R022B engine shed.

Discussion in 'Scalescenes models' started by Andy_Sollis, Dec 1, 2019.

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  1. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Full Member

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    Thanks Malc.
    I’m now on to the roof trusses. Very tedious cutting out. Each one of 4 parts and takes around an hour to complete.
    I have a fair number to do. Around 20! :redface::(
     
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  2. danielb

    danielb Full Member

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    I attended the Wingfield MRG as well for a short while, about 10 years back. I stopped going for exactly the same reason as you. Clubs have to have a singular drive to build something or they just stagnate, which I appreciate is an oxymoron when you think that all members will have different experiences and interests. I tried every club I could find in the area, and none of them appealled to me. Every club I've ever been to has been different flavours of the same thing, unfortunately.

    Don't get me wrong, if you like what they are selling then great, go for it. But I'm a very... absorbed modeller, so it's all or nothing for me. That's why a lot of my projects see long bouts of zero updates on here. I don't like to split focus and if I'm modelling a particular thing or prototype, if it's not accurate it's not good enough. If I am not invested in a project I'll lose interest fast, which is why clubs just aren't for me.

    I think I've derailed poor Andy's thread long enough though!
     
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  3. danielb

    danielb Full Member

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    I get around this using a method I call "if you don't paint the infantry, you can't paint the tank" that I picked up in Wargaming. I used to HATE painting endless hordes of the same infantry models that are needed to form the bulk of any wargaming army. So to encourage myself, for every 5 bog standard infantry I painted, I'd paint a character model, or a tank, etc. Something much more fun and interesting.

    Translated for your loco shed build: For every couple of trusses you complete, reward yourself by building a more interesting part of the kit. It'll keep the momemtum going and you won't lose interest. :)
     
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  4. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Full Member

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    interesting idea...

    Not sure how many drain pipes I need?? :giggle::giggle::giggle:
     
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  5. Keith M

    Keith M Staff Member Moderator

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    I guess that's why I tend to have half a dozen 'projects' progressing slowly. If I get bored, need further information/inspiration, or just want a change of scene then I move over onto something else for a while. I don't usually work to a timetable (a 'luxury' of being retired I guess), but everything gets done........eventually!:giggle::giggle::giggle:

    Keith.
     
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  6. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Full Member

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    Just a small bit of progress.
    Moved away from the roof beams, although thankfully I don’t need as many as first thought - Phew...

    so I thought I’d try the first roof panel and also add the top caping to the wall, which also includes the outside guttering. CF427717-0653-4625-9018-A81B87FCD668.jpeg 13EA9404-F4E0-44AE-8D90-A79ACD5A2658.jpeg

    the roofs will need to be trimmed as for some reason these and the gutterings are much longer than the wall sections, and I don’t see why? It’s also going to throw the spacing a off on the long wall so I need to be mindful of how I trim them and by how much.

    hopefully a little more tomorrow.
     
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  7. Gary

    Gary Will the real Gary please stand up... Staff Member Administrator

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    Wow Andy, this is coming along very nicely ! I like the combination of the double and single sheds. :thumbs::thumbs::thumbs:

    One thing to think about when the model is complete is down pipes at the front of the single shed, against the wall of the double shed. Perhaps a small hole in the wall and a catch drain on the outside of the brick work.
    A small catch drain could be fashioned out of styrene and the down pipe from 2mm diameter styrene rod, which can be bent to shape with pliers. Something like this below...


    Catch drain...


    Cheers, Gary.
     
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  8. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Full Member

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    Hi Gary, already thought of that. It will be internal due to the large joining roof area. (I just haven’t done them yet.)

    but I do like your suggestion. That may be one for the rear end where the two ends join side by side (although they do have a strength buttress over the joint)

    Andy
     
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  9. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Full Member

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    Just one more large roof truss to go.. I’m considering some tie rods between them all... which may double up as a power conduit for lighting... that’s next to look at...

    DAC65895-2834-44D0-8E53-BE5B71CBAEB5.jpeg 4D9726A3-E06F-4550-83D0-77BAEEC27F72.jpeg EDD2EE0E-F2B7-4E51-9601-7D2856BA936D.jpeg 8DE1F165-E5E5-42E7-8667-7C5B298716C1.jpeg

    none of the walls a glued yet and the trusses just balanced in position.
    I’m actually liking the look of this... and wondering, should I leave it open?

    a) so you can see the stock and maybe access it if it needs a “hand from god”
    B) some sheds in the latter days had no roofs?
    See how we go. I may just make the roof removable. I need to look carefully at the parts and instructions if there is anything to cover the joins of each panel as the back road will be 3 panels.

    thoughts? I’m open to suggestions here before I start trimming.
    Andy
     
  10. York Paul

    York Paul Staff Member Moderator

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    I'm not sure how best you could disguise joints between roof panels Andy but maybe have only some of the roof section made removable by adding in a slotted rebate onto the edge of the fixed panels ?
     
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  11. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Full Member

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    I think there may be a thin overlay strip. (Same as the roof caping in thin card)
     
  12. MalcT

    MalcT Full Member

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    Looking good Andy. How about adding some skylights so you can see into the sheds?

    Malc
     
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  13. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Full Member

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    The roof panels have skylights. The last roof truss has been made tonight and the first (single road) roof made up. Need to progress the roof vents tomorrow night.

    I’ve opted on the small single road to glue the roof trusses inside the roof, so it keeps shape and lifts off as one. This may cause an issue with lighting now though. If it does, I’ll just have to print some more and do it again.

    Andy
     
  14. danielb

    danielb Full Member

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    Why not have a plug on the lighting wire so you can lift the roof off, disconnect the plug and no problem?

    That way the lights can stay on the roof trusses. :D
     
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  15. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Full Member

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    Why didn’t I think of that?
    That’s just what I’ve done on the boxfile kit. (Including using copper tape to hide the power runs.
    Thanks Daniel!
     
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  16. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Full Member

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    Been having a rethink about your suggestion. The kit does come with down pipes (not yet fitted) but I may use cocktail sticks pained black.

    I may just place one as per your suggestion though :thumbs:
     
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  17. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Full Member

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    And so the kit build continues...

    The first two roof panels have been completed. After having to email the gent who produced these excellent kits for some help (quick reply too!) to try and locate one of the parts mentioned...
    The long and short of it was there was an extra “panel” for going over roof joins such as this... I hunted high and low on the roofing sheets. Gave up. Emailed John and got the reply it’s on the common panel for the floor...:scratchchin:

    This was partially my error as when I’d printed the kit off I’d placed all the different sections in to those ring binder pouches you get so it kept it all nice and neat. Wall 1, wall 2, wall 3, end walls, roofs, floors etc...
    The floor bag was the last place I thought of looking for a roof panel! Lol.

    Anyway, first ones done and made a start on the first vent. All was well till the last layer which (maybe I’ve not used the correct thickness of card) was far too low over the end Inverted V panels. So I added in some extra card, touched up with the black pen to pad it out a little. Tonight has been an evening out at the mother in laws retirement “do” so no work tonight.

    hopefully more Saturday evening. May then have to look at glueing the walls up next.

    988BE569-33FC-4AB5-8480-E068112ACF5E.jpeg

    Roof section in place. The panel I couldn’t locate was a “print only” sheet so doesn’t show up as a join too much.
    A97F2C85-6335-469D-9F37-86E19FAB9155.jpeg

    203719FD-8CD7-45B8-A4FB-CA482592BEDA.jpeg
    First roof vent complete. Another 4 to build. At least it’s something to hold when you lift the roof off :avatar:

    I think I need to return to these “down pipes and hoppers.:scratchchin:
     
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  18. danielb

    danielb Full Member

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    Nice progress Andy, it's coming along really nicely. :)

    Going back to an earlier question: For joining the pieces together, I use UHU glue - it stinks, and it's stringy, but it doesn't appear to damage the ink anywhere near as easily as PVA would. It can strip colour out if smudged across a printed surface, but so long as you use it sparingly and carefully, it's a better alternative to PVA, in my opinion.

    Meant to mention this before but for some reason it completely slipped my mind.
     
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  19. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Full Member

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    Most of it is pritt-stick - only the strong bonds are PVA.
    Oddly, it doesn’t seem to bother the print as it’s laser printed, so I’ve not seemed to have that kind of issue.

    I wonder if PVA only upsets the liquid inks?
     
  20. Andy_Sollis

    Andy_Sollis Full Member

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    Opted to do the doors this evening. They are all complete, but I’ve only fitted the two at the rear which are closed (and stuck together)

    I half wishing I’d filled this with brickwork but it may pay a dividend later.

    88DC3EC3-435B-400E-8945-927629A9D421.jpeg

    I’m going to leave the other doors until the walls are built and then secure them, otherwise with them being only thin card and paper I can see them getting squashed.
     
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