Parkside Dundas Fruit Wagon in O Gauge

Discussion in 'Kits, Kit bashes & Scratch builds' started by Toto, May 28, 2016.

  1. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Hi,
    Here is my first attempt at a Parkside Dundas wagon build. Believe it or not, its taken me all day to get this far and there are still one or two little things to be done to it ........ and then it needs painting and transfers. :hammer:
    here I am getting set up ready to go,
    [​IMG]

    I did not use the poly cement that you see in the picture. I opted for another version that suits this kind of plastic better. You'll see it in the other photo's as I've forgotten the name already :oops:.
    I used the brush that was built into the glue bottle cap and the paint brush that you can see in the photo above. other tools I used were, tweezers, Pauls spru cutters ( invaluable and leaves a very neat cut ) A small hand drill with a 1/32 drill bit, some clothes pegs as clamps when needed and a scalpel.
    I started off as per the instructions assembling the first end and the two sides. They were easy enough placed and glued and came together not bad.
    [​IMG]
    Another from a different angle
    [​IMG]

    and end on.
    [​IMG]

    Then the second end went on which gives a pretty solid structure already. A dab of glue between the joints and it whizzes along the full join using capillary action ...... neat or what.:giggle:
    As you can see I then started gluing the louvres in place. The inner / middle louvres need a tiny bit filed out to accept the door hinges.
    [​IMG]

    Both sides done now.
    [​IMG]

    Now the side sole bars with the built in W irons. Some of us weren't so lucky Ehhhh Paul. his W irons etc came as a seperate assembly........ shame :giggle:
    [​IMG]

    Never fear though for as quick as i had displayed that smug feeling .......... :faint:disaster struck ..... I glued mine in the wrong place. Luckily the glue was still pliable and the part removed and reset in the correct place. Wont do that again ....... until the next time.
    Job done. In place now and ready to progress.
    [​IMG]

    So it was constructing the axle boxes and fitting the wheels etc. Also started to fit the brakes ....... pain in the doo da's. This stage easily took up most of the time having to drill very fine holes and even managing to snap a couple of the finer bits which luckily enough were recoverable ( no photo's of that bit guys, spare my blushes a bit ).:facepalm:
    [​IMG]

    Brakes ..... check, axel boxes check ...... lever doofery things ......... where are my doofers.:eek:
    [​IMG]

    Ahhhhhhh ........ doofers in place ...... check.
    [​IMG]

    Buffers ..... check, couplings ......... check ...... :scratchchin: need ose's ........ where's the ose's
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Not a great photo but ose's are on.
    and ..... a loose fitting roof check,
    How does she look with some others,
    [​IMG]

    along side Pauls Fish van and his Terrier.
    and another, Grrrrrr ruff ruff.
    [​IMG]

    Still some brass handles to be made up and installed for the doors, The roof to be permanently glued down once the wagon has been assessed for weight and of course the all important paint and transfer job.
    Well, my first attempt but I think its acceptable. I should have done more record shots of the brakes and some of the fiddlier bits of the build as they were by far the most difficult bit. I think that a how to that shows these elements would be of great use to the beginner as it would clearly demonstrate what I think is the hardest part that you would have to deal with. I'll make a point of showing it on the next build.
    By the way ....... If I can do it ........ anyone can ...... give it a go.
    Thanks for tuning in and I hope its been of some use.
    cheers
    Toto
     
  2. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Managed to find two showing ose's :giggle:

    [​IMG]

    and another.
    [​IMG]

    Not the best of shots but it gives a flavour.
    cheers
    toto
     
  3. Sparky

    Sparky Full Member

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    You are making a nice job of that Tom.

    Could i just suggest if you are using the type of solvent in your picture ,to drill out a deep block of wood a suitable size to sit the bottle in. otherwise Should it accidentally tip over it would make a mess of any plastic it touches .ruin the kit for sure .

    Doug (Chubber) has also come up with the idea of drilling out a cork to take a brush ,when wedged in the bottle top that prevents too much evaporation of the solvent.
    You may already know all this ,but just to make sure.:thumbs:
    I still have to master getting photos on here ,otherwise i could show my set up.

    Looking forward to more updates on the wagon and the others .
     
  4. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Thanks Sparky,
    I'll take note of what you say. I have a few more to do so would probably benefit from perfecting my set up.
    thank you kind Sir for the post and the comments.
    We'll need to get you comfortable with inserting photo's etc. I'll see if I can come up with a suitable script to explain how to do it as its not that difficult. Its just my explanations that aren't much cope.:giggle:
    I'll see what I can come up with.
    cheers
    toto
     
  5. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    The solvent used was Humbrol Liquid Poly for the majority of the build, with other type being used for the ABS components, and super glue to stick the plastic to metal (axel boxes to bearings and brake rodding to levers etc.

    Both kits (the fish van will appear in a different thread) were fairly straight forward, the axel boxes were a little fiddly, but the brakes were challenging - and I reckon I've got mine wrong, but I'll live with it for this kit and try harder next time - honest.

    But an enjoyable day, with almost a wagon to show for it.

    Paul
     
  6. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Hi Sparky

    To post pictures, click on the data:image/png;base64,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 button

    In the window that opens (your gallery), click on Browse, navigate to where you have the photo you wish upload, select the file, then click on the upload button. The picture will eventually appear in the gallery, click on the photo and it will be inserted into the post.

    Hope that helps

    Paul
     
  7. Steve Fay

    Steve Fay Full Member

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    That's a very nice build, one little tip with parkside vans is to drill a hole in the under frame to allow the glue vapour to escape, you won't have the issue on this one as it has vents, some times the corner joints can open up as it's the glue pulling the sides in.
     
  8. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Hi steve,
    never heard of that before. thanks for the tip. I'll keep that in mind. You learn something new every day. :thumbs:
    I still have step irons and door handles to sort out before yielding an air brush at it.
    maybe tomorrow.
    cheers
    toto
     
  9. SMR CHRIS

    SMR CHRIS Staff Member Moderator

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    Steve Fay wrote:
    Great tip Steve :thumbup:

    Toto great start in o scale you probably started with a more chalanging van with all the vent parts than a standard van build
    You have done a fine job :tophat:

    "By the way ....... If I can do it ........ anyone can ...... give it a go.". I think your selling your self short Toto,

    it's not that much of a mystery is it building rolling stock "actually enjoyable" in most cases. Brakes are always something that can be a change as you never easily get to see under a real wagon so it's like "flying blind" as you build trying to workout which way the mechanical force work.:hammer:

    Great build post :thumbs: one down :giggle: a railways worth to build. :thumbs::thumbs::thumbs:
     
  10. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Hi Chris,

    The vents are quite straight forward. The braking mechanisms were the real challenge but got there in the end.

    I'll need to sort the step irons as they broke when trying to fit them. They need solder to give them more strength. Once they are done and some brass handles made, drilled and fitted, then it's out with the air brush. :thumbs:

    Cheers for now,

    Toto
     
  11. Gary

    Gary Wants more time for modelling.... Staff Member Administrator

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    Both builds look pretty good with me. :thumbup:
    Now, if you are unhappy with what you have just done, I know where you can send them... No, not to Chris or Kimbo !

    Tom, I noticed in your 2nd pic, that you glued one end and two sides together first. It is easier to glue to right angles together, meaning one side/one end and one side/one end, basically two L sections to form a box.

    The glue in the bottle, is that MEK (methyl ethyl ketone) or butonone ?

    Best practice to using glues/adhesives as such, is to apply two small dabs/dots on the model, line the parts up, push together and then wait 1-2 mins, allowing this to take. Then, using the paint brush, paint in the join.

    Cheers, Gary.

    ps. I don't see you 90* right angle thingy-me-jigs ?? :scratchchin:
     
  12. 60019Bittern

    60019Bittern Full Member

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    Very nice build Toto, but I don't want to upset you but you have the brake operating lever upside down. The handle bit should be parallel to the solebar. Should be simple enough to rectify.
     
  13. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Hi Gary

    I followed the usual end + side, then join the two halves together, but in Toto's case the instructions actually stated glueing an end to the floor, then add the two sides, followed by the final end.

    We did need to upgrade Toto's handling devices, apparently he reconned the two hands he had wern't enough. The rightange clamps couldn't grip the pieces properly due the shape and size of the mouldings.

    So he used my cheapo method

    [​IMG]

    A piece of 1 inch (ok 25mm) ally angle and pegs

    [​IMG]

    A wee touch of solvent, to tag the joint, then when the ally was removed, a touch of solvent to complete any bits capaillary action had failed to fix.

    Paul
     
  14. ianvolvo46

    ianvolvo46 Staff Member Moderator

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    Very enjoyable build Toto I see us mere mortal 'oh oh' builders will have to come up with similar builds for comparison.

    Ian vt:thumbup::scratchchin:
     
  15. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Hi chaps,

    Thanks for all the comments. It was an enjoyable kit to do. Looking forward to the next one.

    Toto
     
  16. Gary

    Gary Wants more time for modelling.... Staff Member Administrator

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    Great method of making sure all is square by using aluminium angle and pegs. :thumbs: Pegs are an invaluable tool and I can vouch that SWMBO cannot ever find her pegs...!

    Carry on Toto as I'm looking forward to the next installment.

    Cheers, Gary.
     
  17. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Hi Gary,

    I'm on son in law duties shortly. ........ Fixing a clothing hanger to a wall for mumsie in law. I'll be looking at the door handles and step irons on my return later this afternoon.

    I'll need to have a swatch to see if I have any paint that resembles bauxite or brown. Matt black for the under frame etc.

    The step irons broke yesterday as I think I had bent once too often. :avatar: little brass jobs. I read a good soldering tip on here as well just a day or two before as well. :facepalm: never mind, they are recoverable.

    Cheers

    Toto
     
  18. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Here we are ....... rough as a rag mans trumpet. steps and hawnels.
    [​IMG]

    apologies for the blurry images.
    [​IMG]

    thats all for now.
    toto
     
  19. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Sent away for some acrylic paints from Lifecolour last night. Hoping that they will be here for the weekend.

    Time to look out the Airbrush and master the art of thinning to a milky consistency. ........ What a guide. Is that full fat , semi skimmed or zero fat. :avatar:

    There is Bauxite, Matt black and two grey variants on their way. Apparently, I'll be attacking them with washes and powders after that. This could be fun. :facepalm:

    Please feel free to look at the unpainted models again for what might be the last time that you see the resemble what they are meant to.

    Wish me luck.

    Toto
     
  20. Gary

    Gary Wants more time for modelling.... Staff Member Administrator

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    Toto, mix your paint and thinners 50/50. This should give you good flow through the airbrush. You will need to apply more than one coat.

    Remember some paints are thicker than others. Always do a spray check on some old card or paper before applying to the model. Check for correct air/paint ratio (dual action gun), dillution or colour saturation (too much thinners), whether it splatters (not enough thinners or air flow) and drying time.

    I have read that mixing paint with IPA (isopropyl alcohol) can be a bonus, rather than using thinners or water. Golden rule is the paint itself. Some paints are pre-thinned ie, Vallejo. Tamiya paints can be thinned with IPA, no problem. If you thin your paints with IPA and find that they are drying with a ruff finish, add a little water. This will allow the paint to spread out a little more and reduce drying time, resulting in a better finish.

    Cheers, Gary.
     

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