Glueing track

Discussion in 'Glues' started by Ruston, Feb 12, 2021.

  1. Ruston

    Ruston Full Member

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    I'm stuck on what glue I should use when glueing my track to a baseboard.
     
  2. Walkingthedog

    Walkingthedog Full Member

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    Are you going to ballast it.

    I alway pin my track down using Gaugemaster track pins. They are very sharp and have a nice flat head, bit like me.

    They can be pushed into the baseboard with the end of some pliers or similar.

    If you then ballast the track the pins can be removed later, I don’t bother, you can only see them if you search for them.
     
  3. Ruston

    Ruston Full Member

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    Hi Brian yes I will be ballasting some parts of the track.
     
  4. Walkingthedog

    Walkingthedog Full Member

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    In that case the PVA used to fix the ballast will hold the track. Pinning it down means you will be able to change it slightly (or a lot) if necessary.

    I added a bit to my post above your last reply.
     
  5. Ruston

    Ruston Full Member

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    Silly me Brian, I should have read the message properly. Thank for the information.:thumbs:
     
  6. Walkingthedog

    Walkingthedog Full Member

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    Think I edited it while you were replying..
     
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  7. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    I'm also a PVA user, but will use a screw with a washer between the sleepers as a temp fixing for alignment, then place pieces of ply, melamine etc plus weights to hold it all flat.

    If you think you may need to lift the track, then maybe try a rubber latex based glue - e.g. Copydex.

    Paul
     
  8. Gary

    Gary Wants more time for modelling.... Staff Member Administrator

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    PVA is the easiest to use laying track and as Paul said, weigh it down overnight. I spread an even thick layer over the baseboard about an inch wide, pin the track then weigh down. Remove the pins after the track/glue has cured.

    You can lift the track easily if you mist the track with warm water to help soften the PVA. Use a spatula under the track for ease of lifting. ;)

    Actually, I have to do this to my layout I'm currently building.... :whatever:

    Cheers, Gary.
     
  9. Ruston

    Ruston Full Member

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    Thanks for all the advice.:thumbs:
     
  10. Walkingthedog

    Walkingthedog Full Member

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    Drawing pins are good for a temporary fix. I guess the rule is don’t glue it down until you are sure the track is in the correct place and that locos work on it.
     
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  11. jakesdad13

    jakesdad13 Staff Member Moderator

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    I have used pva to fix the track down and drawing pins to hold it in place until the pva has dried. The only thing I was worried about was the pva softening when I glued the ballast but fortunately it didn't happen.

    Pete.
     
  12. Walkingthedog

    Walkingthedog Full Member

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    If you hold the track with drawing pins there is no need to glue it as well because it will become glued down when you apply the ballast. You are just glueing it twice.
     
  13. Echidna

    Echidna Full Member

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    Hello All,

    Walkingthedog's advice seems a sensible approach. I have used Rogue Manufacturing's Ballast glue, which I understand to be a very thinned carpet to floor glue, similar glue is available from Bunning's among others, as Rogue Manufacturing is now defunct, due to the passing of the owner .

    When I first used it, I was rather dubious of its ability hold the track base to, in this case, cork, however after it dried out, it held the track bed in place. I have subsequently been advised that its thinness was deliberate, as it is intended to be used to hold both the ballast and the track in place, and crucially, allow it to be lifted at a later dated by wetting ( dampening, not flooding ) the formation, and lifting with a spatula, with no or minimal damage the track base.

    Regards, Echidna
     
  14. Walkingthedog

    Walkingthedog Full Member

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    Ah Bunnings what a fine company. They came to the UK a while back, took over a company called Homebase for a few million quid, sacked the management and revamped and restocked the shops, and a jolly good job they made.

    Come November in went customers and asked where do you keep the oil filled radiators and draft excluders etc. Don’t sell them mate but we have BBQ's and fans. Oops. Sold the company back to Homebase for about ten quid and buggered off back to Oz. Must say the interior of Homebase is much improved. :scratchchin:
     
  15. Echidna

    Echidna Full Member

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    Hello Walkingthedog & Others,

    a bit of background, Bunnings originated in Western Australia, ( https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bunnings_Warehouse ),and in the case of Victoria, took over McEwans ( James McEwan and Co ), ( https://archivescollection.anu.edu.au/index.php/mcewans-limited , 1850 - 1982 ), who had previously been taken over by Repco, the latter whom made such a mess of running that they very nearly went broke in the process, and then sold McEwans off to Bunnings. Corporate memory was clearly lost when it came to the UK market !

    My late father worked at McEwans for many years, and he used to tell me horror stories of the Repco mismanagement, they effectively managed to destroy a good business, and their own business as well, no mean achievement !

    Regards, Echidna
     
  16. Walkingthedog

    Walkingthedog Full Member

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    Thanks Echidna. Visited Bunnings in Perth several times when staying with my mate in Kenwick.
    Their shops in the UK were generally very good just didn’t seem to have a grasp of our different climate.
     

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