Discussion in 'Kits, Kit bashes & Scratch builds' started by Keith M, Oct 12, 2019.
up there with your interesting threads Keith thanks
I'm following this build with interest Keith. If it go's the same as your previous builds it will turn out well!
Would you recommend the Poppies chassis jig? I've been fancying something like that for a while now.
Keith definitely pulled a rabbit out of the hat with his Fell diesel build... that one was certainly a build not for the faint hearted. If there was ever an award for the most adventurous kit build on Platform 1 then that would get it.
Yes Paul, it is indeed a "Poppy" jig. It might not be quite as good as some of the proprietary metal ones but it's perfectly adequate for my very 'Amateur' use, and certainly vastly cheaper. If I were to be building loco's for others, I'd go for a pricier option, but that's not likely to happen.
The "Poppy" jig is fine for 'Amateur' use Pete, "does exactly what it says on the tin"!
Thanks Keith for that advice, I may get a jig as some point if only to speed the builds up a little, the way i put a chassis together is using a flat stone, a mirror and a piece of graph paper... the old fashioned way. I've got four steamers built this way ranging from a simple 0-4-4 to a 4-6-2 Pacific and they are all free rolling and perfectly level. Same goes for the diesel bogies, there are two on the workbench right now to be finalised over the weekend and they are as straight as a die.
Mmmmmmm, not sure about 'adventurous' Paul. It certainly wasn't a simple straightforward kit in the form I built it, but that didn't put me off, just slowed me down somewhat whilst I devised a "work-around' to cover the lack of instructions for the 'late' version. I usually rise to a challenge, and I get a lot of satisfaction from completion of what can be termed a more awkward/difficult kit, after all, if you don't attempt these more challenging kits, you'll never know the limit of your capabilities, sort of "nothing ventured, nothing gained"!
I've not done with the Fell yet, as I'm determined to make it capable of taking reasonable curves, otherwise there'd be no point in my building it, as I build them to use, not sit in a cabinet, but it's a model I'm glad to leave for a while to maybe get my sanity back somewhat.........the "Lord Nelson", despite it being an old style kit has at least gone some way to restore my interest, mojo and sanity!
Back on thread, here's the (now painted) chassis with wheels, motor and gearbox(!) in place. The worm drive is brass but unfortunately the drive gear is plastic (Aaaaghhh!). Not sure if that will be up to the job long term, so replacement with a 'proper' motor/gearbox might not be too far away!
Wheels are plastic centres with what seems to be aluminium tyres. They look clean enough (straight out of sealed shrink wrapping) but not sure if they may tarnish in the long term. The wires are just a 'lash-up' for testing purposes. At least as the axles are 'D' shaped, 3 wheels 90 degrees out of phase with the other 3, then there's no hassle involved in quartering, and at this point, it ran nicely without problems.......wether the same will be true when the valve gear is fitted remains to be seen!
I've been spending some time on the loco body recently, and have just primer coated the pretty much completed body. As usual, the first primer coat shows up a few bits that need a touch more fettling, but it's getting there. I used brass handrail knobs rather than the supplied plastic ones, again something I'm personally not keen on, and I may as well do it right.
Made a start on the dreaded valve gear today! Instructional detail isn't that great (but then again, nor is my valve gear knowledge!) but I'll keep plugging on anyway. The various rods are supposed to be riveted together, but if you've ever seen the size of these rivets you'll know that fixing them is fraught with difficulty, not to mention being able to actually see them! That being so, I decided my usual method would make things much easier so some time ago, I obtained a small plastic box of 1000 brass Lacemaking pins, 0.5mm in diameter and 10mm long. First step is to decide which way around the various parts are to be fixed, then the rivet hole in the rearmost part is 'countersunk' with a small drill, probably around 2mm diameter will be about right. the brass pin is then inserted through the various parts, with a thin piece of paper which the pin passes through between each part, thus forming a sandwich. Next step is to solder the pin to the rearmost rod using as little solder as possible to fill up the 'countersunk' area. Finally, snip off the excess pin length, file flat to the back of the rod, tear off the interleaving bits of paper and if you've done it properly, all rods should move easily......at least, that's the theory of it! I've now got the first 4 joints done, and all is good so far.