As you know Toto, Kadees are designed for US outline HO locos and rolling stock. Anything we do in OO is going to be a best fit/workaround. Think that's why there are so many variations in the use of alternative magnets and coupling installations. Definitely a case of whatever works best on your particular layout and rolling stock. That said, think I'm going to swap to Kadee on Latton Fields as well. In for a penny ........................ Ed
In for a few pounds ....... Quite a few. still, must admit it gives operational interest and looks better. Good on you.
Shouldn't be too expensive Toto as I don't have a lot of stock at present. As Latton Fields is 'Modern Image' (whatever that means) I'm running block trains and only need to put Kadees on the end wagons/coaches and locos. I'll can either leave the tension locks on, or use paper clip couplings for wagons within rakes as I have for the 16 ton Mineral Wagons (still awaiting transfers), so only end wagons to do. Just a case of adding the cost of Kadees as well as a decoder when buying any new loco Ed
It's very difficult, I've been resisting this for months now.................... http://www.hattons.co.uk/32705/Bachmann_Branchline_31_677_Class_85_AL5_Bo_Bo_Electric_E3056_in_BR_Blue_with_single_pantograph_/StockDetail.aspx
Sorry for the late reply - and possibly missed the boatr all together, but here's how I overcame the issue, and also overcame issues I was having using EzMate couplings http://p1mrc.com/p1mrc/view_topic.php?id=454&forum_id=15 Paul
Thanks Paul. I'd seen part of you video before, did you use N35 magnets? Great tip using E-Z Mates in Kadee #232 draft boxes to adjust coupling height, previously just seen the use of styrene shims I've looked for E-Z mates before though, and they don't seem easy to get hold of in UK. Ed
Slow progress as family illness has made domestic duties a priority. However, a few buildings I dug out of a box in the garage originally intended for Latton Fields but no longer required. Yard crane and some accessories which came free with (I think) Railway Modeller Annual couple of years ago. Last week I painted the board brown and managed to create a back scene using a picture downloaded from the web and a wall using some Metcalfe Stone Sheets I already had. No additional costs, unless you add a colour ink cartridge for the printer which I needed anyway. (I'm still working on the joins.) Created a base for the engine shed out of card and painted it black. Had to do a few repairs to the shed as one of the main doors and one of the back doors had fallen off. I've also stuck the lamp above the main doors back on, but where the lamp above the notice board on the side and the finial on the rear of the roof have gone is anybody guess. Fits quite snugly but the question is, do I remove it and risk damage when it's stored separately every time I move the plank, or do I stick it 'in situ' which might make cleaning the track inside the shed a bit more difficult. Think I'm going to try painting the track next. Ed
My attempts at painting the track and the beginnings of some sort of ground cover. The track doesn't look as orange as in the picture, think it's due to the camera flash. I bought the coaling stage to give a reason for a wagon to be 'spotted' in front of the engine shed. Took a rather large bit out of the £100 target at £8.20, but I like it. The coal is from Javis at just £1, but I think it's way too big. If you compare the guy's shovel with some of the pieces of coal he'd never be able to pick it up. The wagon uncouples at just the right point....... .. and I've just noticed from the picture that the lamp above the engine sheds doors is hanging off. Time to get the glue out, again. I've 'spotted' both these wagons with the loco (honest guv, I didn't cheat) and the van has to be uncoupled and 'Kadee shuffled' back to the provinder store. Feeling quite chuffed..... it works! Ed
G`day Ed, The plank is coming along nicely. I would suggest you leave the engine shed as removable otherwise cleaning the inside track will be a chore. The oversize coal if it is still loose, could be placed in a cloth and belted with a hammer to create smaller chunks.??? http://www.clickGormo
gormo wrote: I was wondering if that might work Gormo, not sure what Javis use to make this stuff. Could be real coal or maybe coconut shell, suppose the only way to find out is give it a go. Ed
I`m not sure either Ed but if it`s shell it could be touched up with black paint. Just try one little piece and smash it mate.........then you will know. http://www.clickGormo
Did a bit more ground cover and started creating a coal yard last week. I decided I didn't like the Superquick Goods Shed where it was as it's a bit too big, so probably just a loading dock going in it's place. The Superquick Water Tower has gone as well to make way for the coal yard. Think I've nearly blown the £100 budget as I've just bought two lorries (trucks if your outside the UK) and a Ratio weighbridge. Problem is, what started out as a shunting puzzle is turning into a mini layout/diorama Ed PS Tried smashing the coal Gormo, but just dented the workmate. Dunno what it's made of, but it's extremely hard. Managed to sieve it, to get smaller bits.
Fair enough Ed... That coal must be made from Kryptonite....????????.......not to worry. Your layout is looking very good. Two questions.?? 1.....The coal staithes....are they the Peco brand......they have come up quite well and I intend to do some myself......so am interested in how you found them to work with.??? 2....What do you intend to do with the open area at the front of the layout. You seem to have plenty of room for scenery or buildings or both.???? Keep up the good work... http://www.clickGormo
Yup, Peco coal staithes LK-3 Gormo. I rather fancied the Ratio version, but I was trying to keep the cost down and these were cheaper. Not bad once painted and mine look better than in the pictures. Think the camera flash is washing the colours out. Got a loading dock to go in on the left front and the weighbridge on the right front, with some road connecting them up. Trying to keep things at the front fairly low, which is why the Superquick Goods Shed didn't look right as it's quite high. Ed
Thanks Toto. Think I will need some strategically placed trees to cover the joins in the back scene though. Ed