Small 50' long low relief corrugated iron shed in HO scale

Today I knocked up a small low relief shed in HO scale to be used on Jack's Jay Dubyew Nth Yard layout. I didn't want a shed that was overwhelming in size, but something that could be used for storage of agricultural products or hardware items. So, I needed a plan. As I don't have a scale rule in HO, I just converted measurements of 3.5mm : 1', into millimeters, ie, 1' = 3.5mm, 2' = 7mm, 3' = 10.5mm and so on. Not that hard really.

I took some ideas from an old issue of the Australian Model Railway Magazine and translated some of the key measurements onto a diagram. I intended to put a facade on the front of the building which in the diagram below, is the tall section on the left hand side of the lower drawing and the stepped section directly below, hiding the pitch of the roof. This is quite common on US industrial/commercial sheds/buildings.



These measurements were translated to some 3mm thick foam core. This is an excellent modelling medium, especially for buildings as it is quite rigid.



These sections were cut out and and test fitted (dry fit, no glue). You will notice small cut-outs on the side of the end walls. This insures that there is no hard square edge below the pitch of the roof.



After the dry fit, I decided to add some windows to break up the starkness of corrugated iron. Two small and one larger window from my box of Tichy Train Group windows were chosen. The backs of these windows were measured up, as the backs have a recess for inserting into the wall structure. The two smaller windows were positioned 6' (21mm) up from the base of the building and the larger window, 3' (10.5mm) up from the base. The windows were then test fitted into the apertures then pulled out and painted dark green.

A third end wall section was cut out as I thought that the roof will need more support in the middle.



A piece of card was measured and cut t size. I allowed for 3mm of overhang on each end and on the front of the shed.



This roof and the shed carcass was then covered in corrugated card (Broad Gauge Bodies HO Scale corrugated card). The corrugated iron (card) was measure at 30mm wide strips and then cut to length. This equates to 8' 6". The strips were over laid on the top edge of the lower strip of iron. The doorway and window openings were measured and cut out before attaching to the walls. Barge boards were measured and cut from scale 2" x 9" timbers and glued to each end. These were painted to match the windows. The whole roof was painted with a single coat of washed out grey.



The large opening on the front is a service door for deliveries. Here I lined the front inside edge (all three sides) with scale 4 x 4 timbers. These were then painted the same colour as the windows. Using the cut out piece of foamcore from the door opening, I glued a piece of corrugated card onto it horizontally to represent a roller door.

The shed walls and roller door was then given one coat of light green, which like the roof is also washed out somewhat to give it a sun scorched weathered look.



The position for the shed on the layout is quite uneven as shown above. I cut up a few lengths of bass wood to form a few piers for the shed to sit on. These were given a wash of brown and then glued to the base of the shed. These will require more weathering.

The shed just needs guttering, down pipes, maybe a sign and plenty of weathering. This then can be bedded into the layout.

Cheers, Gary.

 

Thanks all for the replies. Hopefully throughout the week I can finish detailing and weathering the model. Looks like I may have to take a trip to the hobby shop for some C channel so that I can make up some guttering..!

When I visited the shop a few weeks back, they had a typical US style water tank, I was in two minds whether I should have bought it, but now I'm thinking that it could fit into the scene.

Cheers, Gary.

 

Thanks Pete.

I stand up when I cut and use a Stanley 'snap off blade' knife : http://www.stanleytools.com.au/products/detail/HAND+TOOLS/Knives+_+Blades/Snap-Off++Blade+Knives/SM+Snap+Off+Blade+Knife+-+9+mm .

I had the same issues when using a generic Stanley Retractable Utility Knife or a scapel. I think standing up over the material being cut is the real key to making straight vertical cuts and ofcourse a few passes with the knife, gradually getting deeper.

Cheers, Gary.