Luib Bridge

Toto · Aug 28, 2016

Done well today. A lot of the awkward bits out the way. The remaking track should be " reasonably " straight forward. A couple of bits of copper clad joints to go but the worst is over.

One thing I am not impressed with is the strength ..... Or lack of with the polarity wire on the O a Gauge points. ....... Shame on you Peco. They are at best ..... Crap ....... As they break off if you as much as look at them and the gauge of wire is questionable.

Anyway ....... On a more positive note as well as the points and copper clad that were fitted today, the baseboard dowels and bolt throughout were also done. It's beginning to take shape. We even managed to test it with a fowler but the 25 didn't like it as the DC test transformer we used was not powerful enough for it. It did run just but we didn't push it.

If it's dry through the week, I can maybe get the baseboards out and get the remaining bits of copper clad completed.

Paul has the pictures as he had his Canon at hand so you'll maybe see some later.

PS ....... The bacon and sausage rolls were great. Thanks again for the hospitalityhttp://www.click

Toto

paul_l · Aug 28, 2016

Another good days work, started with the usual strong coffee - we both needed stimulants for wotk on a Sunday.

Then moved out to the shed.

1st up, fit the baseboard alignment dowels, I've been looking after these for Tomn for a while now

Pass over the baseboard joints with the orbital sander and were ready to go.

The anyrail templates were printed out, laid out on the baseboard, then abandoned as things appeared a little cramped. The Y point and RH were swapped over and track lengths adjusted to allow the new kid on the block to be able to run round.

Old school now, placing track on the boards and suck it and see.

Citical was the alignment from the turntable to the two points / exit roads.

Points locations were marked up and holes drilled for the cobalt and track feeds.

Now the truntable......

The front track became the reference road that all others woucome from.

Two sleepers were removed from the piece of track and replaced with copper clad, packed up with 1/16th balsa.

Another piece of copper clad was cut to match the turntable

Again two sleepers were removed, and the track trimmed to length.

Before soldering the copper clad the brass tube to form the locks were soldered into position

Tom cut the tubes, and an old tent pin was presses into action to act as a bolt.
The track was then soldered into position .

Next up eas position 2 another piece of copper clad cut to shape and brass tube used for alignment.

The dremel was used to cut the insulation gaps.

The turntable was spun through 180 degrees, and the other end got the same treatment.

A quick clean up, and a wee bit o testing was required (should have seen the look on his face when it was suggested it wouldn't be needed).

drum roll please .....

and then the new boy

It did move, only just at full power, checked the wee DC controllers power output - 0.3A max, my Heljan OO 26 takes that, never mind an O gauge loco.

Still put a cheshire cat like grin on his face tho.

Time to clear up, Tom to head down south for his tea.

Great day, and made a change to achieve something.

Paul

Toto · Aug 28, 2016

Great job done. the wee Fowler took off no problems. There is quite a bit more to getting the first pieces of track ...... in this case points ....... aligned properly. The results are worth it though as the loco's took the points with out any issue.
The sequel should be coming to your screens shortly. Looking forward to getting the rest of the track down and the wiring sorted out.
cheers
Toto

Gary · Aug 28, 2016

Looks like it was a very productive day.., eating bacon and sausage rolls, and some track laying ! Good pics as well. It looks like one model had more photos than the trains...

Looking forward to the video of the controller billowing more smoke than the Sulzer, I mean trains moving.

Cheers, Gary.

paul_l · Aug 28, 2016

And it moved - theres proof

and the link

https://youtu.be/uUbBaNBgY6M

Paul

Toto · Aug 28, 2016

I'll keep the whole thing DC until I have the decoders to change all the loco's over at the same time.

Need to check the destructions to see what's required. I suspect the two Fowlers and the Hudswell Clarke may get away with OO decoders but the Heljan Class 25 may require something more substantial. It will eventually get sound but for now, just plain old DCC.

Cheers

Toto

Keith M · Aug 29, 2016

Hi Toto.
Just for information, Zimo do the MX632R decoder, 8 pin plug 1.6 amps continuous (Youchoos list at £40 but temp out of stock), or if you need a lot more ooomph, the MX695KN with 6 amps continuous, this wires in with terminal blocks (14 functions!) at £85. When I get around to it, I have an ammeter to wire in series with my rolling road, but as an ex-sparky, you'll surely have a multimeter with an amps range, so you could try similar before you part with cash for a decoder.
Keith.

SMR CHRIS · Aug 29, 2016

Looks like a successful days toil their Toto and Paul
Funny the first video I did on Moonan Flats was a loco running off the sector plate on to the main board

Snap link
https://youtu.be/bmIVho3B6lQ

http://www.click

Toto · Aug 29, 2016

Hi Keith,

Cheers. handy to know. I will have a look at the loco spec to see what Heljan say ( if anything ). I'll also have a look at your recommendations at the same time.

Cheers

Toto

Keith M · Aug 30, 2016

Like a new car, as the loco is 'run in', the current it draws will (should!) reduce slightly as gears, bearings and motor bed in, so once that's done, you'll have a better idea of the normal maximum stall current, and as long as the decoder you choose is within that current carrying capacity, it'll be fine. I know most of the Heljan 00 gauge stuff is either 8 or 21 pin, but 0 gauge is something I'm not familiar with, so no idea there. If you can run it in first on DC, it's always better, 'cos then current draw shouldn't change and you know where you are current-wise when choosing a decoder. Charlie Petty would likely know which decoder would suit, since he'll likely have started fitting them for his customers.
Keith.

Toto · Aug 30, 2016

Hi Keith,
I have just clicked on to who Charliepetty is. We met at the StAndrews exhibition where I bought my class 26 sound chip. The question has been asked.
cheers
Toto

Toto · Aug 31, 2016

Well,

Half way through the week already. Getting closer to modelling time.

The plan is to do a couple of domestics early on Saturday then turn my attention to progressing my track work. I have some copper clad to overcome but had good tuition at the weekend there so feel more confident to handle it.

Once that's out the way, I have two sets of turnouts to modify and then it's plain sailing with the rest of the track.

Cobalts to fit but they are easy enough and then sort out a track Bus.

Easy .......

Toto · Aug 31, 2016

Hi Keith,

I have an inline doofery bobber thingy made by somebody that connects in line and displays the current draw being taken.

It is purposely made for connecting into model railways for that very thing. I'll need to look it out .......... I put it somewhere safe.

Cheers

Toto

ianvolvo46 · Sep 1, 2016

It'll be in the wand drawer Toto ...

Toto · Sep 1, 2016

Ahhhhhh ...... of course ...... never thought of there.
Thanks Ian

paul_l · Sep 1, 2016

With a simple multimeter, you could follow the method I used for the 4F, you do need a power supply capable of delivering enough current for the stall.

https://youtu.be/3QVHcO4dW44

just press down on the loco untill it stalls and record the current value.

Paul

Toto · Sep 3, 2016

Well progress today on Luib Bridge. The weather was ok so I set up on the BBQ bench and continued with the track laying etc.

here is where I left off the last time up at Pauls. the turntable was laid and both roads off it were secured in place.

made a start with the first track which is the one that will run parallel with the loading platform ( when it goes in ).
And here we are,

down in place with track feeds soldered in place as well. Doing the electrics as I go.

The fish plates are soldered into position. Not relying on the mechanical grip as its not good at all. It will also assist the flow of current.

Not so pretty but will do. Once painted over etc it'll not look as bad.

More vtrack and another set of points in place. Guess who forgot to take the links out of that set. I'll need to lift them again to get them out. never mind.

Another closer shot of the same.

Now we are getting some where, more track goes down, Holes drilled for Cobalts and dropper wires soldered and drill through to the underside as I go. Same with the polarity wires for the frogs.

Another closer shot. Getting there ....... but .......

Just started the laying of the final piece ........ and the heavens opened big time.

So this is where I am. The last piece which is a kick back siding which goes back towards the turntable off the bottom track.
Thats all for now toto