Hornblock components

Discussion in 'Kit Castings' started by Toto, May 13, 2020.

  1. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    I'm looking at potentially fitting hornblocks to some loco's.

    As well as the guides, I'm assuming you require springs and bushes.

    Can anyone post up some photos of the individual parts.

    I know slaters do them but need yo get my head around what yo order. I see there are brass or insulated. What are the opinions on the two ?

    Cheers

    Toto
     
  2. Kimbo

    Kimbo Staff Member Moderator

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    I ordered the insulated ones from slaters for the Q1 build. But when Rob mentioned which ones they were as the photo I posted on the forum was not clear, it made me wonder if I’d purchased the right ones. I did glue in the plastic ones first but the more I looked at them the more I realised I wanted them to be soldered in as I was not sure how well the glue (JB Weld) would fare in use. So I suppose in a round about way I would say go with the brass ones and solder them in.

    I’m sure Rob will have his own take on this choice.
     
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  3. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    I believe the plastic hornblocks are used mainly where the chassis is "live" pick up on one side, I've put the brass ones in on my Britannia and on both BR standard tender middle wheelsets. Best to solder them into position once aligned on the jig I found just in case one of the cut outs for the hornblock is a little out of phase.
     
  4. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Yes,

    I did see reference made to insulated versions and wondered what the idea was. My question came about as when I looked at slaters site, I noted they sold separate springs, guides and in think it was bearings.

    I ordered from roxey as they done packets which appeared to have all the components included and they were for 3/16 axles.

    I do have packets of brass " guides " but realise I would need to buy the other required components also.

    Thstsxwhy I was asking for pictures so I could see the various elements. :avatar:

    I think I understand it now though.

    Cheers

    Toto
     
  5. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    This is the Slater's hornblock fitted to the centre wheelset of a BR 1A tender, the casting is soldered into a cut out you have to make in the frame then the slidinng bearing and a tiny spring is fitted onto a nib to hold it in place and the under keep soldered on afterwards using some bent wire holding everything together. There are two notches either side of the bearing port to align the hornblock into its correct position. First job before assembling the frames is to make the cross hairs horizontally and vertically which give the centre point of the axle, once the cut out is made (drillling the corners out with a 0.7mm drill) the nibs on the casting align with the horizontal cross hair, don't worry it the frame rocks like a see saw when the outer wheels are added, the hornblock will sit down once the frame is under load.

    Take your time and think every stage through firstly before cutting the frames.


    [​IMG]
     
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  6. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    ohhhhhh man ..... fun times ahead.

    toto
     
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  7. jakesdad13

    jakesdad13 Staff Member Moderator

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    I've used different makes and both plastic and brass. I have also made my own, very basic but they did work ok, the fold up type reward careful assembly, the cast lost wax brass type are a little harder to do as they need some file work to get them to move smoothly. Overall though, if you can make them work they will make your locos run much better. I would do a bit more kit building before jumping in with suspension. Also don't forget you have to make the coupling rods flex as well. Most kits come with the option of rigid or flexible rods, just some are easier to assemble than others.

    Cheers, Pete.
     
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  8. Rob Pulham

    Rob Pulham Staff Member Administrator Feature Contributor

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    The plastic ones are really only of value if you are going for split axle pickup. Then you have a choice between plastic hornguides and plastic hornblocks. Slaters do both.

    Next build for me I will cover the use of them.
     
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  9. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Thanks for that gents. never knew about the coupling rod issue ..... well warned .... I may stay clear for now.

    toto
     
  10. Kimbo

    Kimbo Staff Member Moderator

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    Toto, if you look at my Q1 build I mention changing the rods over to a finer set that where not fixed, these so far have worked a treat as they allow each wheel sets some movement.
     
  11. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    I'll have another look Kimbo. Sometimes it takes a few scans before I take everything in.

    One thing I've noticed over the last few weeks doing these relatively simple builds is I am a bit more willing to try now. Just a bit more confident and not quite as reluctant to accept some more challenges ..... a little at a time of course and maintaining an element of realism as to how far my skill sets are evolving.

    I think we call it progression. :avatar:

    Cheers

    Toto
     
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