I intend installing a post and wire type fence along the top of my coal drop to stop the little people falling off the bridge. I'd like to do this in metal in order to practice my soldering skills. I'd intend drilling holes in the concrete parapet and sinking metal stanchions into the holes. Then run wire between them / through them and soldering at the joints. Any idea what I could use for the stanchions ? Preferably something I could drill holes in to take the wire. Thanks for any ideas. Cheers Toto
You could use rail, or bend copper wire over and solder cross wires between the posts, and use solder to fill the gap between the wires. You can then leave the bend on or cut it off Paul
I would go with OO gauge rail as well, but I would cross drill through the rail and feed brass wire through all the posts, followed by a dab of solder. If you were to use Plaststruct or Evergreen Styrene shape, the I beam sections would be ideal (cross drilled) and the use of 1mm or 1.2mm diameter rod for the railings. The beauty of styrene is that it is flexible, whereas if you brush your hand or arm over the the metal rails..., ouch ! Also if any damage is done, it is easier to superglue the damaged parts together... Cheers, Gary.
Good points made by Gary there Toto, The plastic solution would be easier all around and be easier to adapt if you need to make adjustments. Once painted, you`ll never know the difference. http://www.clickGormo
I'll have a look through my stock of plastic section and see what I have that may be suitable. I think most of my sections are a bit on the large side. I'll have a swatch. Cheers Toto
Just remember to keep it scaled appropriately. For example, a handrail for such a large structure would be approximately 2" in diameter, so when you do the maths... 7mm divide by 12, equals 0.583'mm, times this by 2 to get 1.16'mm. Therefore the 1.2mm diameter wire or styrene rod would be acceptable for a handrail... Cheers, Gary.
I used to use small fish hooks as the stantion, but it is only good for a top rail. Cut the bend off and glue into hole. Sometimes it is easier to heat the eye of the hook to a red heat and then you can open or close the eye to suit the rail. You have to heat it becuase most fishhooks have been tempered to make then harder. Andrew Sandbar & Mudcrab Railway
or cheat and buy some 1:48 ones. Might be some here http://www.scalelink.co.uk/acatalog/Marine___Marin.html or theses maybe http://www.modellingtimbers.co.uk/40.html Remember searching for stanchions for something else, but I can't for the life of me remember what it was Ed
Don't forget the model boat building world, there are some great brass hand rails that you can use pre drilled ready for wire or plastic ridding.
These are the ones I used on my coal drop on LSD :- http://www.modelboatbits.com/BRASS-HANDRAIL-STANCHIONS
Model boat supplies! Genius, I think we tend to get a bit blinkered when sourcing stuff, i.e. 'If it's for a railway, it must come from a railway bits supplier...' Doug
Hi Toto, I think from memory they where 35-38mm, I've just measured them and they are 32 mm above ground level, which look right when a figure is positioned behind them...I'll look for the link for them
Thank you kind Sir. I see they sell them in increments of about 5 mm or so. 30 mm would be about right. Cheers Toto
If you follow this link below, there are several pages full of useful items, should be something that you can use:- www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk Search for "stanchions" in their search bar.... Kim