A few wagons that I built a week ago have been used to try out some “pre shading “ before painting to create a different weathered appearance. Following a few examples of military modellers on YouTube the models had the detailing / frame work, sprayed black, then the centres of each panel sprayed white followed by a light spray of the finished body colour at distance, to blend it all together....still a learning curve for me. Awaiting some transfers from Fox, once applied I’ll finish them off with some weathering powders... What do you think ?....
Nice work Kimbo paler shades of the body colour or a translucent white whether applied as a wash or an airbrushed dusting works well to enhance and mimic the effect of UV sunlight bleaching. Years ago now when I worked for BR it was noticeable that steel minerals and coal / coke hoppers would very often accrue dark bands of residues around the ribbing and angle straps, often this was a result of the loaded wagons going through the slacking washer at collieries to dampen down loads particularly if the coal was very dusty or liable to fly off in transit. A wetted coal dust load if sprayed with high pressure water would give the top layer of power station coal a hard shell which would set like cement.
Very nice Kimbo, I have had a go at pre-shading but sadly I have then got carried away and the effect has largely been lost on the end result.
gets my vote works particularly well on the bauxite vans. I'll look forward seeing them transfered up and a bit of an explanation on the use of the weathering powders would go down a treat. I have a mixture of Slaters, etched brass and some RTR that I will be tackling after Elgin is over so good timing. I'd be delighted with them. York Paul has done an amazing job of some of his which are in my custody at present after being the stars of the show in Dundee and which are re-appearing at Elgin too. carry on the great work Kimbo
Thanks Gents for your comments Rob, yes your right it takes only a very small amount of the final colour. I’ve found moving the air gun a fair way from the model and using a circular motion gave the best light coating. Cheers Toto, just got to wait awhile now for Fox to send me pack NOFRH7800TP2 which should have plenty of decals to finish off several wagons, then I’ll do a weathering session. Thanks York Paul, very interesting, I’ve a fleet of hoppers coming that will need a good seeing to and the residue you mention, will be one of the paint / weathering effects I’d like to achieve... TimberSurf, yes the weathering powders will bring the effects together, these are a work in progress. It’s nice to try out different techniques. Kim
Hi Kim you have achieved a quite pleasing effect with every little effort It has produced the effect of the built up dust/soot around the body side frame etc Very nice will have to give it a go
I have yet to develop my weathering skills and I have hundreds of wagons that will need the treatment, but mine are all RTR self coloured, not the scenario of starting from scratch with a uncoloured kit! The only real weathering I have done is steel structures and one scratch build. It has to be said, that it took about seven layers of various shades to get the ultimate realistic look of rust I was going for! For any of us novices, it's just a matter of experimenting with techniques we have seen demonstrated/taught and having a go, to build our own skill level. Paul makes a good point, I never even thought about sunlight fading! Even clean wagons would show signs of that.
Those wagons look good to me Kimbo, nice job indeed. Will you be adding an extra weathering, ie rust and dust...?? Cheers, Gary.
Pre-shade - down seams etc, base colour then a wash to bring out the lines (planks, rivets, banding etc), then your ready for weathering. Just my two penneth Timbersurf - on the RTR models you wish to keep without a repaint, try giving a wash with black to bring out the panel lines - I use Humbrol enamel washes, just use capillary action to wick the paint along the plank lines and edges. Any excess can be rewmoved once dry with a cotton bud dampened with enamel thinner. Then use some dust wash on the underframes Then add some powders Can give quick results Sorry Kimbo - back to pre-shading Paul
Paul, I will be an expert by the time I finish my stock, I will have done a thousand! So, the first 300 learning curve ones will be those that go on Ebay! SHHHHHHH.... There are lots of resources to learn from (I too like Kimbo, look to the wargamers as one) but it will be a few years before I get to the task of trying! (I have to move house and build a monster layout first!) {but mentally noted as a future resource cheers Paul} Also sorry Kimbo - back to pre-shading
