/ Register

Just bought an MTK Class 73 kit.

Discussion in 'Kits, Kit bashes & Scratch builds' started by Keith M, Jan 28, 2017.

  1. Jan 28, 2017 #1
    Keith M

    Keith M Staff Member Moderator

    Messages:
    4,461
    Likes Received:
    2,911
    Joined:
    Dec 16, 2015
    For various reasons, I've not had time to do any railway modelling this side of Xmas until a couple of days ago, and I began to think I was missing out on all the "fun" of building white metal models, so looking around for an easy intro to this sort of build, I happened to see a "Rails Vault" offer on Ebay of one of these kits. I made a moderate offer, and was accepted, in at the deep end now. At least I already have a Lima/Hornby version of this class (previously detailed on the forum) to copy from, and some of the necessary paint, but I'll need to source motor bogie, rear bogie and other bits. I can see this being a "Slow and steady" sort of build, but I'd welcome any advice from members who've already built this kind of white metal model, as this is right out of my comfort zone presently. :eek:

    Keith.
     
  2. Jan 28, 2017 #2
    SRman

    SRman Full Member

    Messages:
    895
    Likes Received:
    429
    Joined:
    Dec 28, 2015
    My limited experience of MTK kits includes only one locomotive, plus a few EMUs. They are not usually good kits but with a bit of care and effort, can be made up to give very presentable results.

    The locomotive, 10203, had an etched brass body shell with white metal components, including cast cab ends and cab roof infills. The parts didn't fit particularly well, and needed quite a bit of reinforcing and filling at the joints, particularly those cab roofs.

    I used the best chassis I had available at that time, namely a Mainline class 45 chassis, suitably shortened and reinforced to compensate for narrowing it to fit inside the solebars. I don't consider it good enough to convert to DCC, however.

    At one time, MTK marketed motor bogie kits too; whatever you do, don't try one of those!

    Suitable motor bogies for the class 73 could come from Hornby: their own 5-pole motored class 73 type or even their 4 VEP ones. Trailer bogies are available as spares but the motor bogies seem to have dropped off the radar at present.

    Alternatively, you could look at motor/chassis arrangements from the likes of Hollywood Foundry.

    Just a few ideas there, anyway.

    [​IMG]
     
  3. Jan 28, 2017 #3
    Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

    Messages:
    15,419
    Likes Received:
    3,842
    Joined:
    Dec 5, 2017
    Looks like a job well done to me, and a bit different as well. :thumbs:
    cheers
    toto
     
  4. Jan 29, 2017 #4
    Keith M

    Keith M Staff Member Moderator

    Messages:
    4,461
    Likes Received:
    2,911
    Joined:
    Dec 16, 2015
    Thanks for the advice Jeff, did you use Araldite (or similar) or go the 'low melt solder' route with the white metal bits? My reasoning in choosing the Class 73 as a first foray into white metal kitbuilding was basically, "it's a rectangular box, how hard can it be???" There's no way I would attempt a steam loco build as an initial project, the thought of quartering and valve gear assembly without previous experience scares the crap out of me! Motor bogie-wise, I was thinking along the lines of Black Beetle or one of the Japanese ones, but are the Hornby 5 pole bogies any better than the Lima ones they were developed from? I've converted several of the Lima ones using the Finnish guy's (whose name escapes me at present) motor conversions with good results, but a purpose built one seems a better (if somewhat more expensive) way to go. Advice from all and sundry is welcomed!
    Keith.
     
  5. Jan 29, 2017 #5
    SRman

    SRman Full Member

    Messages:
    895
    Likes Received:
    429
    Joined:
    Dec 28, 2015
    The current Hornby motor bogies are an entirely different design from the Lima 'pancake' (or even the old Hornby 'pancake') type. The wheels are also much better, although some of these motor bogies still use traction tyres.

    In my experience, they run very sweetly, although there is no flywheel, so if the current is cut suddenly, they will stop dead.

    For white metal bodies, (I do a fair few bus kits), I use 5 minute Araldite. Some of my bus and rolling stock kits have been assembled for 30 or more years with no problems. If you are assembling a mechanism, then I would say use solder for robustness and solidity, but for the body structures, I find that not only does the Araldite last well and grip strongly, it also builds in a small amount of resilience, allowing for minor bumps or drops.
    Superglues work well for small brass bits bonding to brass - those four exhaust ports on 10203 were etched brass and I found the cyanoacrylate grabbed almost instantly, so I had to position them very, very carefully when gluing. I would avoid superglues on white etal bits as they tend to be porous and such joints tend to be relatively weak and brittle.

    Joining brass and white metal components can be tricky with solder as brass needs high temperatures while white metal needs low temperatures, but that should give a strong joint. Araldite, on the other hand, can fill poorly fitting joints such as I found on the MTK kits I have dealt with.

    There are other solutions that other modellers will swear by too, but I hope this helps.
     
  6. Jan 29, 2017 #6
    jakesdad13

    jakesdad13 Staff Member Moderator

    Messages:
    4,536
    Likes Received:
    2,072
    Joined:
    Dec 14, 2015
    Building a white metal kit is a pretty scary prospect when you have no experience soldering them so using araldite is a good alternative, however the components need to be held firmly in position while the glue sets, jigs and blutack will help, lego blocks make excellent jigs, perfectly square corners, and the blutack will keep things in place, 5 minute epoxy is brilliant, sets fast and gains even more strength in time, also if you are not happy with some thing, joints can be dissolved in acetone, available on line and can be delivered to your door. Regarding joining brass to white metal, a soldered joint can be made by tinning the brass first then using low melt to make the joint.
    Keep us in the loop mate, I enjoy a good kit build.

    Cheers, Pete.
     
  7. Jan 31, 2017 #7
    Keith M

    Keith M Staff Member Moderator

    Messages:
    4,461
    Likes Received:
    2,911
    Joined:
    Dec 16, 2015
    I've managed to get hold of a Hornby Class 73 DCC ready complete chassis, which has solved the problem of obtaining trailing bogie, motor bogie and chassis hopefully. I've not received it yet, but I gather the chassis on the 'DCC ready' versions is metal as opposed to the plastic Lima one, motor is a 5 pole 'Can' type' so I imagine it'll be similar to the one on the Class 90 motor bogie I recently used on my Triang EMU update, so that should be ok for this build. Still awaiting the kit arrival too, and as we are on regular Thursday childcare for our twin grandsons (both Lego addicts!), I shall be attempting to scrounge a few Lego blocks to use on the build to keep things square (thanks for the tip, Pete!). With any luck, I might manage to make a start before the week is out!
    Keith.
     
  8. Jan 31, 2017 #8
    Keith M

    Keith M Staff Member Moderator

    Messages:
    4,461
    Likes Received:
    2,911
    Joined:
    Dec 16, 2015
    Courier just brought the chassis, unpacked it and found it has a Lima body fitted, so popped the body off and lo and behold, it also has a DCC decoder fitted! Did a factory reset, checked cv8 and it's only a Hornby one (not one of my favourites!) but it's an unexpected bonus and I'm sure I can find a use for it somewhere. Expecting postie to deliver the MTK kit from Rails tomorrow. The chassis is indeed a metal DCC ready one, but must be an early type as it's got traction tyres ( later ones apparently don't) so I'll see how it performs with a bit more body weight,- I can always reverse one pair of wheels on each bogie to give better traction and better electrical track contact.
    Onwards and upwards!
    Keith.
     
  9. Jan 31, 2017 #9
    paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

    Messages:
    9,888
    Likes Received:
    5,957
    Joined:
    Dec 5, 2015
    Over 20 years ago when I was a member of the local model railway club, MTK kits were affectionately call Modern schrapnel kits :avatar:

    Good luck Keith looking forward to seeing this build.

    Paul
     

Share This Page