St James's Station

Discussion in 'Members Personal Layouts' started by StevePower, Jan 4, 2016.

  1. StevePower

    StevePower Full Member

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    And finally the 9F. Looking lovely and dirty. There's definitely more work to do on it but for now it will do.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  2. pertyowl

    pertyowl Full Member

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    Hi Steve,
    Like your weathered 9F . It would make a good start on your future project the Hejaz Railway.
    Dodgey Roger*
     
  3. pertyowl

    pertyowl Full Member

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  4. Gary

    Gary Wants more time for modelling.... Staff Member Administrator

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    Your wagons and 9F have come up very nicely indeed. Great job. :thumbs:

    Where did you purchase your Railmatch paints from ??

    Cheers, Gary.
     
  5. StevePower

    StevePower Full Member

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    Gary wrote:
    Mate I bought them online from The Engine Shed in the UK a few years ago.
    The big problem with buying stuff from them is their postage is horrendously expensive to Aus.
    On the plus side they do last a long time as once thinned and airbrushed on you don't need very much at all.
     
  6. Gary

    Gary Wants more time for modelling.... Staff Member Administrator

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    AH, ok. So I take it that the paints are acrylics and not enamels ??

    Cheers, Gary.
     
  7. StevePower

    StevePower Full Member

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    Yes the weathering colours are acrylics.
    They also do an enamel clear Matt varnish which is very good for sealing weathering powders.
     
  8. Gary

    Gary Wants more time for modelling.... Staff Member Administrator

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    Thanks Steve. I have heard of The Engine Shed and they have been recommended to me in the past. How did you go about having enamels posted out, was it delivered by courier and not Royal Mail/Aus Post ??

    Cheers, Gary.
     
  9. StevePower

    StevePower Full Member

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    I have a feeling it was Royal Mail (that's why it was so bloody expensive)The qty of enamel paint is so small its not a DGs issue.
     
  10. Toto

    Toto I'm best ignored Staff Member Founder Administrator

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    Neat job of the weathering. I like the brake vans.

    cheers

    toto
     
  11. gormo

    gormo Staff Member Administrator

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    Wow Steve......that is production line weathering and very good too.!!!

    http://www.click:tophat:Gormo
     
  12. StevePower

    StevePower Full Member

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    Thanks Toto.
    I bought a couple of them from Hattons when they were selling the Thomas ones cheap, they are identical to the mainline ones only substantially cheaper. Same tooling you know.
    I will fit red lamps to them and maybe put a guard in the back.
    I also plan to lift the body off and glaze the windows in the ends.
    A little lead weight underneath will help it to sit nicely on the tracks as well I think.
    It's amazing what a few minutes of detailing can do to a RTR model. It just takes courage to lose that pristine look.
     
  13. StevePower

    StevePower Full Member

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    gormo wrote:
    Thanks Gormo. You know when you just get into a groove with a job. I think it really helped going to work for three days so I wasn't trying to do it all in one sitting or worse rush it to get it done and then Bugger it up.
    I'm waiting for my sound decoders to arrive from Digitrains and once I've fitted chips and speakers etc I will weather the locos with powders as well. That way I'm not putting my fingers all over them while doing the electronics work.
     
  14. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Love the weathering Steve, and the 9F ......, I've always had a soft spot for the 9F, 8F, 7F and G2's there's just something about a big frieght loco, none of this pretty boy stuff, I'm big n ugly but I'm damn good at my job, no idea why that might appeal to me :avatar:.

    As for the raspberry Pi and arduino, welcome to the dark side :giggle:

    For the arduino @ 5V supply voltage, max current output for each is 40mA, with a recommended max of 20mA continuous output. With an overall consumption across all the output pins of 200mA.

    Putting a 470R to 1K resistor in series will current limit the led's and still give a decent amount of brightness out, but would recommend keeping the output connected to single LED's.

    To control higher current devices, then a relay board is recommended, the relay requires 72mA to operate, so is powered seperately, and uses a transistor to trigger the relay.

    for example - these are the one,s I have bought for my street lights and main lighting (12V LED strips) - cost £2.49 for a dual channel relay board.

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/161914334390

    These could be used on both Arduino and Raspberry Pi's.

    The Raspberry Pi's voltage regulator can only supply 50mA total, with a recommended max of 16mA per output. If all outputs are being used then only 3mA per output is available, so the above board, using the opto isolation becomes essential.

    There are pro's and con's to each device, but both have an I2C interface, so several can be connected to each other, and the arduinos, used for the hardware control and the Raspberry Pi used as the master controller.

    The way I am using the arduino, is to use an opto isolator, and the arduino DCC libraries, and use them as a DCC accessory decoder, each output having its own DCC accy address.

    Hopefully I've scared you off, but it is relativley easy to program each one, a bread board is worth the investment just have a play.

    Paul
     
  15. gormo

    gormo Staff Member Administrator

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    I was OK for the first two lines of Paul`s response......:confused::confused::confused::confused::confused:

    :avatar:

    http://www.click:tophat:Gormo
     
  16. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    That's an improvement, two lines more than when we first started :avatar:

    It's all a learning curve, unfortunately some curves are verticle.

    :thumbs:

    Paul
     
  17. StevePower

    StevePower Full Member

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    paul_l wrote:
    Ah that would be a linear curve you are speaking of.
    They are always useful in getting straight to the point.
    However a straight line may not always the shortest route,
    Sometimes it is shorter to follow a curve.
    Now that I have suitably confused everyone, myself included I going to go back to watching kittens playing with balls of yarn on YouTube.
     
  18. StevePower

    StevePower Full Member

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    Thanks Paul for the comments and the info about the Arduino.
    If I do decide to go down that road I will certainly be asking your advice. It's a great thing to be able to talk to others and learn from their experiences and mistakes.

    paul_l wrote:
     
  19. paul_l

    paul_l Staff Member Administrator

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    Hi Steve

    One of the bonuses of both the arduino and raspberry pi, is that they are open source, so there is plenty resources available to get you started. The trick is often being able to borrow code from several different sources to get what you want to happen. Purists may baulk at that, but I'm a railway modeller not a programmer.

    A breadboard, few led's, resistors, switches and jumper wires, and you will be set to follow most beginners tutorials to get the feel of the process.

    For the rPi you will be writing script files and running them directly. With the arduinos you write a program or sketch then upload it to the arduino. The arduino reboots and runs the sketch.

    Just let me know when you're ready to start dabbling in the darkside :avatar::avatar:

    Paul
     
  20. StevePower

    StevePower Full Member

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    paul_l wrote:
    Thanks Paul, give me a few months to get my 'Things To Do' list down a bit and then I will tackle the Pie.
     

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