. I’m learning that you only need a very small amount of flux.
    I used to be a C.O.R.G.I engineer in the uk and when we moved over I bought all my solders sticks and fluxes with me, but soon learnt that they are far from suitable for this fine type of work. I’m sure Rob will point you in the right direction for a good uk supplier, other wise let me know and I’ll post you some out.

    re the kit....I’m really enjoying the build, it just does what it says in the instructions, click together and solder. I’ve only had to fettle one section so far but only because of my needs to get a large decoder into the tender.....see pictures in the next build post.
     
  11. Kimbo

    Kimbo Staff Member Moderator

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    Today’s session.....

    add buffer beams and rear buffers.


    the first rivet detailing I’ve had to punch out ! And I probably won’t be using the piece in the build.....it’s the coal shoot inner lining


    now some fiddly detailing.....steps are easy but the small rivet overlays are a nice challenge..



    next up, two sub assemblies, front and rear, these again go together so simply.....the rivet detailing around the rear panel is still to be done.


    Tender face...



    rear tender section tacked in place


    test fit of the tender front


    then solder it in and add remaining white metal and brass detailing


    next up is a deviation from the instructions. I need space for a large decoder and as it will not fit in the loco, I need space in the tender so the lining sheet with rivet detailing has to be left out, well most of it. But the tool storage tube need to be installed so I’ve added this and soldered it front and rear



    As there is a large hole where the coal is shovelled from I need to finish off the back on the front panel, so I’ve cut the inner lining down and soldered that into the opening. I will make a false removable panel to hide the decoder later.


    so that’s it for this session, time for a good clean and get the work bench cleaned off....is it only me that makes a big mess ?
     
    Last edited: Sep 20, 2020
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  12. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    You are making light work of this Kimbo. Looks great.

    Toto
     
  13. Kimbo

    Kimbo Staff Member Moderator

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    Hi Toto, it is a very easy kit (so far) to put together. Totally opposite to the Q1 build. But this is just the tender, I’ve got all those loverly rods to sort out yet.
    This will be the first ever build I’ve done where more than two rods were required each side.....there’s 1x large etch of them to sort out. :facepalm:
    Plus I’m thinking of fitting horn blocks to her so I will have to wait for my order to come arrive from the UK
     
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  14. Kimbo

    Kimbo Staff Member Moderator

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    As I’ve decided to fit Hornblocks , I can’t start the chassis for the loco, so I’ve had a read through all the instruction sheets ( I know, shock horror, he reads instructions) and there are plenty of assembly jobs I can do until they arrive. So the first two jobs were ticked off today.

    ‘First up, the front bogie assemble.


    these two parts need soldering together and the axle frame bent up and soldered



    white metal detailing parts plus the wheel bearings next, plus a couple of wheel guards need bending up. I’m not fitting the axle and wheels at this stage.


    Finished assembly.



    ‘Next up the boiler back head.


    first job to try and identify all the parts and lay them out on the instructions.


    good picture included in the instructions which is slightly different from the supplied components but close enough to be able to try a represent what’s there.
    So after a few enjoyable hours soldering and bending wire, I’ve ended up with this.


    there are a couple of additional items to add but the instruction state that these cannot be fitted until the assemble is fitted in the cab.
    So two jobs done.
     
  15. Kimbo

    Kimbo Staff Member Moderator

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    Found a couple of pipes I missed yesterday so added those in and positioned in the cab to see how it will look.


     
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  16. RALPH

    RALPH Full Member

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    Glad this BUILD is going well for you Kim, you must also have plenty of patience, very well done so far :thumbs: :tophat:
     
  17. Kimbo

    Kimbo Staff Member Moderator

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    Cheers mate.....no idea where I get it from :scratchchin:
     
  18. Kimbo

    Kimbo Staff Member Moderator

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    Instructions show that the cab needs to be built as a sub assembly so onwards and forwards with the build.

    window frames first.



    then it’s a simple task to bend up the floor and sides...plus a test fit of all the internal bits.


    next job is to solder a sub floor section to the cab frame, instructions again tell you to make sure this is all square.


    tabs and slots soldered up



    now I’ve gone away from the instructions here as I want to try and make the cab roof removable, so to keep the cab frame square I’ve soldered the roof support in, added the “timber” effect floor which traps the fall plates, allowing them to move freely. Also time to add the frame fixing nuts. These are hidden by the backhead. Hand rails and cab doors also added.


    and a second picture showing the r/h fall plate in the down position.

     
  19. Walkingthedog

    Walkingthedog Full Member

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    Brilliant
     
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  20. Kimbo

    Kimbo Staff Member Moderator

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    Cheers Walkingthedog :thumbup:
     

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