Sliding traverse

Discussion in 'Baseboards' started by Mark4mm, Feb 8, 2021.

  1. Mark4mm

    Mark4mm Full Member

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    I'm planning on build an O gauge micro layout with two tracks, how do I go on about building a sliding traverse.
    Also I need to know how to wire it all up.
    Any help or advice will be most helpful.
     
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  2. Keith M

    Keith M Staff Member Moderator

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    Dundee Paul will be your man for that info, He's built motorised traversers before so will be able to point you in the right direction.
    Keith.
     
  3. jcm@gwr

    jcm@gwr Full Member

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    Try this-

    youtube.com/watch?v=8B3sJbv5C-o&feature=emb_logo

    I can't seem to make the link, but if you type it in, it should work.
     
  4. Mark4mm

    Mark4mm Full Member

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    Thanks Keith I will pm Dundee Paul later.
    Jeff thanks for the link most helpful.:thumbs:
     
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  5. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Have a look at this thread - Toto's Traversers I know its hard going

    Couple of things consider

    Number of tracks in the traverser
    Number of entry / exit roads - if more than 1 does each traverser track have to be able to reach each entry / exit road.

    The first O gauge traverser (the mk 2 subject at the start of Toto's Traverser thread) has 4 tracks, on a 13" wide traverser board. The traverser baseboard is 20" wide, for all tracks to reach the entry exit road the traverser extends beyond the edge of the traverser base board.
    The mk 4 version (later part of the traverser thread), we don't talk about the mk 3, uses 2 x SBR12 500mm linear rails

    [​IMG]

    These are so smooth, with no deflection, and will be used on my future traversers I build.

    Wiring - I'll do the easiest one first

    DCC - yes it really only needs two wires, all tracks wired in parallel and permanently live - each loco is individually controlled via DCC. I would suggest putting some form of end stops to help prevent someone moving the wrong loco (or in the trade referred to as "Toto proofing" :whatever:)

    DC - depends on how you wish to operate the traverser. If someone is at the traverser all the time, then the easiest method is to use a pair of bolts (in the past I've used brass rod and tube) the bolt side is on the entry / exit road, and once aligned the bolt is inserted in to the tube at the side of the traverser track.

    upload_2021-2-9_12-46-20.png

    This ensures only the connected track is live, and can also be used for alignment.

    If the traverser is automated then you will need to use some form of isolation for each traverser track, not too difficult to arange, but still an extra task.

    Paul
     
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  6. Mark4mm

    Mark4mm Full Member

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    Paul thank you for the information and pointing me to Toto's thread.:thumbs:
     
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